Bandsaw technique question

Yesterday I tried to resaw a 1" pen blank into thinner strips on the medium sized bandsaw. I couldn’t keep the line parallel to the fence, no matter how gently or slowly I fed it. It was almost like the blade was twisted but I’m sure that’s unlikely.

I’m not suggesting anything is wrong with the saw. I’d like to learn from my mistakes.

Thoughts? Operator error? Wood too hard? Tension? Dull blade? Other ideas?

Details:
Wood: African Blackwood
Size: About 1" tall
EDIT: Fence, turned in the flat/short direction

Oh, and BTW, to the person who resawed a very tall piece on that bandsaw, probably a log … Mommy cleaned up after you.

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Maybe?:

tl;dr: try a 3 TPI sharp (new) blade.

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It would probably work fine on poplar. In my experience, the more precious or limited in supply the material, the more likely a conspiracy by machines. Or, as Marshall said … a sharp blade is needed.

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High high we’re the bearings above the material? My experience is mixed on resawing anything on any bandsaw. But one thing I have learned is the bearings need to be right above the material for the best result and keep drifting down.

The fences in the ‘space tend to be tall and when trying to rip really narrow strips it is not possible to use those directly. So either a temp fence clamped to the table or a piece clamped to the fence to get the offset needed.

Or as is more often the case…… @bertberaht is right.

*how. How high.

one can edit one’s own post using the “pencil” icon:

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Great question. About 1/2 inch.

EDIT:

I should have clarified that I put the fence on so it was only (3/4"?) tall. It was not the tall fence. Is that too tall?

I would think 1/2 inch is close enough but dropping it lower to just clear the top of the wood may help some more.

The last thing to check would be to possibly check the tension on the blade. I don’t know how that is done on the saws at the space. The increased tension would also help in minimizing blade drift/deflection.

I would encourage you, though trial-and-error, to figure it out and share what works for you and to share with the community how to do it.

Sharp blade and low feed pressure are usually the top two key items to improve the odds. If it were my saw, I would have all 6 guide rollers about a paper thickness off the blade, and the side ones barely behind the gullets. But I wouldn’t be adjusting the ones here like that without explicit permission.

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Why not use the table saw to trim the blanks?

I don’t resaw alot, but when I do, I start with the table saw. For boards less than about 4" wide I cut with table saw (run through twice - once on each side). For wood greater than 4" wide - Start by running through a table saw then the bandsaw to make the cut of the remaining middle. I will also cut a 1/2" starter slot on one end to make it easier to get started on the bandsaw. Example - 8" wide board - cut 2" groove on each side. Stand board up, cut 1/2 slot on one end. then go to a band saw. There is a lot less material to cut, the groove is a guide and my experience is the pre cut channels act as a guide for the blade. Then plane the boards down to the table saw cut. I lose a max of 0.1" per resaw cut this way. This is overall faster and has considerably less “stress” on me making the cuts.

Yes - bandsaws “eat up” less wood. If you use a thin kerf blade you lose .1" plus sanding off blade marks. Using a bandsaw only to resaw, you will lose 0.05" plus whatever amount you take off by planing/sanding the bandsaw cut (typically 0.01" to 0.02 on each side, but it can be a lot more if the cut is not perfectly straight. So theoretically, best case, you save 0.05" of wood over a thin kerf blade - but in practice you might only save 0.03" over a table saw blade (and savings can be zero or even negative depending on how good/bad you are on the bandsaw).

My experience with bandsaws and making straight cuts: Sharp blade, adjust guides to be paper close to the blade with the teeth barely in front of the guides, lots of tension, slow feed rate, as few teeth as you can get away with (but at least three teeth spanning the wood (ie the thinnest wood I will cut with a 3 tpi blade is 1").

Make sense?

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It makes a lot of sense. In the end that’s what I ended up doing, and I’ll admit that the African Blackwood was still kinda tough to saw with a table saw. I didn’t happen to have a thin kerf blade which is why my thoughts initially went to bandsaw. I had no problem a week earlier using the bandsaw on rosewood, but I suspect the toughness of the Blackwood may have been what did me in here.

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You can get 7" thin kerf saw blades that will work on the table saws much cheaper than a 10" blade, biggest tradeoff will be the smaller maximum depth of cut.

Example: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-7-1-4-in-24T-Carbide-Tipped-Ultra-Thin-Kerf-Saw-Blade-Framing-B-61656/307817109

Blade listed above has less than a 1/16" kerf for under $10. Just have to make sure whichever blade you choose is rated to also work in a full table saw, and not just in a handheld skilsaw/tracksaw.

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****We don’t have the thin kerf riving knife for either saw. Keep that in mind before you buy a saw blade thinking you can just use that in our table saws. To use it safely in the table saw you will need to find a riving knife or a throat plate with a splitter that has the correct kerf to match your blade.

Like this one from microJig… but I don’t know if it will work for that blade
MICROJIG GRR-RIPPER SP-0100TK Mj Splitter Table Saw Safety Splitter And Riving Knife Alternative For Zero Clearance Insert, https://a.co/d/jhYSO4v
@Team_Woodshop

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Would need to be the Powermatic; Sawstop safety sensors won’t allow machine to energize with that much gap bewtween blade and brake (I’m pretty sure…).

Yup that Makita balde will not work on the saw stop

When you were having your issue with the band saw? Did you inspect the blade for damage?



I found teeth missing /torn from the blade this may have caused your tracking issue? I ask only determine then this damage accrued… as they say rolling tape to try and find out…

No, I didn’t think to do that.

Is your photo from the medium band saw (i.e., the western Jet)? Those teeth sure look huge in the photo!

I used it Friday a.m. 10/21. Based on the bark dust left behind and very high roller setting, the person before me may have resawed a log.

It’s from the laguna.the jet saws don’t have resaw blades in them…but will resaw without them; tracking can be an issue with thinner blades

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On the small bandsaws Ive seen the guides set wrong so the side rollers hit the teeth, pretty much ruining the blade. It wont cut straight after that.
If there is any burning/darkening in the kerf the blade is shot.

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