If you’re interested in any of these, please reply:
As part of my 1 hour, I would like to teach a class. Please help me decide what to teach.
If you know of others that are interested in any of the above, please let me know.
Also, I’d be happy to teach an advanced class in any of the above if there’s enough interest.
Photoshop please. Do you have any experience in photographing small items? I really need to improve my jewelry photography.
I’d be interested in pre-Dummies Arduino although I don’t know if it’s possible to be as remedial as I would need. 
Photography of products up to 32 inches in size against a pure white background as inexpensively as possible.
Thanks.
I would be interested in the pre dummies class as well. I know one more that would join. That’s 3 right there!
Sounds like you’re interested in using a light tent? I’ve never done this before, but I’ve done a little diorama photography, so I imagine a lot of the same techniques apply - mostly lighting and adjusting exposure. I don’t have a light tent, but we could create a makeshift one if there’s not one available at the space. Here’s what an agenda may look like for that kind of class:
We would need these supplies:
@Jerry 32 inches may not fit in most light boxes, but I could give you some ideas on how to accomplish this.
What do you mean by pre-Dummies Arduino - maybe something like this?:
I have two or three Arduinos I can bring, but if the space has some, I’d rather use those.
Since there are two competing classes, I’ll teach the one with the most interest, so spread the word. I’ll try to teach the other class at a later date, but I don’t want to make any promises.
How do you deal with depth of field? I’m using a tiny aperture, a LONG lens, and standing way back … and still not getting enough depth of field. Those pesky laws of physics seem to be interfering … (OK, maybe just the laws of optics).
Get an old large format camera and use f/64 with a suitably long exposure. Get the film developed and a drum scan.
“Depth-of-field” (DOF) can be ambiguous, but I assume you want a larger depth of field (more things in focus). For this, you need a tiny aperture (iris closed as small as you can get, “highest” aperture number like f/64). To get a good exposure with such small aperture, you’d need massive light sources. I used three sources when I did diorama: halogen work light from home depot, 100W lightbulb, a flash, and some light diffusers and bounces. Even these were sometimes not enough requiring long exposures. Also, with three different kinds of light, getting good white balance can be tricky (try the styrofoam cup trick). If you still can’t get enough DOF, you may look into focus stacking – and the other topics on that awesome website!
As for using a long lens and standing way back, are you trying to control barrel distortion? Just realize barrel distortion and DOF can be controlled separately (though some combinations can be difficult).
Like Ansel Adams and Group f/64! 
I’m interested in
#5
#3
#2
That sounds great! I think I read somewhere they have a few at DMS??? Ill have to check around to see. I’m quite new to the facility.
I’d sign up for that class in a heartbeat though!!
@Jerry and @John_Marlow there’s a Digital photography 101 class next Wednesday and a Photoshop (photo editing) course that Friday.
Are you looking for shallow DOF (blurry background aka bokeh) or deep DOF (longer field of focus). For shallow DOF you want the widest f-stop (or enough for your liking) depending on your lens you can go as low as f1.2. The longer lens allows for compression of your image and background (another subject).
A usual rule of thumb for hand held photography is that you want to keep your shutter speed daster than your focul length. If you are shooting 100mm lens shutter speed should be above 100 (to decress motion blur and such). If you are using a tri-pod and static subjects (jewlery) you can get away with using a longer exposure to compensate for low power lighting.
For less grainy photos you want a low ISO 100-200. the higher the ISO the more grain/static you introduce to uour photo.
For shallow DOF
Hypothetical setting for shooting a ring on a black/white background, inside, 100mm - f1.2 - one light source with bounce card, then dial in my shutter speed for exposure.
When is the photoshop class on Fri? and will I need a laptop? Mine won’t seem to stay on for very long
Ah the 20th, not the 13th,
I am looking for deep DOF. I have only zoom-telephoto lenses, and at 300mm I am able to use an f29 aperture. At a shooting distance of 2m, I get a theoretical depth of field of 6 cm. In reality I’m getting a bit less (unless I do focus stacking, which is a pain). Of course, as I stand back further I get more DOF but illumination becomes a bigger problem.
In theory I can push it to ISO 25600, but since it’s not a D3 I’m of course seeing some noise. I’d love to shoot at ISO 100 but my (poor) lighting forces me to shoot around 1200. Not my first choice, but better than nothing.