I wanna say I’ve seen them over the years.
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The are often called pancake junction boxes like
https://www.zoro.com/raco-electrical-box-round-ceiling-pan-292/i/G0676724/
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Using this downtime from the makerspace to deep clean the house…going through all my unfinished projects, I found the windchime I started last year, and finally finished it 
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Fluorescent lights use wire nut connections inside a sheet metal-shielded space between the lightbulbs. Perhaps you could fabricate a thinner sheet metal box with grommeted/booted wire openings for your needs?
Another option would be to add a 1” +/- wooden shim all the way around the top of the wooden mounting plate to allow a standard junction box to be used? Make it smaller than the mounting plate for a floating effect or larger than the plate for a stepped, shadow-line effect.
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Wow!
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WOW! It’s beautiful!
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1/6 scale Lost In Space pod. Way early in the build. Part 3d printed and part laser cut 1/8 inch plywood. Lots of design to still do.
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Very interesting! For what are you going to use it?
I collect GI Joe’s as well as go to conventions to show. I have my own convention second weekend in June in Grapevine. All most is for sale but would probably keep this. I will need to learn some electronics to add lights eventually.
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I started a little printmaking project today. The sealer is drying today and I’ll print tomorrow.
Sandpiper:
Elephant:
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That’s kind of you to brand the dms on your personal equipment at home. Nice work sir.
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Finally had the time to finish the hand stitching on the horse pulling collar I’ve been making for my wife’s mustang (named Durango). I designed this based off another pulling collar we own, with some adjustments/ customizations based on his larger frame.
Made from veg tan leather. Double-sided for a smooth back to the parts, hand-tooled, hand-dyed, and hand-stitched.
Click the next pic to see the full piece (TALK truncates the image by default):
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Gosh that’s beautiful!
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In this episode of Erik overthinks a small project…
Out of boredom, a desire to supplement the physical security of my storage shed, and a surplus of padlocks, I opted to add a supplementary hasp.
Poster putty made placement simple with this mildly complex fitment
Was able to swing the hasp out and hold the staple in place for marking holes
The block for the lockset didn’t go end-to-end …
… thus I used longer screws than planned in order to adequately secure the staple by sandwiching the door*
Success - everything lines up*
A little bit of cleanup and now it’s somewhat sturdier
In reality all that I’m doing with this mod is a little added discouragement beyond that which the lockset provides and mandating that any would-be burglar makes more noise and takes more time than they’re likely to want to invest.
As an aside - if anyone is looking for an inexpensive utilitarian padlock, I suggest Commando Lock. They look like other laminated steel locks, but they’re different where it counts:
- Innards
- All pins are security pins, making the core resistant to bumping and raking, thus a lock picker has to take the time to pick it pin-by-pin
- Ball-bearing shackle retainer - not susceptible to shimming
- Key-retaining but can be locked open with the shackle in the 180° position (with a mod to the key, the core can be opened to the -90° position and the shackle removed)
- External
- Laminated steel body has countersunk rivets and self-reinforcing divots so grinding off the rivet heads won’t disassemble the body
- Hardened shackle
- Value
- Made in the USA
- $18 as pictured; can be had as a plain lock (no black zinc, no bumpers) for $15
- A really sweet spot in the market with good security per dollar
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I like this tip! Clever and useful. Consider it stolen
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- Made 480 face shields in an hour last night
- Used a clicker die press & cutter with a design I made
- Kevin Patel
- To help with the shortage of PPE for medical personnel
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Good job, I stand corrected.
You still weren’t a state elected official though 
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