Dichroic glass pendant and frit class tomorrow eve!
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Dining table measuring 45" x 84" has made it to the finish line this month.
Started with two individual spalted maple live edge slabs that were leveled with the Multicam. Joined them and eventually back to the Multicam for a final surfacing and leveling. Finished with Arm-R-Seal urethane. Lake is cobalt blue. LED backlighting exists but isn’t obvious in the pics. Named “High Plains Lake” and is on the floor at Brumbaugh’s Fine Home Furnishings on the western side of Fort Worth. The second photo shows “Maple Oasis”, a sofa table that also benefited from some Space time.
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After getting discouraged many months ago after having multiple pen blanks blow up on the drill press, or having the barrel trimmer rip up the barrels, I finally got back on the pen train. Seems most people prefer the straight and slim style.
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We had our first Acrylic Pour class today! It was a blast! Everyone had a great time and we ended up with a bunch of great art. @heyheymama and I will work on getting them hung up for display as soon as they’re dry.
Instructor: Shay Galland
Attendees: April Burk, Leslie C. Callaway, Jen Emes, Serena Nguyen, Emily Denton, Monika Troester, Jonathan Smith, and Rose Smith.
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Such an awesome class!!!
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Shay, I’m looking forward to hanging this student art display!
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Some pics from the Serge for a Cause charity event where approximately 150 fleece hats were made to be donated.
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Did the existing mug wraps work for you with the 3D vacuum press?
They sure did, we had to put them on their sides though and bake a little longer than is normal but it certainly worked!
When doing the on their side. It is best to flip them halfway through for even heating, if you are doing a two-sided design. It looked like it came out awesome.
and for anyone considering a cheaper printer like the ender 3, buy the MK3 if you can afford it.
I did that as well, and thank you!
This is a simple clamping jig for aligning layers of segmented blanks for small turnings. A small hole would be drilled through the center of a partially assembled the blank (or two opposing corners). The blank would be sliced in whatever way necessary for the second set of laminations. When it’s reassembled, a pin (in this case a threaded rod) is placed through the hole(s) to realign the layers the way they were originally and the nut(s) provide nominal clamping pressure. I haven’t used these yet - I expect I will clamp additional (external) clamps over these once the bolts align the layers.
The jig was made using the laser (top layer), Shapeoko (bottom layer), and Sherline (eight #0 brass nuts). The fixture is acrylic to minimize glue sticking to it. The “bolts” are made from #0 threaded rod, cut into pieces and then secured against a nut to make the fixed end. (I mean, why would you hand thread 10" of steel rod when you can buy it already threaded??)
The hex holes in the bottom hold the “bolt head” in place while tightening the top nut. The engraved notes to myself remind me to put Turtle wax on the bolts to keep glue out of the threads. The fixture for corners has five pairs of holes at different diameters ranging from 5/8" to 9/8" to accommodate different blank sizes. The clear acrylic is a marking template for the blank.
@mdredmond … thanks for the acrylic scrap! It was perfect for this.
(Note about the clear template - I cut this from a scrap piece that was in the laser scrap pile. Judging from the way it burned and smoked under very low power, I suspect it may not have been acrylic … so I disposed of the rest of it).
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suuuuuuuuuuuuper ccoooooooooool
While it is unlikely at that size (#0!) they will be strong enough (or that you can find them), nylon bolts / nuts are an excellent choice for repelling glue.
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I “heart” that.
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