I just got a jobsite table saw for the home workshop (happy birthday to me!). I’ve never owned a table saw before so the setting up is all new to me. I’ve been working through making sure the fence and blade are parallel to the miter slots, that the blade is square to the table, leveling the extension wing tables to the main table, etc. Got one of these to help with that and it works pretty well! Amazon.com: MAG-DRO Mitre Slot Caliper Base : Industrial & Scientific
Went to Woodcraft and got a couple of feather boards. After trying a couple of cuts with the stock “multi material” blade, I ordered a couple of proper wood blades. The blade it came with will be saved for cutting pallet wood
What are some “musts” y’all would do when setting up shop with a new saw? A cross-cut jig is probably near the top of my list because the miter gauge, … well, it’s a cheap affordable saw, you know how it is.
Keep a close eye on the fence over time…many of the saws that are in the range you’ve indicated have fences that are notoriously finicky/fickle/inaccurate over time.
Zero clearance throat plate should be on a short list for you, as should be the cross-cut sled you mentioned. Maybe some side-feed and out-feed tables? Maybe some sort of bench for it to sit on/in:
Also, search on Instrucatbles with suitable key words for inspiration and how-to.
You really need a spring-loaded dial-indicator set-up like A-Line-It (https://www.in-lineindustries.com/) if you are tuning for fine woodworking as opposed to things like making patio Jenga games out of 2x4s or framing work for an out-bulding. Also, the guy that sells these has a lot of helpful videos re: table saw tuning.
They make spring loaded roller blade wheels essentially that hook on to the fence and are awesome at providing down pressure, during the cut and used in combination with feather boards provide and very safe and accurate cut, and this isn’t really a item as more so a task, out a nice coat of past wax on the fence, table, and throat plate which make it 1 protected but 2 very resistance free
Use the splitter/riving knife unless you’re using a dado set.
Use PPE - saws are loud and throw sawdust.
Don’t stand directly behind the blade - kickback is no joke.
Make some pushsticks - it’s better for them to get chewed up than your fingers. “Whale” style allow for easier down-pressure on wood being cut, but the Fish” style is easy and take just a couple mins to make. A hole for hanging is nice, and a taper on the handle keeps fingers at the back end.
Adding a sacrificial wood plate to the fence makes cutting thin strips possible (also need a zero-clearance plate). This’ll probably save you a blade at some point down the line so it’s a cheap investment.
I’ve ruined large cuts so many times using job site aka portable table saws because the fence would move or not lock up square to the blade. Hopefully, the saws on the market today are better at this. If your saw’s fence is finicky, I would suggest marking the table in big letter “Always Check Fence”.
My worst experience with a table saw was helping a buddy make kitchen cabinets. His little shitty saw would move a bit less than 1/16 nearly every cut. I’m getting frustrated just remembering it.
Good luck with the saw, hope it gets you making more projects.
…and have used them…ummm…maybe a dozen times over the 10 years I’ve had them for large batches (or at least several sequential) rip cuts. They worked pretty well. And the price is right :–)
I forget if they work on, or adapt to, any saw…you may need to talk to them.
Well, that’s interesting. I never knew something like that existed. Apparently they only roll one direction, I’d be interested in seeing someone else do a kickback test to see how well they work. Off to YouTube to see if such a test exists!
@collinrh I like the Magswitch products I’ve used at the space, those are definitely on the list.
Lol I once saw a truck that said 9 fingers left carpentry with a number and email below it and it’s probably the most clever business name I’ve come across
I have the JessEm stock guides on my 5 HP Delta table saw. They are awesome, but probably too large for a small jobsite saw. I do recommend them for a full size saw, especially if you have a biesemeyer style fence. I mounted the guide to a strip of wood that fits on top of the fence and secure it with 2 magswitches. Easy on, easy off and the guide system is very well engineered. Pricey, but you get your money’s worth.
adding a sacrificial fence to the main fence is a good add. I made mine out of MDF, and longer that the standard fence. I made it taller too. Allows you to attach things like downward feather boards.
Support tables, like an outfeed table, are fantastic. Until you build that, I recommend this support. I have had one for ages. It is slick, tilts to help when the level is not the same or the board sags. Very well made. So much better than the rollers.
Funny how you posted about this specific one. Just saw this on one of the deal sites I follow. A factory blemish one is on sale today at Direct Tools Factory Outlet for $17 with a 15% off coupon code (Flash15).
It’s an old book, but it covers pretty much everything you can do with a Table Saw. You can make most things, like a cross cut sled, feather boards, push sticks, taper jig, even a zero clearance plate… I used to cut several pieces of Luan ply to the size of my throat plate, and just raise my blade through it to make a zero clearance plate. And you can make them for dado blades, and molding cutters, as well. Cheap, but effective! But, seriously, the book was the best accessory I ever bought.
Just saw this on one of the deal sites I follow. A factory blemish one is on sale today at Direct Tools Factory Outlet for $17 with a 15% off coupon code (Flash15).