I love the way the grain directions contribute to the image.
thank you. That is a big part of the design phase. Just remember to do the resize of .005" before you rotate it in order to keep the sizes correct for a good fit. cheers!
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this is a 1976 Nishijin model B that I got from @Julie-Harris. Took it a apart, cleaned it and reconnected a few things. With a little help from the vector section of talk I was able to even get the lights working!
Here’s a video:
Here’s a video:
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Multicam is my thing these days but I’ve always been working on relatively large, imprecise stuff like better-than-IKEA plywood shop furniture.
Today I did my first work with actual hardwood and I couldn’t be happier with how it turned out.
These are mahogany and maple driver wheels for a locomotive that was published in Woodsmith magazine a number of years ago.
The plans are okay but are missing dimensions, angles, etc. Using screen calipers, eyeballs and an obvious pentagon in the design, I drew it up in Solidworks and cut my first parts today.
This is a longer-term project. I have much more fun kayak stuff going on, and the look in my daughter’s eyes when I mentioned it (a kayak for her) solidified that I must be done with those before Christmas.
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Been up to trying a few new things in the kitchen, mostly makin bacon (the lean British type) and bread! Here is this weekends delicious success. Going to start experimenting with smoked goodies soon.
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Nice work. Can you explain the part about the .005” resize?
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this is the difference between cnc work and laser work. With CNC the profile is generally cut from the edge of the endmill. So even if I cut with a 1/2" bit, a 1" circle, both internal and external are 1". With a laser, the profile is cut to the center of the laser beam. A beam which has a kerf of .002" to .003". So if I cut a one inch circle the hole is 1" but the woodcut that falls out is under 1". So if we tried making a plug to fill the hole, we can’t cut a 1" circle. We already did that and the plug is undersized.
we cut a new internal circle a tad larger to fill the hole, i.e. taking the kerf into account, Making the ‘plug’ .005" larger seems to work for a very good fit in most cases. It may vary based on how in focus the beam is.
I the original message, I suggest making the ‘plug’ .005 in both the x and y axis before rotating. Just seems to work better. Cheers!
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Thanks for the clear description. Appreciate it!
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Wowowowowowo!!!
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They look great but are they designed to be protective or just for laughs? Do you wear them over a protective mask?
Both, they have cloth covered vents so they work the same as a cloth face mask.
Nick, when things settle down would you be interested in showing how you take a drawing and convert it something you could cut on the laser (veneers of course) and make some kind of marquetry? Perhaps a short online class and then maybe some kind of in person demonstration?
As you know I have a lot of 2 ply veneers we could utilize for the purpose.
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Yes once we fully open I’d be happy to
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That’s badass!
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Cell phone cord holders - keep your charging cord from falling on the floor when you’re not using it. 1/4" steel plate makes them heavy enough to stay put. Cork bottom keeps it from scratching.
My first project with the dynatorch, and still working on my TIG skills. Higher amperage next time. My welds are garbage, so I’m going to try again.
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Those are the beefiest cable holders you’ll ever see. If you want to be real extra on the next batch you could powder coat them.
Not sure if that one will be mine or my daughters.
