There’s a coating you can use for some metals to cut them on the laser. It would be good to ask someone from @Team_Laser to find out what metals you can use on a laser and how to prep the pieces.
Your designs are very nice.
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Nitpicky, perhaps, but…
Cermark allows our lasers to ETCH metals.
Nothing we have can CUT metals of any sort.
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Correct. Cermark allows you to use the laser to create designs on things like tumblers. However, the process is ‘additive’ in that it bonds the Cermark to the surface.
Also of note, it’s considered a ‘spray paint’, so may now need to spray it off DMS property (I think).
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There exists “liquids and pastes”, as well, (i.e. “brush on” rather than aerosol, and thus, capable of being used on site).
This is not to say we have any @ DMS. I do not know what, if any, we offer, though we once did offer a can of the spary-on variety.
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The coating you’re talking about allows you to mark different metals, but not cut. From a technical standpoint our lasers might be able to cut certain foils using oxygen assist, but that’s not really practical so it’d just be an expensive excuse to screw around.
We used to offer Ceramark but after the spray paint debacle we no longer do. I have seen people use the paste however it’s much harder to get an even coat.
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Actually, Cermark MARKS metal; it doesn’t etch. It is a black mark that is adhered to the surface of the metal by the heat generated by the laser.
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How thick are those designs? How large the pieces? My first thought when I looked at them was that they are stamped. Amazing saw work!
In the semiconductor industry copper leadframes for integrated circuits are generally etched (low volume or engineering samples) or stamped (high volume).
Could the Shapeoko etch this?
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I’m looking of finding a way to actually cut out without sawing. Right now not quite at the point of considering etching, but perhaps later.
I’m not sure how relevant size is, but thickness is a good question. Maybe 24ga thickness, possibly thinner. If I were to guess size, let’s just start with a 2" base teardrop, with a cutout in the center.
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Sounds like a job for a CNC. It would be pretty slow going at that size. Someday when we get the Shapokeo XL set up it would be useful for this. The small seemed driven one is a bit limited
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That’s almost what I wondered as well. I had re-registered for the Shapeoko (as it’s been a while since I last took training) for Feb but then cancelled because I realized it would do me no good right now if I’m looking for it to accomplish this specific task.
I tried searching to see if there were cut-out stamps of sorts but could not quite find what I’m looking for.
“Someday” …
I’m waiting / wanting the ‘someday’ when we cut a die using the Haas and then stamp the designs.
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Model builders have been using photo etched parts for some time.
There are now kits to make your own.
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Ah, picture helps.
One option would be to source the disks (easier if ok with copper, used a lot in enameling). Then use circle punch in jewelry for larger interior hole and several ways to make small hole to attach findings.
I know Rio Grande has copper disks. I’m sure other jewelry and enamel supplies have.
For production amounts:
Google “pancake dies”
If you’re doing production (too expensive for just a few) these are option.
Ones from potter USA run $25-35ish, there’s some on Etsy for $100ish (they may handcut them) and custom can run $75-150ish
You need to use hydraulic press.
Not sure if current status of ones at dms (one in metal area needed gauge awhile back but maybe fixed now). Not sure if we have one in jewelry…
For the shape you show, you could cut the main shape and use disk cutter in jewelry to punch interior.
Potter USA sells them, plus Etsy artists, or you can get custom.
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Paging @nicksilva …
Perhaps this could be done as a custom stamp/die carved out on the HAAS. Nick’s the ornery expert at that! 
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yes it could but there is a larger learning curve than on a smaller machine.
The bookmarks you show are almost certainly etched.
Note about Lasers. We have co2 lasers that cannot cut metal (need a special setup). It would require a Fibre laser to etch and cut.
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Pancake dies! Man, I never would have figured out that term. I kept looking up silhouette punch outs and all sorts of things but never came up with pancake dies in all my searches. I’m not quite looking to do production, but I may. At this time though, definitely not.
I mean I can give sawing a go again and see what happens, but punching out somehow seemed like perhaps it could be better for me. Sounds like the better test would be sourcing the shape and figuring out a way to do what I want perhaps with the circle punch.
Thank you so much for all the info! I’m going to try researching the circle punch more.
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Cool. Glad that was helpful.
Re next sawing attempt
If you want to try to coordinate, weekdays afternoon/evening, we could meet up and I could show you how I do it.
A few tips if trying on your own:
I think sometimes when learning it’s easy to want to death-grip the saw, which makes for uncomfortable hands and wrists, and easier to break blades. Pretend you’re holding an egg or a baby bird and have just enough grip to control the saw.
The other common thing is forcing the blade. It just needs to move in a smooth rhythm and the weight of the saw at a slight angle will carry it forward. And don’t get in a hurry. Smooth consistency will win over having to fix binds and broken blades from going too fast.
Also, lubricate the blade regularly with that wax in the drawer. It starts binding, more wax.
Life’s too short for cheap saw blades. Better teeth don’t cost much more. If the brand you’re using is aggravating, try another. I like Lasergold or Herkules blades (can get both from Rio Grande jewelers supply).
Make sure you’re using right number of teeth for metal thickness. There’s charts. That being said you can get away with just a few main sizes. But not enough teeth relative to metal gauge will be aggravating.
I turn the piece and keep the saw blade in place. Sorta looks like feeding material through a sewing machine. Smooth consistent speed.
Most important, use the majority of the length of the saw blade when sawing and try for a smooth consistent rhythm. That rhythm is super important. If you can get there, you’re in the zen zone 
and all is working as it should
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