Acrylic pour painting – in wet and dry stages. Very happy with how it turned out!
Thanks to @BarkingChicken for teaching such a great class.
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that turned out great
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Ahhhh! I love seeing yours dry now. Definitely digging it!
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hello. It’s been a while since I’ve done any work on the HAAS. This is an embossing stamp in solid brass. The test subject was a biohazard sign. The back has been cut to accept both handles from the evil empire. The extra weight/bulk of the brass should make for a good impression. And becuase it is brass it can be heated with a torch to use as a branding iron.
The point of this exercise was to zero in on the speeds/feeds that will work best so I can make them faster (see the softjaws for making 3 at a time). Spacing is difficult at this scale. I’m hoping to get good enough to do some medallion work. Raised lettering is especially difficult. Most of this was done with a 1/16" end mill. I tried a 1mm but sadly it did not survive.
The toolpathing was created in Aspire but since this is all 2D work could easily have been done in VCarve. The vectric products are damn inefficient. The code for the biohazard was way to large for the HAAS so I had to stream it.
Cheers!
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Looks nice! When you say two extremes of wood … I assume you mean vastly different hardnesses? Did you have troubles with that?
Looks great! I made a DIY Wash Station from a Magnetic Stirrer but haven’t yet made a UV Cure Station. How is yours working out? What UV lamp did you go with? Looks to be one from Amazon?
Wash Station:
https://talk.dallasmakerspace.org/t/dallas-makerspace-show-tell-september-2019/61868/112
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I use this one, and it’s working great.
3D Printer UV Resin Curing Light for SLA/DLP 3D Printer Solidify Photosensitive Resin 405nm UV Resin with 6W Output Affect, DIY Curing Enclosue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YGN2QGL/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_FEFpEb3W82PZ6
Yea. Specially the 2x4 are very hard with traditional Hss tools. I started with them but got lot of rare and not really an ideal option. Then I use carbide tools and it worked like charm. In the end I was using both but if I had to do it again I won’t go with this type of wood.i rather mix ash or maple with walnut
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Yeh, conventional wisdom is to try to use woods of similar hardness for segmented pieces. I wondered how this worked out. Thanks.
And to be completely lazy 
Do you remember what parameters you used on the FlexBox3?
Thank You
I had someone else asking about this too so here is the info on making one.
I used 1/8 inch (3 mm) Baltic Birch Plywood from Central Hardwood, however it is not actually 3mm. It’s about 2.9mm, which you wouldn’t think would make a difference but it does.
Aside from the dimensions, I also changed the thickness setting to 2.9.
Here is the file I used on Blitzen if you want to cut your own at these dimensions.
You will have to manually drill the holes to mount the lamp, and the brace on the back. The brace on the back is there to prevent the lid from opening too far, because it’s top heavy.
CuringBox.zip (53.9 KB)
Had another awesome chainmaille class with Rose (@Just_Me) & Jonathan Smith tonight - we learned how to make full Persian 6-in-1 bracelets! 
Here is my “Cheshire Cat” newbie chainmailler version of it (made with hot pink & bright purple rings - with & without the cute optional charm attached):
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Who
Spencer
@serpentstailwoodcraft
How
Took a solid piece of hickory and rough cut it on the cnc. Then shaped it on the spindle sander and more precisely carved with a dremel by hand. After shaping was done, I burned the wood with a propane torch, drew the tribal design on each side (I created the tribal design prior to the shaping of the handle), and carved a relief around the design with a dremel. Painted the relief with some ceramcoat, mounted the axe head, and finished the whole thing with a few coats of spray lacquer.
Why
I made this axe handle for a buddy of mine who’s into axe throwing.
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High Vacuum. We have been working on this for a while. Our previous best was about 500 microns. We pulled it down to less than 10 microns, that’s 1/76000th of an atmosphere.
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did you make the axe head
I did not make the axe head, I took it from another axe that my buddy currently uses. I did this because:
1.) Because he’s used to the weight of the head already.
2.) I have no idea how to blacksmith 
Been meaning to learn but I never seem to see any classes teaching anything about anything in the metal shop, and in the rare case I do see one it’s always full 
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yeah i was askng to see if you could have given me pointers lol since i know nothing about blacksmithing but really want to make my own axe handle but would have to take the head from another axe
Open forge on the 23rd. great place to get started. Blacksmithing is not one of those things you learn in an hour and a half. See you there. There is no real set class limit on this.