Dallas Makerspace Show & Tell - September 2019

Your ribbon turned out great! I love what you did with them.

“One Block Wonder” quilt completed this month (approximately 6 feet squared). The front is constructed from a single piece of fabric; blue dragons, which you can see intact on the back. This is a surprise gift for my brother. Can you guess the first letter of his last name?

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I freehand quilted a dragon over the large “S” using my home sewing machine. My goal was a subtle dragon. Photo shows the dragon head (zoom in and you may also see the stitched “scales”).

I laser cut a paper template to trace the planned dragon stitching onto water-soluble interfacing. The dragon is puffy – he is triple-batted with laser-cut batting. I used laser cut echo guides for a small portion of the quilting. I rented long arm time at Sew Let’s Quilt It to stitch the computerized “background” pattern, prior to stitching the dragon.

Laser-cut batting, shown from the rear

Laser-cut echo guide (after most of the water-soluble interfacing was cut away)
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Wait … shouldn’t this have been 6 cm squared?? Seems so out of scale for you!
Seriously, very impressive.

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If you taught a quilting class I would take it even though I’m not very good at sewing. These are beautiful and amazing. You combined the art of quilting with the amazing technology of the laser. Great job!

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So is that 36 sf total?

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Just felt like working on a leather stamp yesterday. this is 3x5 for a roper wallet.


create everyday.

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What is the ‘stamp’ made of? (It looks like Ivory soap)

It’s delrin plastic which is a hard machinable plastic.

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It can also be ablated via laser (usually in raster mode).

which is what I did here

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I have wanted to try eccentric (off-axis / multi-axis) turning for some time now. I whipped up this little candlestick from mystery wood. Not done at the 'space - but it could have been done on the Sherline lathe.

It was surprisingly easy to do in miniature. I used two chucks and alternated the workpiece between the two - a centering chuck for the central axis portions and a four-jaw independent, intentionally slightly off-center for the second axis portions. Although I did have a harrowing close call with the knuckle buster 4-jaw independent chuck!

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Paint it steel colored and it would look like a crankshaft. Pretty cool.

Start making model engines.

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Tiny working model engines. You could use rubber bands for fan belts.

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If Chris made them, even the small dental rubber bands, would have to be for giant V-16 diesels mounted on flatbed trailers.

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So I could not find the correct acorn lug nuts for my wheel adapters. So I threw 6 of them on the lathe and machined off about .083”. I also used some of out newer tool holders to make the chamfers.



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Out of curiosity, what is the advantage of an acorn nut over a regular hex nut, other than aesthetics?

They help center the hub,

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Secondary benefits are they also provide more surface area between the fastener and the part. Usually the mating part is slightly dimpled up into a crown, as the fastener tightens it not only pushes down but dimple also exerts a laterally load disturbing load over a wider area.

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Makes sense: Thanks to both of you.

I’d assumed they’d be installed taper out so that the corners would not be as sharp on the outside. Use to center up the hub on the bolt as it’s tightened and increase the mating surface area makes perfect sense.

After several false starts and some unexpected challenges, I have completed a colander. The holes are actually drilled in it (first attempt was Shapeoko, second attempt was Cameron drill press).

I learned that Easel has a “drill hole” feature, and there is an add-on app to “convert circles to drill holes”. Of course, I figured this out after I tricked the Shapeoko to drill several hundred holes. I used many of the JSM tools to cut and shape the metal. Many thanks to @JBluJkt who coached me on some of the jewelry techniques!

It has a couple problems, but I am optimistic that if I put it in the back of the scene and carefully stage the angle at which I photograph it, it should be OK. It is silver, and I’m a little concerned about that. Anyone have any salient tips about Renaissance wax?

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