You buy HVAC cabin air filters from Amazon. They cost around 20 bucks. That’s a non-essential right there.
“Induction system cleaning” is a bunch of BS. Buy yourself a engine intake air filter, again from Amazon, and replace it yourself. The longest part of the process will be the YouTube video you watch to learn how to get the gottverdamt air filter housing open…
“Fuel Injector Cleaning” is fuel additive potion they sell you because you can’t tell if it actually did anything. EDIT: What it’s actually made of is a special oil they refine from a very special kind of snake found only in Madagascar. And if you believe that, then I’ve got a bridge I’d like to sell you…
Speaking from the pulpit: “Leave your power steering and rear diff the hell alone.” The only reason my diff leaks now is because some asshat opened it up at one of these lube shacks for a “complementary inspection” like yours. You ever seen differential lube? It’s thick stuff and doesn’t wear out. You won’t own that car long enough to worry about wear on the diff. Power steering is a hydraulic system. Hydraulic oil isn’t for cleaning or lubricating, it’s for pushing. The only reason to jack with it is if it is leaking (just top it up and find the leak) or looks creamy (water got in).
Your tranny is a cloudy answer: Nowadays manufacturers make a lot of sealed transmissions that really aren’t designed to require service regularly. They fill it at the factory and assume it will outlast the rest of the car. I don’t know whether yours is sealed or not. If it is, again, don’t jack with it. The mechanic likes to sell this because a fluid “flush/exchange/blessing/etc…” is a low-risk procedure that allows them to bill a few hours. Even if they jack something up, you won’t find it until you’ve gone many miles down the road and they will say it wasn’t their fault. Is this procedure useful? No. Is it going to hurt anything: Only your wallet.
Caveat: if it’s not a sealed transmission, then I would reverse, and tell you it probably wouldn’t hurt to change it out at 100k miles. My reasoning here is my own opinion and likely to have me hung from the tallest tree in the county: Don’t change it because of dirty oil or any of that stuff. Automatic transmissions are big meshing gears, not honed precision surfaces ground to 0.0000001” tolerance. Wear on those gears is a fact of life. You check the ATF fluid to make sure A) It’s full of fluid (auto transmission is a hydraulic system. Works best with adequate fluid levels.) B) because in an unsealed transmission the fluid could theoretically absorb water from contact with ambient air. Get enough of that and the lube properties will break down, at which point wear will become a significant factor.
Hopefully somebody else here has a personal story about point B. I’ve always heard its possible, but I don’t know anyone whose ever dealt with water in the ATF. May be a bunch of BS. Either way, if it’s an unsealed transmission, you can worry about that at 100k miles. Or 125k.
Anyways this is all my personal opinion. Somebody will disagree here and that’s OK too.