If you want to tow strap it to the space I’m happy to help.
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Can’t help but notice there does not appear to be a field for transmission choice. I don’t know where you are on that spectrum, but I can eliminate several of those for you if an auto tranny is a requirement (including both of your “CR Least Reliable” notes) because the DSGs are complete crap (in my opinion, but also shared by massive quantities of consumers who’ve actually tried to live with them)…
Nope. Kind of agnostic on that front since slushboxes seem to have hit a “don’t suck so bad” point once the figured out that they need not limit themselves to 4 gears and weird random shift logic.
For some reasons the automakers need to make CVTs work like conventional automatics, negating their advantages.
A 6+ speed conventional automatic that’s responsive and has some options for manual control - such as the paddle shifters all the cool kids have - would satisfy so long as it doesn’t self-grenade every 30k miles or require regular infusions of unicorn blood.
I’m also partial to the 3-pedal arrangement as some of my elections show…
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I’ll reiterate my opinion: steer clear of “DSG” auto-boxes (as employed by Ford on the Focus and Fiesta (type “I”), as well as Fusion, and by VW on the Golf (type “II”))
Good luck!
PS I desperately WANT to assist in doing a successful bearing job on the 3, but this summer’s pretty crazy for me. Please let us know when/if this is going down, and I hope I can be a part of it…
Wikipedia generally agrees:
The list of disadvantages is … extensive.
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Amusingly (I guess…) that’s because the car buying public H A T E D them without that behaviour. Back in the 80’s Subaru had their Justy with a then-new technology CVT with a ground-breaking steal drive “belt”. Neat little econobox. But the CVT took some getting used to, since you’d put the throttle where you want it, and then just feel the speed change while the engine droned on at peak torque. There’s the key. The public are accustomed to high revs for power production because we don’t understand how power generation in the internal combustion engine works. We only know what we’re accustomed to. And that wasn’t it. So, in the earlier parts of the new millennium, Audi, of all people, touted their “New CVT”, the breaking technology of which was “dramatic shift point simulation”. Absolutely pointless, except to assuage the expectations of what, Audi hoped, the massive new Eco-Luxo-Barge market demanded. It sort of worked. Now this technology has seeped into every manufacturer’s line up, and people seem to be taking to it better now than previous efforts, even though it’s the same technology Subaru (largely) failed with. But. Fuel economy has become the latest trend, and kids these days don’t give two whoops about things the kids thought were cool in the nearly-90s. They’re OK with things manufacturers in the 90s would never have gotten away with. Especially if it artificially “adds character”, like on that new video game. See “fake cockpit sounds”.
But I digress.
CVTs suck if you like to drive. They’re great if you like to brag about fuel economy. It depends on the application if you concern yourself with reliability (Don’t get a AWD Nissan Murano with one; they’re too heavy and with AWD, stick too well-- fortunately, that’s not on your short list!).
DSGs are AWESOME technology, badly implemented, poorly marketed, and inappropriately “dealt with” by their sellers for the (sometime painful) shortcomings (looking at you, Ford Focus/Fiesta).
Autos suck always, but sometimes are necessary(like if you’re an amputee).
Manual transmissions are the ONLY answer that makes any sense. 
EDIT: zero experience with the “infinity drive” types, e.g. Tesla or Koenigsegg but I’d love to have a go if someone wants to set up a test drive…
Erik,
I’ve been away the last few days and experienced a minor-major roadside repair in lovely Marble Falls over the weekend (pics or that experience to be posted soon) - so I’ve missed out on your posts and the entertaining commentary.
DO NOT start or run the engine until you know what is going on.
If you’re fairly certain the noise is a rod/main…
1:I’d suggest having your car towed to the space (if you don’t have towing and roadside assistance on your insurance - get it just in case) - I don’t suggest a rope or strap type of tow for obvious safety reasons (with a non running engine) for you and the public…
2: I’d drop the oil pan and pull the rod cap off the rod farthest from the oil pump - this is where starvation usually occurs first. I’d also remove a main cap that is preferably the thrust bearing or flywheel one (often one and the same) if accessible.
3: Order an oil analysis kit and send a sample in - it isn’t expensive and would be interesting to see the results.
4: Order rod bearing shells, oil pan gasket if applicable, CORRECT oil that meets the manufacturer’s specs (the API is useless for today’s imported cars), If you cannot find it - let me know and I will get it for you, and oil filter.
5: Factory(as in EO supplier to the Japanese marques) oil is about $29 for a 5 Litre jug, oil filter is $4 I don’t have access to the shells though.
6: If the shells are worn and the journals are in good shape - I 'd just do the shells. If not - then decide on what to do after a peek inside at the bottom end to rule out a rod knock.
Just curious but how low was the oil level?
How many miles are on the car?
Are you the original owner?
I’ll make time to help you in the evenings or a sun/mon if need be
Stay away from CVT’s & DSG’s (or whatever they may be called by other manufacturers)
The fact is - if it doesn’t have three pedals - it is NOT a manual transmission
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Tom:
Thanks for the insights.
Oil was about 2L low.
~107k miles.
I am the original owner.
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If you want to rent a U-Haul tow dolly, I’ll tow your car behind my F-250 on Thursday.
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Erik,
I’d be unpleasantly surprised if the noise is an oil related issue since you are the original owner - unless wally World or the like has been doing(or not doing) your oil changes…
107k is low, very low even on a compact turbo.
but just in case - do not start it, even to move it for towing etc.
Where are you located as in rough distance from the space?
I’d offer to winch it up on my car trailer and bring it to the space but have no AC in the truck at the moment and it is a wee bit warm outside for this old fart.
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I believe he’s over somewhere in Lewisville.
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Yes, Lewisville. Southwest Lewisville near the border with Flower Mound where property values inexplicably jump by ~20%.
In related news, nothing like mixed signals at the dealership after playing the waiting games and the constantly-teleporting salesman routine. I step into the finance office thinking I’m just going to go over the Real™ price and payment information when he starts it off with “let’s sign this contract so you can get out of here”.
Hilarity ensues. I end up backtracking with the finance guy (60s), the sales manager (~5 min) then before I’ve had the opportunity to escape the lot the GM walks up while I’m preparing to leave in my car for a ~10 minute chat ostensibly on a fact-finding mission for what went wrong but really just some drama to try to save the sale (end of the month I suppose).
Good times. If the local dealership gets stock, suspect I’ll go there instead.
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Erik,
If you want to get your car to the Space - PM me with your address and an evening after 7pm that works for you - (Thursday would work)
Just give me a 48 hour head’s up.
I’ll put it on my car trailer and take it to the space.
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I had them do a change once. It was on a long trip. They put somebody else’s drain plug into my pan, forked up the thread and it still leaked. I had to get it retapped for a larger plug when I got home. Never again…
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The funny thing is, though, that I have relatives who swear by their local WW, but won’t take their Honda to their local dealer.
Well, didn’t.
Now that they’ve moved, that’s reversed, since the NEW local WW SUXORS! and their new local Honda Dealer seems reasonably competent.
It’s hard shopping for new services after a move…
Looks like I am about 4.21 miles from your house - scary eh?
I’ll be over around 7pm Thursday to pick you and your Mazda up.
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I just got the top end of my 383 stroker apart to see why I was getting water in the oil pan. Looks like #7 could be the culprit. =) Suspicious that I can’t find that piece anywhere, but either way, it’s toast.
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Thanks to @TLAR 's generosity, the vehicle is now at the Space. I will source parts then schedule a day for the troubleshooting for those interested. I’m thinking crank bearings, seals, rod bearings, new oil, new filter. Any other suggested parts?
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Check PCV valve. Cheap and easy, and stuck closed can be bad for your engine.
