Car part discounts

Automotive
#6

We have a wholesale account with a large wholesale ONLY import parts source that will deliver to the Space during the week and on Saturdays or the parts can be picked up at their “will call” counter in Dallas (not far from the Space.

There are a few restrictions to note.
All deliveries & Will Call orders must be handled in cash only - cash not debit card, US currency only.
They charge sales tax on your parts.

Ebony, Jay, and a few others have tried it out for various items from lubricants to misc mechanical parts, timing parts, belts, cooling, etc.

Delivery is available up to 9 times a day to the Space (M-F) and up to 5 times on Saturdays. The Member or the designated person with the money must be at the Space when the delivery driver arrives (the driver will not wait for anyone - they are on a tight schedule).

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#7

Can you give me the info for them? Want to compare/contrast.

#8

As an aside, I’d avoid O’Reilly parts, because they run on the same lowest-bidder scheme that Autozone does for house-brand parts, and even their very limited selection of name-brand parts seem to come from the bottom of the barrel. Tolerance? What tolerance?

Also, having worked there, let me tell you: the markups are ridiculous. The employee discount is steeper than any discount provided to third parties, and RockAuto still beats the employee discount, even with shipping included.

#9

There was a delivery for someone last week. There wasn’t a name on the delivery. She did find a phone number, not sure if she got ahold of them or not.

#10

Tim,

When a driver shows up and cannot find anyone, they always call my cell phone…

O’Reilly is fine for chemicals when they are on sale, or if you want generic car parts locally.

#12

http://imcparts.net/

Source for Brake Pads and Discs
#13

what does WS ATF cost on your Toyo site?

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#14

I didn’t get any hits on the word “ws” (as it relates to ATF) or even “fluid” :frowning: (I own a Toyota for which I want to change the ATF).

Good site, though.

#15

Let me know Year/make/model and the part you need.

#17

Marshall,

IMC carries most (if not all) the factory spec fluids for your Toyota. In either the Toyota branded bottle or the Eneos bottle (Eneos being the folks that make the synthetic lubricants for most of the asian cars)

#18

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Automatic-Transmission-Standard/dp/B00CTUSEMU

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#19

Yep…if I dismember correctly that is only one out there on Amazon. I was looking for something less expensive (cheap bastard). Found it via Tom/@TLAR. Hooray, Tom!

Also, I can;t confirm, but this post (https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/) indicates there are other ATFs that are compatible/interchangeable with WS. I am specifically not recommending since I have no direct knowledge of it.

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How would _you_ do an ATF fluid exchange?
#20

Why would anyone buy that when they can buy this at a fraction of the price ($6.50 per quart)?:

Eneos
Eneos.jpg1500×1500 106 KB

Toyota doesn’t make the fluid - Eneos does.

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#21

It was my intention to answer the question I thought you were asking (and I KNOW I was): what is WS in this context. Answer, per that item is “World Standard”.
I was not intending to endorse the product because I have zero knowledge on Toy Yoda fluids…

I agree, but it doesn’t say right up front in big bold letters what WS means. :slight_smile:

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#22

It was my intention to answer the question I thought you were asking (and I KNOW I was)
[/quote]

I wasn’t giving you a hard time(I know where you used to work) - just pointing out that that way too many misinformed people “think” they must buy parts that only come in the respective dealer packaging to get the best parts that “fit” their vehicles…

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#24

Automatic rymthes with American doesn’t it?
Only my truck is an automatic…

#25

As an FYI, The company code does work at other Oreily’s. They have to look it up.

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#26

To be honest, if any average person were actually to give that as their reason, I’d pause, shake their hand and commend them on being a responsible car owner. Because that guy read his owners manual. “You know what fluids your owner’s manual lists as approved, sir? And you actually care? You get a gold star. Please tell all your friends to do the same.” I mean, if it’s a choice of that guy or every other average Joe/Jane, whose car would you rather be dealing with regularly? (Assuming you’re not making a profit off the guy, of course. Or maybe depending on your business model/ethics, even if you are.) It’s that guy or, “naw, I don’t really remember last time I changed my oil, maybe like a year ago give or take?” “The oil I bought said good for 10,000 miles on it when I bought it at Autozone with that free STP filter they bundled with it, I’m sure it still has a while.” “What do you mean, I have to change my brake fluid? How was I supposed to know THAT?” “Yeah, I change my oil every 3000 miles on my 2016 Corolla; that’s what you’re supposed to do, right? I’m sure of it; everyone knew that was the right interval back when I learned to drive on my dad’s 1978 Skylark.” Considering all the random derp that’s out there about vehicles, I’m okay with cheering on the few that actually RTFM. At least they’re trying!

The really funny thing is, I only skimmed through the thread the first time, and when you guys started talking about fluid and @TLAR asked what the pricing was on “your Toyo site,” my first thought was, “when did Denso start selling ATF, let alone via e-commerce ?” I was really confused for a solid 5 minutes there, and then felt sorta dumb. So maybe there is such a thing as being too used to OEM parts… :slight_smile:

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#28

The brake fluid/water azeotrope has similar compressibility to raw brake fluid, however its boiling point is significantly reduced from over 400 degrees to slightly over 200 degrees. It also becomes more corrosive to steel lines, though it will probably take a considerable amount of time to measurably corrode Japanese galvanized steel brake lines.

Day to day, brake fluid will probably work as well no matter how old it is, but if you need to do any hard braking, you drastically increase your chance of boiling the fluid as it ages. And boiling fluid is not incompressible.

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#29

I disagree. I have seen it first hand. All we did was bleed the brakes & all was well. His was a 2000, in 2012 is when we bled them.

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