Hell no! Totally different millenia!
We are talking about the Millenia that’s been stuck in DMS since the dawn of time…
Valve lapping is next level, the video shows someone who has some experience in the process, but seems to miss some things that should be done in the standard checks before getting into the lapping. Some things not mentioned in the video could end up hurting the performance of the motor and even send a set of heads into the dumpster. Maybe adding another half dozen videos concerning valve train, cylinder head refreshing, and lapping would give a better body of info for working on cylinder heads.
I wouldn’t recommend the “changing sound” method of lapping valves, alone. I don’t thinks its for a beginner to start with actually.
A method I prefer to use is to ink the mating surface, mark the cleaned valve seat and valve mating surfaces with black sharpie. Then start lapping the valves, pay attention to the method that you use, and the time and pressure that is applied. Only lap mildly for a couple seconds. Then check.
Check the first valve frequently, after a very short time lapping. You are basically having to learn how to do this while you are doing it. Wipe off the compound and look at the sharpie ink on the mating surfaces, both the seat and the valve. You should see where the compound is grinding away the ink, and where it remains. The factory valves will have a 2 and 3 angle cut. The mating surface will be only on 1 of the angles generally in the middle of the valve turn. If there is still sharpie on the the mating surfaces, apply the lapping compound and proceed with lapping again. Taking note of the process, time and pressure. Check the ink frequently, until you get a handle on what the process is doing. Note the total time and pressure that you have applied. For the rest of the valve set, you should stop just a bit short of your expected work flow and check, or even at evey half point remaining. Always pay attention to the mating surface width in additional to the sharpie stripe. You don’t want to widen the mating surface much, if at all. It will degrade how the valve will flow.
When you see the mating surface free of sharpie, then you are done with the lapping on that valve. If you continue, it will sink the valve deeper, widen the mating surface, shortening the other angles, and cause changes in the valve train geometry and uniformity. This will also show if the valve or seat may be so bad that additional work may need to be done.
You will want to keep the depth of the valves close, that is all intake valves should be the a similar depth, and all the exhaust valves should be a similar depth. This can be visualized on the stem end and how closely they line up from a view along the row.
Using this method with inking indicator should produce a consistent and clear signal when you are done with a valve, and help with uniformity.
You mileage may vary.
Jay Johnson
Digital Media chair
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NINE INCH BOLTS – THE DOWNWARD SPIRAL (of the Mazda)
- Gift
- 12+ Volts
- Operating Awfully
- Compressing 200
- Timing Belt Sanctified
- Still Compressing 200 (+/- 30 remix)
- Web Misinformation -> Timing Advancement Overkill
- Pop/Dammit/OfficerHelpImStuck
- Service Manual Love
- You Will Never Leave The Space, Milly!
- Clean Intake Coolant Drowning
- Cold Compression, Increased Variation - Invalid Test Version
- Suffocating Milly Gasped 30 s
- Timing Belt (Broken Block)
OK, that was fun for a minute. But this shows the chronology of events, and how it may seem crazy, but yes I measured spec compression prior to massive failure. My brother said to me when he gave the car to me: it aint right… .holes in the engine… I asked what he meant and he shrugged. Evidently, his mechanic knew that motor was shot, and I believe it was destined to catastrophise regardless.
So while its fun to rip on computer geek for dumping H20 in the intake, the dumpage amounted to about 2 cups IME, most of which pooled in the VRIS intake macaroni complex, to be subsequently slurped out by said computer geek (no I used a vacuum pump).
I believe that rod was damaged to some degree when I got the car, likely from a previous event. I’m sure the espresso in the cylinders when I ripped into there did not help straighten things out one bit. However, I have no idea how much of that liquid fell from the heads when i pulled them off vs was in there before I pulled the heads. Some the cylinders were dry, varying fluid levels in the others.
And one more little detail. I think I measured all 6 cylinders at spec. Maybe I missed one. Seems after 4 perfect cylinders I may have said: I think I can see a pattern here.
When I came back and measured cold but more carefully, cylinder 5 measured much lower than others (160-180), #5 (120). There was another outlier, but it was like 140 or so. Cant remember which.
So this is a more complete explanation of the Chronicles of Mazda, including better details about compression. Hope this makes it more clear why I answered how I did.
Mr. Johnson, I would welcome help with these heads. My instinct says that they are probably pretty good right now, and the less they are molested, the better. I believe that the inconsistencies observed were gasket/rod related. The engine has 115000 miles, valves sounded good to my ear. So I completely agree with you, we don’t want to change seats much at all, just get the scale off there. And while I’m in there, give all a good look to identify what problems may be lurking yet unnoticed. So I’d like to work with you for a bit to accelerate my learning curve, in hopes I may get through this without necessitating that machine shop trip. Is there anything I can do to incentivise your interest? PM? And thanks for the input.
So I loaded a couple of videos I made onto youtube. Yes, I know, its a long way to Hollywood. We’ll just leave it like that. But so far, the video I shared earlier about the valves has been all good. I’m beginning to think that I might actually get the Mazda running real nice.
Here is a video showing me cleaning crud off the valve seats using a dremel tool with brass wire brush…
Here is a video showing my first attempt cleaning valves using a brass wire wheel on a grinder in conjunction with a drill to spin the valve (tape the ends of the valves so that the drill does not damage them in any way) Check out my reaction when I realize how easy that this was…
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So I am pushing forward, attempting to reutilize my heads, cleaning them as much as DMS toolset can, and avoiding changing as much as possible so as to avoid a situation that requires help beyond what is available here.
I have found that I can clean the valves to my satisfaction. Are they perfect? No. Are they better than they were? Most def. Prior to my brass brush work, the lapping handle didn’t stick to them at all. Now it makes a good grip. I knocked most of the scale off the stem part, but where it got close to the valveguide interface, I stopped for fear of damaging the portion of valvestem that glides through the valveguide, resulting in wear and destruction in my valvetrain.
So now a DMS skeptic aka naysayer has stopped by to spout his piece. And you must understand that mine is a love/hate relationship with these sorts. On the one hand, I love the fact that they challenge my thinking and push me toward improved work. On the other, those jerks don’t know what they are talking about! My car will defy the laws of physics upon my command. And why shouldn’t they, I own the parts, so they should conform to my wishes and demands. Right?
Ok, so lets temper the new set of questions I have with my work against the general knowledge set of the DMS collective. If we can’t fix it, we can at least pray to the gods of relativity to override Newton and his oppressive regime.
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Skeptic says: since you have lapped, you have removed some slight amount of metal from valve and seat. But yet you have not cleaned scale to the valveguide point on the valvestem. Then he said: it’ll run. Don’t worry. It’ll run. (laced with sarcasm befitting a tenured court jester)
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Are you going to test those springs? That is entirely logical, even to the man intending to defy all odds.
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What about the freeze plugs? Are you going to remove/inspect/replace? What about cleaning within?
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Are you going to get the rest of that old head gasket crud? Well now, I’ve run the thing through the wash like 40 million times already. I’m reaching a point of diminishing returns. Ive scraped with acrylic, tried scrubbing with some things, its so thin what remains I have to wonder myself it we are just being anal as all hell…Those head gaskets feel pretty thick as they are of felpro variety. I had metioned that they were dual steel previously, No, I was incorrect they are paper felpro type.
- Guides: are you going to measure/check/adjust etc?
While on the one hand, I’m not lookng for the cost of this project to approach infinity. On the other hand, Im not lookng for the utility/cost ratio to approach zero similarly by reaching the bend rod or similar point of zero utilty in an glorious and/or early fashion.
So what does the grand DMS collective have to say. Obviously, you must take all points seriously once they are brought to attention of all, since an oversight can result in calamity. But based on common sense and while taking advantage of the knowledge/history of this Mazda, how do I approach these items? Which are most serious? Which are likely to be in reasonable shape as they stand already?
Thanks in advance…
Rotoloc scotchbrite are your friend for getting rid of the old gasket & cleaning things up. It does a very good job quickly
So by defying the laws of physics, is it going to fly? Sorry I had to. I’m too much of a smart ass not to.
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+1 on the rolock scotchbrite pads. You want clean metal for the head gaskets to bond to.
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Based on previous comments you said your goal was to maximize the life of the engine at as minimal a cost as possible. So from the start there is some conflict.
IMHO definitely clean the valve stems, anything on them is an abrasive to the guide and will lead to wear and alignment issues. I’d also recommend lightly honing the guides to remove scale inside and again to reduce wear. Since you aren’t going to replace the valves and guides do it so the minimum amount of base metal material is removed so the guide isn’t wobbly.
Also regarding the valves, lapping them will change the spacing between the cam lobes and the tappet-cam spacing, be sure to measure and use the appropriate spacers. Also, if the camshafts/tappets show any wear those should be reground as wear affects the timing as well as the amount the valve will open. Again, you can reassemble without a regrind - that will be a cost vs longevity-performanace issue. I assume that the cam bearings are showing no sign of looseness or wear. If so, then more issues to discuss there.
As far as cleaning the head, cleaner is better. I have no idea what it would cost to have it lightly machined to guarantee it is flat and provides a clean flat mating surface. It looks like there are slight depressions that are making it hard to clean, so surfacing would take care of that. Having said that, I’ve put engines back together without having them machined - BUT they were iron heads and I could use a brass rotary wire wheel the heck out of them without fear of removing metal.
Spring testing: we don’t have a spring tester that I know of. Weak springs do impact valve seating. Really weak springs result in valve float, especially at higher RPM’s - so if you tend to rev it could be an issue. I personally have never had a spring go out of spec but then again, except for one engine that Abarth redid for me, I’ve never had to replace a spring. When Abarth redid the whole head they: surfaced head down to absolute minimum to increase compression, oversize valves, way stronger springs, and a radically reground cam (would not idle below 1,800 but redlined at 9,800).
Freeze plugs: I don’t know. I did have a freeze plug spring a leak once and had to replace. The other times they were replaced because I had the engine rebored .040 OS and they tanked the block to clean it and remove crud that builds up on the cooling jacket side that effects heat transfer efficiency, tanking required removing and replacing the plugs.
I guess part of the reason for some of the advice, other than Best Practices, is you’ve got the thing completely apart and out of the car. Everything is easy to do NOW… If the head gasket doesn’t seal properly or valves wear out sooner you’re looking at major major tear-down time. So I think part of what people are recommending is: if you just want to get it up and running - do the minimum and it will work. If you are looking for a long lived engine, the little things are cumulative and only one has to not work out to result in a lot of work and self loathing later (been there, redone that).
So, you’ve got a time vs cost equation vs risk that only you can input the values into the equation. I truly believe people are trying to give you good advice on how they would do it using their values in the equation. That’s my take on it.
Good Luck. Keep on keeping on.
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Is it gonna fly? Hey man, I’ve seen the Darwin Awards. And I know how that one ends. Only question I have is, would the Mazda and its driver benefit from two of those surplus rockets?
So here is my direction and reasoning behind it. Please object loudly if you see a reason it will fail.
1 I will lap each valve lightly for smooth seat that it makes that cool, almost silent metal sound. Then, I plan to install those heads onto the new block, and put it all back together.
- Drive off.
But what about all that feedback? What happened?
Well, here goes:
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Yes, the lapping will make a very small shift in valve closed position. I will check to be sure the valves are fully closed when the lifters are unpressed. I think that due to the hydrolic mechanism in the lifters, the small change will be absorbed. Now I reworked all 24 lifters. They were frozen into a position. Now they actually move.
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I heard that I should change the freeze plugs since they are untested, the engine is out, and they are cheap. Well, I would agree with that, except for this one thing: I don’t believe any are leaking. How many will leak once I am done messing with them?
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There may be a clog somewhere internal. You better take it to machine shop. Well, yes I suppose it is possible. However, each head has been washed in parts washer at least 20 times. That chemical used in that wash is quite potent, and has been all through the passages. I have yest to see large build up resist the power of the wash chemistry. I have seen stains remain. So my belief is that if there was some clog, it got ate up long ago. I hope I am correct.
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You must get all that old gasket off the heads. The new gasket must stick to the metal surface to be airtight. Really? I’m beginning to think this is close, but not quite what the situation really is. First of all, the stains from the previous gasket appear to be oxidation, combustion, gasket material, etc. I have scraped at them with acrylic, and there is only so much I can remove. You can feel the stuff that is there, and its quite thin. The gasket I will be using is felpro type. There are thickened rings around the areas that must be kept isolated from the other areas. This means that the thickened portions of the gasket must get wedged between the block and head tightly enough to remain impervious along the entire length of the raised felpro gasket thickenedd lines. A bit of very thin extra material seems to me would only contribute to the density of what is squeezed in there. The biggest danger to this seal IMO is that I might do something to make it uneven. I don’t want to take that risk. So no scrubbing. No nothing. Its been cleaned in parts washer many times. There are still stains. But I believe it is flat enough. I am gonna throw the dice.
Springs- hopefully they are not sprung
Guides- feel good to me, but my opinion is again, the less I mess with them the better.
So I am off to the races. Hopefully this works out.
I’m largely with you, up to #4. Surface cleanliness is extremely important on the head gasket/deck areas. If you could NOT feel the blemishes, I would be less apt to say anything, but truly, the deck area MUST be clean and well-surfaced for longevity. Many people don’t realize that this area, especially on a multi-metal setup (i.e. iron block, aluminum head) sees quite a lot of movement due to different thermal expansion rates, among other factors. Here’s some info from Fel-Pro about finishes. All that aside, based on the photos, if you put it back together, it will likely work peachy, and might even last forever, but I think you need to use the roloc scotchbrite. It is what I would do, and how I would advise others (students, friends, family, DMSers, obviously…)
I have not seen that you have measured the heads for flatness, either, other than the granite block test. I cannot recommend highly enough the 6-way (minimum) straight-edge test, as illustrated on the fel-pro link, and here:
Final point of wonder: have you done the “wobble test” on the valves/guides? I expect you’ll find they’re good (enough), but it’s a quick way to reveal glaring problems. More info on proper measurements.
Otherwise, I think you’re spot on. If the springs are not obviously off square, broken, weak, etc. and compare well between them, I wouldn’t worry.
There could be a clog in the cooling or oil passages (check these with a jet of carb cleaner before re-assembly–you should do that anyway to ensure cleanliness) but it’s not really worth tank time, to me.
Ditto on freeze plugs. Unless you’re seeing corrosion elsewhere in the water passages, I would leave well enough alone.
It’s highly likely on this engine that the lapping will cause small enough changes that good lifters will be able to compensate. Usually even cutting the seats a bit will be within lifter’s capabilities, in my experience.
Keep up the good work!
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My answer to your extremely well written post, @jast:
We will see how well this happens to work.
So now, here is some additional updates:
I ordered transmission kit, the super deluxe with all the steel plates and everything. for complete rebuild. it was only $140. Not sure I’ll go there, but I wanna have it if we decide its needed.
Lapping going well so far. I should be building engine before too long.
Anyone up for building, let me know…
One of my great failings, is a propensity for stating the obvious, so here goes:
You keep asking for advice, then ignoring it. Clearly you need advice, since you’ve been working on the car a long long time, to date with no happy result. Perhaps you might consider changing tactics…
Just saying brother…
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I am not a fan of using sand paper, and cannot recommend it, but I’ve known folks who do.
I think you’re waaay too worried about material removal, though. Not that it’s a bad thing. But don’t let that fear get in your way.
I do not 100% agree with everything presented, but here’s a decent video of the goal with block deck and cylinder head gasket surfaces.
Although this is an “in the car” head gasket replacement, the customer expects this engine to last tens of thousands of miles, just like it did the first time. This is how the surfaces should look, and the tools of choice in the industry for this job.
Before anyone asks, I am not a fan of straight line hone marks, such as those left behind after the scotchbrite pad scrubbing in the video. Circular is much better. But really, it’s kind of nit-picky. Plenty of colleagues think straight line finishes are fine…
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Mr T, I think things are really much more a matter of perspective in regards to the conclusions you have drawn from this exchange of information and ideas. You see, I view this exchange quite differenlty, so lets talk about that, because I think that this exchange could not be going in a more positive direction for myself, the auto experts, and makerspace as a non-=profit organization.
So I am a man who is rebuilding an entire engine and all supporting components here at DMS, I have never done such a thing before in my life, however, I am proceeding with confidence and headed forward with such a productive and advantageous positioning, and this is due wholly as a result of our wonderful idea/information exchange. How delightful for me, the experts, and the other makers interested in maybe doing something similar later on, as this thread will be available for eternity, and will prove to be a wonderful reference.
The tone adopted was one where I document my progress, hopefully with pictures and videos, and list out my questions/concerns. Then I get an offering of ideas and suggestions from true experts in the field. Now of course, it would make no sense for me to do all of the solutions, as I need only one effective one for each problem that I present. So perhaps this is why you developed the sense that I was rejecting solutions of experts. I was able to cherry pick from a set of expert solutions the solution most appropriate for my specific case.
You may notice that through the chain, as I ask questions and get multiple solutions, the soln I select and employ is documented here and shows that the concern was addressed, and I try to demonstrate the effectiveness of the solution with video to maximize the benefit of our collective efforts for all who may read this. This is the subtlety that separates this wonderful exchange from a hypothetical exchange containing the elements you signaled a concern about.
I could not be more pleased with DMS automotive, the expert staff (comprised of members, elected by the members) maintaining DMS in general, the experts helping me both online and in person, the encyclopedic toolset I have access to to fix any and all auto problems, i have encountered, and the tone we adopt as an exxtended family of makers, both here online, and also in our efforts to extend our excellence to all makers at the space. Keep up the great work, all! And I’ll try to keep up with the never ending progress here in Carrollton. I feel certain that the Mazda will work hard to test our resolve, and I also have full confidence that the same Mazda will reward me with a beautifully running, fuel efficient maker-mobile for years to come…
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To tranny or not to tranny, that is the question.
It took me some time to remove the transmission/engine out of the Mazda. To me, this was a lot of work. There were countless connections. Some were electrical, some were coolant, and there were also fuel lines and lines containing nothing at all. Per Murphy, the majority of the connection points on the engine were made in the back of the engine, and down low, with the most difficult to connect/disconnect located in the hardest to reach places. of course! why would it be any other way? ever?!?
And I have also come to learn that putting these connections back to the right place it was connected originally connected is a fair to high importance task. It seems that most, possibly even all, systems only function when they are hooked up properly. Not that I would know a whole lot about this, but I think it may even be possible to break certain components in certain systems by introducing incorrect fluid or gas type into their operating components. As a random example, I hear that coolant is not recommended as an aid for the air intake. It does not have an appropriate cooling effect when used in this capacity, and can shorten engine life.
So now back to our original question, the one about trannies. Since we will be talking about the type of tranny that changes ratios of rotational force within a gear-box type device, we will be avoiding discussion of trannies that change other things for other reasons. So I would like to further limit this tranny discussion to that of the 01 Mazda Millenia 2.5L Automatic. And even that is not limiting enough, as apparently, this vehicle had two types of trannies used for the automatics manufactured that year. As silly as it seems, you cannot infer which tranny my car has from its VIN. I tried. Evidently auto manufacturers are not required to embed tranny model info in their VINs, and while some manufacturers did regardless, Mazda did not in this case. So, per considerable digging the service manual, and eventually finding and closely examining drawings containing the shape of the transmission casing, I was able to infer that mine is model: GF4A-EL. Additional specifics about my Milly is that I have two tone base model 2.5L KL engine, non-supercharged, and apparently mine has all possible options that were factory configurable, which is nice. Sadly, Bluetooth and self driving mode were not within that set of options.
Back on point: I clocked about 300 miles on this car after it was given to me before it entered self-destruct sequence. It has not gone a single mile on its own monition since. So I have been unable to do any transmission testing, so all I know about it is that all four gears worked, reversed worked, and that it seemed to shift a bit hard from gear to gear.
I took off the bottom panel this morning and drained fluid. The fluid was red, but had a blackish tint. Minimal metal shavings were evident. I did not see any magnets at first, but there were these weird looking donuts built into the bottom of the oil pan. Very odd indeed. Also, I noticed that not much fluid came out. Some if it came out when I removed the torque converter about a week ago. But even so, in my estimation, there was not nearly enough fluid that came out of this tranny.
So I did see some interesting information when I looked at the service manual. For one thing, the testing that a service technician should perform on this transmission gets performed with the engine running. Since I cannot do that until I put the thing back into the car, I have to make a judgement call: to rebuild, or not to rebuild. That is the question.
Another interesting manual observation indicates that the color of the fluid being red with some black means that the fluid is aged. However, it warned that a burned smell present was a much more serious condition. There was no burned smell present that anyone observed who looked at this with me. We are quite certain that although we do see black, the smell is not part of the equation.
I also looked at the troubleshooting portion of the service manual dealing with the hard shifting. Low fluid was the first possible cause item in the list. All of the rest of the items in the list were very serious sounding to me. They all spelled transmission rebuild to me. They said things like transmission worn. Ouch! I like low fluid much better.
And finally, this observation: I replaced the filter, then started to put the bottom oil pan back on the transmission. But before I actually put it on, I decided to run it through the parts wash, which I have learned is a great play every time. It never hurts the part or the engine to put a clean part back on. So I sprayed this oil pan down. And when I finished, I noticed that the two donuts on the bottom of the oil pan were not donuts at all. In fact they had very sharp edges, just like magnets would be expected to have. As it turns out, there were two extremely strong, donut shaped with orthogonal edges, magnets adorning the bottom of my transmission oil pan. They were so covered in metal shavings that the donuts had evidently risen in the oven and developed rounded edges. This metal is now in the parts wash. How often does this wash material get cycled?
So this is my question for the experts: You have the same information that I do now about the transmission. I have the rebuild kit on its way in the mail… It was only $140. I would like to put a working transmission back into this car. As much as can be, I would like to avoid putting the transmission back into the car, getting everything working on the engine, then discovering that it all has to come back out because the transmission has a major issue.
So even though I cannot test with the engine running, I do have the tranny out with fluid drained and I’m completely open to looking inside if anyone around here is expert enough to give me a certain answer about whether or not this transmission is service eminent or good to go for a good long while. This question is probably amongst the most important posed here in this thread. In fact, I believe it is the most important. Anyone got a strong feel about this topic? Experts??
Here is a pic I took when I had the cover off the bottom: (and yes I’m willing to take it, or any other panels off if expert needs, there is no fluid in there now)
Not an expert, but I’ll toss in my limited two cents. As far as the color of your transmission fluid, your basing your logic on the service manual. The service manual is based off the factory recommended fluids. Do you know these are the fluids that were in the transmission when you drained it? If you drain the fluid from my RX-8 I can guarantee it will be red. How? I replaced the factory fluids with redline shockproof. Personally I would paying more attention to the black. Where is that coming from? Is it a coating on a part coming off or is your transmission getting so hot it’s burning something?
To fully rebuild or not? Your description of enough metal to make magnets look like doughnuts seems to indicate yes to me. Future hindsight will show you one of three paths. You didn’t and at a future time it’s shot and unfixable. You didn’t and a future time you have to redrop everything to rebuild it anyways. You did the work now and grateful you don’t need to worry about the other two paths for quite sometime.
Again, not an expert, but that’s how I look at things when modding my 8.
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While I am not an expert, nor did I stay at a Holliday Inn, I would rebuild it. Also be absolutely sure you have the right rebuild kit. There are several kits. There is the kit with the clutches & then the master kit. The master kit will have the clutches & steels. Also it is likely that the kit doesn’t have all of the parts. I have run into ones that did not have the bearing/ bushings. Also some torque converters have O-rings, I found this out the hard way. I’ve said this before that Transtar is a local source for parts.
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Yes original fluid. This car suffered from lack of maintenance and sitting up. It is 16 years old with 115k miles. No one would even think of messing with that fluid till after 50k, and since I know the prior owner, I am quite certain not much was done after that.
The master kit I purchased came it today, and while I have not seen it yet as I am at space, here is the ad from ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/371405448583?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
So where is my encyclopedic yet simple to follow rebuild guidance that hits all the important concepts and avoids minutia? (just in case I elect to go down this path)
You can order the book from ATSG. If you want one sooner & a hard copy instead of a PDF, you can swing by Transtar. They carry the book.
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Few more questions:
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How can I be certain that this transmission needs rebuilding? I did not smell the burned smell the service guide warns about. I do not want to take the risks associated with transmission rebuilding when it is unnecessary. How can we know for sure? Who knows how to tell when the tranny is off the car and openable? There should be some specific things we can look at and verify good/bad and why, and these items we should be able to post on here and review with all experts. I’m not one to launch into an auto trans rebuild without solid data to support, that seems a bit crazy to me IMO.
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ATSG did not seem to cover Mazda auto trannys specifically. So is there a general book you are referring to?
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Just exactly how crazy is the notion of a completely inexperienced dude fiddling with an attempted auto transmission rebuild? Now I could see inside the transmission just a bit and what I saw appeared to be a stack of metal plates basically. This seems somewhat simple to rebuild. Where is the complexity? What is it that makes the black art of auto tranny work mysterious and secretive?
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Where is that adventurous soul that bit off the giant challenge of auto transmission rebuild and overcame all odds to successfully rebuild one. Or even wasn’t able to get it done, that is interesting to me as well. What happened? Why? One friend of mine at space suggested that keeping the ordering of the plates might be hard. Well, that doesn’t seem all that hard to me. I think I could do that. So what is it that is excessively challenging here? Is it the locating of correct model specific information? Is there a set of rules that professionals follow that makes it a black art to those of us who know not?
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Is there a brave soul around here who knows that they could rebuild this thing, and is willing to serve as a consultant to occasionally stop by and mentor me? I’m not rich, but I might be able to raid the piggybank for some expert assistance. Anyone?