Camper top window replacement with lexan

Automotive
#1

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I am looking for ideas on how to cut a piece of lexan to fit for the window replacement.

I have Leer camper top that i need to replace a broken window on. I cant find a glass shop that will cut a piece of glass for it. Leer wants to sell the whole window assembly which i think is a waste.

I decided to replace the window pane with Lexan and picked up a piece up to cut.

I am looking for recomendations on how to best cut out the Lexan to fit the window of the topper. The front side of the window has rounded corners.

Any ideas would be helpful.

#2

I am think maybe using the laser but I am not sure .

#3

Likely not. Lexan, especially thick Lexan, does not cut nicely on the laser and usually ends up with really rough edges among other things.

Further, I will need the SDS for that brand if so - most of them release some nasty fumes iirc (both to humans and the machine)

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#4

My first thought would be to rough it out on the table saw in plastics, then final cut it on a laser cutter. You need to make sure your material isn’t on the banned list.

Second option would be use the old window as a template, cut to width plus a bit of margin for edge finishing, use the plastics bandsaw for the curves and hand sand the edges to finish.

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#5

Yep. Lexan (brand) is a polycarbonate that releases chlorine.

Laser cut a template from paper then bandsaw the lexan in the plastics area. Finish up with the (plastics) edge sander.

If you’re trained on the woodshop bandsaws then you can use the plastics bandsaw. Ditto the sander.

EDIT: I should clarify that you should start on the plastics tablesaw and then do the corners on the plastics bandsaw,

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#6

Shapeoko to cut the round corners.

#7

This would be easily doable on a laser if the material were acrylic.

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#8

If you have a pattern that actually fits exactly the size and shape you want - as in remove the good glass from the other side of the Topper and use it as a template…Addison glass could cut a replacement for you. But if you show up with your truck and ask them as it is - they will say no.

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#9

So I had asked for Lexan but got Makrolon. I picked it up from Allied Plastics in Dallas and am trying to find more info on it now.

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#10

I am leaning toward this route. I think to get the template, I need to use a sheet of plywood (or something of similar) and press it up against the window from the outside, tracing out the window frame and adding a quarter of an inch to accommodate the difference in the frame edge and the sash.

Ok…So I didn’t know we have a plastics section of DMS ( I am going to have to look into this) I did check out on both the tablesaw and the bandsaw during a couple of classes I took in woodshop.

#11

A big sheet of cardboard also makes a good template. Got any big boxes hanging around?

Plastics is next to the Machine Shop in the new warehouse.

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#12

its polycarbonate which is on the do not laser list.

#13

ooh sweet… I am going to have to go check it out. I thought about cardboard too but my one concern with that if it’s not rigid enough there could be some sag which could affect the template size a little. Ill have to check to see if i have a box that will work and try it out. It would be much easier to work with than plywood.

#14

I considered pulling the other side out as it would be the perfect template but dont want to risk breaking it in the process.

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#15

I havent been certified on the shapeoko yet . I’ll need to find a class.

#16

After you cut it, you can smooth the corners with plastics belt sander’s. The newest is 2x42 but you must supply your own belt

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#17

Possibly. You can buy coroplast at the big box hardware stores; which you can cut with a knife and it shouldn’t sag at all.

I’m speculating here, but if your plastic piece fits too tightly that might cause it to crack … Plus the plastic will expand when it gets warmer outside. I’m guessing you’ll need a small amount clearance between the lexan and the frame but IDK how much.

#18

This is likely too large for the shapeoko. The pathway is to cut the straight lines with the table saw and the corners with the bandsaw and belt sander in plastics . I will be in the plastics shop tomorrow and can point you in the right direction . Polycarbonates are fine in the plastics shop .

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#19

Acrylic is not polycarbonate. What I suggested was acrylic. It cuts beautifully and safely on lasers.

#20

Cut/sand/laser template out of masonite or thin plywood, rough cut polycarbonate to approximate size and shape, then use template with flush trim bit in a router to cut polycarbonate to exact size.

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