How to Build an Engine

Automotive
#1

I’ve never done it. But I’m gonna do it.

I’ll play it like I know what I’m doing, but I’ll secretly ask a few questons here on talk. Don’t tell anyone that the mazda is my first engine rebuild…

Here goes:

  1. Do I need new head bolts? If so, where can I get some good ones cheap and fast? New Ford short block comes wednesday.

  2. What about the camshaft bolts? And those thingies that hold the cams in? I reuse the thingies?

  3. Can I use the oil in squirt cans I saw in metalshop to lube my bolts when torqueing them?

  4. The oil pan was jb welded on to old block. How to get it off.

  5. I read that I need polished clean surface under old valve train blocks to get them to seal right with new head gaskets of dual steel type. How to clean/prep this?

  6. No gasket betwixt engine and tranny? Really?

  7. How to support new block during construction?

  8. How to know if my lifters are still good?

  9. Sunce it IA new short block, it will basically be new engine, not rebuild. What additional considerations will help ensure a Japanese long engine life?

#2

Depends on the engine.

Caps. Yes, you reuse them. I’ve never heard of a need to replace the bolts.

If you mean the ones in the machine shop, they contain different things. You might use 3-in-One. Personally I don’t lubricate bolts I’m torquing, but someone will probably correct me. If it’s an aluminum block you might need to use anti-seize.

Heat. I’ve never done it, it might take Mapp gas.

Roloc? Just a thought.

Really. There’s nothing there to leak.

Engine stand.

Not sure. I presume they’re hydraulic. If the engine oil was changed you’re probably OK. Someone will know.

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#3

Hydraulic lifters clatter when they get old and the oil passages get narrowed. There are some writeups on them out on Miata.net - check the garage section.

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#4

There is a different torque for lubricated bolts vs dry bolts. Also some head bolts I have specced thread sealant. So look in your book for details.

You may have to use an air-hammer/chisel to get the pan off if the heat doesn’t work. However be prepared to replace the pan unless you are gingerly with it getting off.

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#5

Ahhhh. The wealth of answers pours forth from the makers… thanks all!

New questions:

Valves. I’d like to do this engine correctly the first time so that I get the long-lasting Mazda the Japanese are famous for making. What should I do to ensure the valves are properly configured. Are there seals and/or other equipment I need to order?

I checked out the head bolts, and they are Torque To Yield stretch variety holding aluminum block with 90 degree 3rd step. The gasket is dual steel. My instinct is that the cheap bolts are fine. But there are a lot of pricey options too. Anyone have a good reason to stay away from the cheapies?

#6

Step one for the hope of any positive outcome :

Source the factory service manual for the car / engine - relying on the “factual” info on YouTube or the “internet” is not the way to go.

For example - to replace or reuse the head bolts and torquing them…the service manual will dictate what the manufacturer recommends. Some bolts are installed dry some are oiled. Most heads on most engines like yours tend to have a torque sequence and an amount of torque - often in steps / angle of rotation etc.

“WInging it” justmeans you’re going to need a tow truck sooner than later.

“cheap” is never a good way to go.
“less expensive” actual OEM is the smart way to go (but it is your car).

Ask yourself how many times you want to do the same job twice (due to part failure) and (most) then the “cheap” parts are rarely a bargain.

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#7

I would either go ARP studs for aftermarket or OEM for bolts and replace the used ones. Torque to yield are ones you really don’t want to reuse.

Town North Mazda in Richardson is the best parts counter in the area and where most of the local Miata geeks go.

Chilton manuals are good and will show you the pattern and values for torquing down the bolts. I’ve used them before on replacing heads.

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#8

ARP or RaceWare are great stud kits but overkill for that Mazda.

I’d not a fan of Chilton for any car - but Raymond is correct with the torque patterns and values but for detailed specifics - the factory authorized service manual is the way to go.

You might find the paper one at a local Half Priced Books store.
or for the anti paper folks :
http://mazdamanuals.info/mazda-millenia-pdf-manuals-online-download-links/

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#9

They are overkill, but the point is that I’d either go overkill or OEM so you know what you are getting. I’ve seen enough junk at AutoZone and O’Reilly’s that for something that critical I’d spend the money to know what I’m getting.

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#10

The valve stem seals often come with the head gasket set (some do not)
Not sure if the DMS has a valve spring compressor tool or a lapping tool. This is where you might get an estimate from a place called a “machine shop” to disassemble the heads, vat (thoroughly clean) the heads, valves, pressure check them for cracks, and perform a “typical valve job”.

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#11

I agree with having head professionally done. They’ll check mating surface for flatness and advise if surfacing needed. Alum heads are notorious for not staying quite flat. New valve seats and valves lapped in guarantees tight seals. The chem cleaning they do removes gunk and oxides on the inside passages and will ensure good and even as designed heat transfer.

You’ve got a job ahead of you, a whole lot “Oh S’s” and WTF’s". But when you finally turn the key, it cranks a bit, then catches and purrs like a tomcat in a milkhouse, the satisfaction is great.

I wished I had something like the Space around when did my first one (learned that the little dot on connecting rods DID have significance, fortunately hand rotated crank before destroying the block) - not just for tools but for knowledge available … like “Dude, ah, find out what direction you install that dot”

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#12

I’d call cylinder heads international off 180 in Grand Prairie. They will completely rebuild the heads to spec. I have taken a cracked head to them & they didn’t care, where as City motor did.

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#13

I’m old but not “that” old …but I haven’t heard the term “milkhouse”…is it a Texas term?

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#14

Midwest, dairy farmers or farmers that had cold sheds for milk, etc. I’m one generation away from the farm.

My dad said growing up on a farm was the biggest inspiration to go college he ever had.

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#15

Thanks for clearing that up - my military mind was leaning towards a massage parlour

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#16

I can rock with massage parlour, just so long as the thing purrs.

While I was hoping for easy and quick, I’ll err on the side of meticulous due to investment made in this project. Last thing I need is bone head oversight that causes damage early. I’ve done that one enough times in my life already. The funding and parts are available for the mazdabeast. Let’s get it right so that one day, in the not so distant future, the beast may one day actually leave the safety of the DMS parking lot and venture out into toll ways where it can cost me even more…

Thanks all for the insight. I’ll get remaining parts on order, and get up there to figure out the best play with the heads…

#17

Please post the list of parts you are buying and the brand names and where you are sourcing them from - this may be helpful for other folks in automotive

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#18

No gasket is correct, however there is a rear crank seal and a torque converter seal
By the way - most (again not all, but most) folks remove the hardware that secures the torque converter to the drive plate before separating the trans from the engine. This is something you will want to do BEFORE mating them as well.

These steps and many others are covered in the Service Manual for your model.

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#19

Leave it to me to follow the gangsta method: Do it, then learn from that mistake.

Thanks for heads up, I need all the help I can get.

Am I to understand that the torque converter (rock auto ordered) is not suspended in fluid? It has fluid inside, not out?

Also, I am operating on assumption tranny good. All four gears worked, and reverse. It did shift a bit hard for stock though. Hence, new torque converter. Any suggestions I could observe that may keep me from having to pull everything out again to sevice tranny?

#20

Right.
Here’s a decent animation, with a guy who sounds really smart explaining it (complete with fake physics). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5G2zQ_3xTc
Here’s a video with more practical explanations, but a less intelligent sounding host. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pTfipsejqS0
No offense to Eric the Car Guy. He makes generally good videos.

BTW, Gangsta. You’re doing it wrong, if you’re learning from your mistakes. Unless you’re learning recidivism.

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