I bring my own bits. I favor Amana Spektra and I know Chris (@cghaly) is a fan of Whiteside, which are slightly less expensive but by all accounts excellent bits.
I use the speeds and feeds provided in PDFs from Amana, but the feed (the only variable you can manipulate reliably), can be calculated from the default speed (18k rpm) and recommended chip load using an app like Feeds ‘n Speeds as suggested by Chris.
For Baltic birch plywood, I’d use a compression bit and set your first pass depth (edit Passes in the toolpath pane) to be slightly deeper than bit diameter to ensure the entire down-cut section of the bit is below the surface by at least the thickness of the outer ply.
I’ve found that sometimes there are very slightly ragged edges that can be accidentally turned into tearout by careless handling after routing. Keep that in mind when sanding or flush-trimming your work.
You might consider putting a layer of masking tape over the line you’re going to cut. I’ve never done this but it might help. If you try it, let us know if it helps!
Bottom line on tearout is that you always want something backing your wood in the direction the cutter is trying to move it, whether that direction is up, down, toward or away from the cutting edge of the tool.