Wilson II Kit - From unboxing to printing in under 24 hours

@TheNorthForty

This half of the Pi case was sliced on Cura.

Settings:

  • Layer height: 0.15mm
  • Fill: 20%
  • Print speed: 40mm/s

I printed the second half of the case, sliced in CraftWare at faster settings, and I think it looks a little better:

  • Layer height: 0.240mm
  • Fill: 10%
  • Print speed: 50mm/s

@themitch22 I’d love to get Simplify3D - I need to find some sort of paying 3D printing project that will justify the cost, though.

I won 400 dollars in Visa gift cards at work this week, and I’ve decided to buy a Wilson II kit…mainly due to this post.

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For peeling tools, you can go by any Hobby Lobby, and get a set of palette knives for about 8 bucks. These are what I’m using:

http://www.hobbylobby.com/Art-Supplies/Painting-Supplies/Palettes-Tools/Masters-Touch-5-Piece-Metal-Palette-Knife-Set/p/5310

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If you download their app you can get a 40% off coupon for any one item, too. No so important perhaps for an $8 item, but handy if you’re buying something more costly.

Nice. We have a Wilson II party started.

Indeed! So, I just tried my hand at another large complex print in ABS last night, and it failed pretty poorly. Even with a makeshift cardboard wall, the ABS part had pretty severe warping. I’ll need to build a proper enclosure, and perhaps more powerful heated bed to pull off parts like this in ABS.

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You should try PET (polyester tape the polyprinters use) or PEI sheet with adhesive and see which one works better.

Bed adherence is only part of the problem. If the part does stick well to the bed, it will likely crack when warping, even the base is on the bed okay. I think enclosure is the way to go.

Yes, on open printers like these it’s really hard to control the warping. Enclosed is the way to go with ABS. On my open prusa kit, I don’t bother with ABS. With a higher air temp heating the bed shouldn’t take as long.

Nick showed me CraftWare, It looks awesome! I’d run it instead of Cura if there was any hope for my old laptop.

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I just started trying ABS on my Prussa i3. Overall, it printed a custom project box ok inside an open faced enclosure (working on full enclosure), but the walls warped slightly a little ways into the print

I’ve now printed a number of parts in the 3-4 hr range with ABS and no warping, while utilizing a brim. I think it’s been a bit warmer overall in my workshop, so I think that helps.

Right now I’m printing the parts for this fun looking servo driven robotic arm: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1454048

Enclosure is next! I’ve got a preliminary design of it here: http://community.reprapwilson3d.com/t/enclosure-concept/154/3

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Just go ahead and make two of them and I’ll test the other one :stuck_out_tongue:

If you’re really crazy you could integrate a PID controller and heated blower (small space heater) to heat the chamber. Since it’s your own build, it wouldn’t violate Stratasys’ patent on heated chambers.

I’m also concerned with fire risk of leaving a print at home unattended. I plan on having some sort of fire detector unit to cut the power and notify me. I’d use a halon fire suppression but I don’t want to suffocate my pets.

Glad to hear so much successes with the Wilson II, it definitely makes me a little jealous compared to the work the Mendel90 has been.

I’ve looked at a few heated build chamber ideas, from heat lamps to space heaters… A number of options out there.

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I wonder if peltier units would be useful, since they’re DC powered and more controllable.

Haha, Mitch, I’ll let you know how it goes. I’ve got about 2/3 of the parts printed over the last 2 days.

You know it wouldn’t be hard to say de-contruct a hair drier & modify to heat a chamber up.