Show and Tell May 2021

The thermistor on my Prusa went out. Break in the line somewhere and while I wait for a replacement to ship I’m going to try to actually finish painting all the towers I’ve printed!

Another dice tower, mix of airbrushing and brush painting on this one.

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A small recycling project for the front hallway - a hanger for our masks.

I used some reclaimed leather to line a drawer from a discarded cheapie art supply case and mounted on some ceramic cabinet knobs from a ReUse store. It’s very cottage chic. :slight_smile:

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I occasionally do decorative work for a custom door manufacturer who works in the high end residential space. Just finished six 25.5"x28.5"x1-3/16 thick raised panels that are for the two 3’x9’ entry doors of a new home.

There are 4 of the top design for the top & middle spaces plus 2 of the bottom design for the lowest spaces.

Going off topic, as I pushed the full 50 gallon barrel to the dumpster I had to wonder: at these wood prices, is it still sawdust or just short cut-offs!

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My Prusa thermister line broke as well, several months ago. The reason: they used solid (not stranded) wire from the controller to the thermister. Metal fatigue took its toll and the wire broke about half way between head and controller box.

I recommend running new twisted wire all the way from the box to the head. The Adafruit 30awg silicone coated multi-strand wire is nice and flexible.

I did a staggered cut on the thermister lead wire pair a couple inches from the head and soldered in new wire from that point (used heat shrink tubing, too).

It’s pretty easy to remove the few zipties and unwrap the wire shroud to gain access to the wire bundle. Splicing in removes the need to get into the head plastic parts to replace the whole thing.

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Thanks man, I’ll give that a go! I did already order a replacement part though, but if it’s also a solid wire I expect the same thing will happen again :frowning:

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Vise stop for my Sherline mill. For multiple parts I can set either the body, the 1/4" pin or the 1/8" pin against the work and have a repeatable position. (OK, for you machinists, yes - I know this isn’t über precise but it should be with a few thousandths). Both sides of the vise are tapped so it can be used on either side.

This is adapted from the photographs on Dave Hylands website. I added the 1/8" pin because many of my parts are too small to use the 1/4" pin.

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WHO says that isn’t precise? We use something similar (and often less sophisticated all the time. Run your first part, take your measurements, make your adjustments to your work offset - and you’re ready to run 10’s of thousands of production parts. Cheers!

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Agree. As long as it doesn’t move between parts and you locate against it, that’s pretty much how locators work in tooling. Should get consistent under .001"< locating, rest is machine and tool run-out.

Under things that could impact it: how consistently you tighten the vise or hold downs. Places where I worked had multiple preset torque wrenches for each pass and specified the sequence to help squeeze out every bit of process variability. .0002" here and there adds up.

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I designed and made this eyeglass holder. I used a CNC router to cut the maple base and the top. I combined Epoxy resin and Rolie blue pigment for the base top. Two coats of Osmo oil was used as a finish.


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Very cool. Did you intentionally leave them by the lasers?

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This is my first finished glazed piece and I am so in love with it! I used Amaco Potter’s Choice Blue Midnight. The pictures really don’t do her justice.

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are these cnc or hand carved?

CNC and more characters

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Made a pair of octopus earrings for the boss. I designed the main shape in Fusion 360’s Form Mode. They were 3d printed in castable resin. And, lastly they were cast in sterling silver via a lost wax process during one of Jewelry Committee’s casting labs. This was the second time I’ve casted an object - the first being the casting lab from the previous month. Needlessly to say lots of help and advice was had specifically from Johnny B, Chris M, and Erick M.

Edit: per @John_Marlow comment, here’s how they cast (before and after cleaning)

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The pictures don’t do these justice. They’re simply gorgeous. We were all just so excited at how beautifully they cast and turned out!

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love the style and design of it as well. Very abstract/art deco feel, well done.

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What a great weekend. And the weather was perfect!
I meet with several of my friend this weekend for a pottery pit fire. When we got to the farm we got out some wine and discussed our plan. How big did the pit need to be, how deep, how were we going to vent under the pots, did we want to create a reduction atmosphere or not, did we want to sagger or just put the pots in the fire? After a couple glasses of wine we had a plan and got the tractor going.
We set up prep tables under the porch to prepare the pieces to fire. Everyone brought different material and chemicals to share.


After burning about 4 hours we covered the pit and the coals continued firing overnight.
With the lock down it had been a crazy long time since we had been able to art together. We then enjoyed more wine and some amazing food. Sat out under the stars and visited until we got tired.
The next morning we had a big breakfast then went out for the big reveal with several horse as our cheerleaders.


Some pots were sagger some were not.


(upload://33HM9FYlOAKqrH8sjYMT1bkJSVV.jpeg) !(upload://vsZM236HYqqTehBFgs97r69iRjf.jpeg) .

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What a great event. Awesome that you shared it with us. The best part about DMS is the making!

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