Welding Safety Course Materials

Until the course goes live, or just as another place to look over it, I’m gonna go ahead and post it on here.
If we decide to delete it later on then so be it. But here it is for all the interested parties.

Welcome to the Welding Safety and Concepts Guide!

This guide is built out of the standards found in ANSI Z.49-2005 Safety in Welding, Cutting, and Allied Processes. Links will be provided at the bottom to the most current revision of the standards for further study.

To begin let’s consider personal safety. Welding and working in the shop will always be risky, but by taking precautions we can significantly reduce the danger posed to ourselves and others. We’ll begin with Personal Protective Equipment or PPE.

First and foremost do not wear clothing made of synthetic materials in the shop as they carry the risk of melting to your body if ignited. Cotton or wool clothing is preferable to polyester or blends. For welding clothes it is advisable to not use fabric softeners and only use clothes in good condition. Frayed clothing of any kind puts you at increased risk of catching fire from a stray spark.

Starting from the floor you’re going to need a good leather boot with a steel toe that goes up the leg at least 8 inches. I prefer to use boots without laces for two reasons: most laced boots use synthetic laces which can catch fire/melt, and weld or cut spatter can work its way around the tongue of a laced boot and come into contact with your feet. This leads to the unfortunate scenario of trying to remove a boot tied to your foot while being burnt the whole time by super hot metal. If laced boots are your only option, laces made of kevlar or other fire resistant materials are available and leather spats may be purchased to add a layer of protection.

For your upper body and arms a wide variety of options are available from leather aprons and welding capes to flame retardant cloth jackets and sleeves. These preferences depend on personal comfort and the type of welding you’ll be doing. In our case any of these options may be worn. A word of personal caution in regards to sleeves: if you do not have any collar to protect your neck from the UV thrown off by the arc a cotton bandana tied around the neck can help prevent radiation burns.

A good pair of leather gloves are essential. However, I cannot overstate the fact that wearing gloves does not exempt you from using pliers or vice grips to handle hot steel. Even the thickest leather gloves will transfer heat to your hands if you grasp a hot work piece for too long. Gloves generally exist on a spectrum with “Most Protection” at one end and “Most Dexterity” at the other. Whichever glove you choose depends on the sort of welding you’ll be doing and how hot the work will be.

To protect the head there are two items which must always be worn in the shop regardless of whether you are welding or not: Eye Protection and Ear Protection. Safety glasses are available in a wide variety of styles ranging from inexpensive to specialty prescription lenses. If you already wear glasses, attachable side guards are available for added protection. For hearing protection soft foam disposable earplugs are commonly used throughout the industry. Another option are reusable PVC earplugs. Whichever you choose boils down to personal preference and comfort.

For the process of welding and cutting you will need a pair of torch shades/cutting goggles and a welding helmet. Under the helmet it is advised to wear some form of soft cap or cotton bandana. This will protect your head from sparks as well as provide added comfort for long welding sessions. Concerning helmets themselves there are many on the market from traditional flip hoods to auto-darkening helmets. Prices range from under ten dollars to three hundred. All of them do the same job, it really comes down to what you’re comfortable with using.

Moving on to essential tools and their safe use…

To be able to make anything out of metal it’s just as important to know how to cut and remove material as it is to fuse and build up. For these tasks we use cutting tools and grinding tools. Let’s cover the cutting options first!

There are several ways to cut metal but they can be sorted into three general categories: mechanical, electrical, and chemical. Mechanical cutting involves physical action with options like snips, shears, and grinders. Electrical cutting applies to plasma cutters; either handheld or CNC. Chemical cutting, more commonly known as oxy-fuel, uses heat and oxygen to rapidly “rust” through ferrous materials and create a cut.

Angle Grinders with cutoff discs, chop saws, and metal bandsaws are all powerful tools that cut metal mechanically. Always take note of where the cutting action takes place and be sure to keep clear of it. If it can slice through steel it can slice through your body with ease. Take note of safety guards built into the machines and ensure they are fitted secure and proper. A damaged guard should be replaced immediately and under no circumstances should a toolguard be removed. If a guard is “in the way” of a cut you’re trying to make then it means you need a different tool for the job.

Plasma cutters use high voltage and pressurized atmosphere to create an extremely hot cutting torch that can slice through anything conductive that is part of its circuit. This means that exotic metals like stainless can be cleanly cut without contamination. However, this utility comes with unique hazards. A plasma arc should be respected much the same as a welding arc. Wear good torch shades and make sure you are positioned clear of the blast through on the side opposite the cut. And remember: if you don’t want to end up like Luke Skywalker at the end of Empire, never lean a part against your body while cutting it with plasma or put any body parts you intend to keep in the circuit while the cutter is in use.

Cutting chemically with the combination of combustible fuel and pressurized oxygen is one of the oldest processes in modern welding. Acetylene gas, due to its low cost, is extremely common in oxy-fuel rigs. The downside is that a tablespoon full of acetylene has the same explosive potential as a quarter stick of dynamite. Since it is denser than atmosphere, if there are leaks in a rig the gas will collect on the floor where an errant spark may ignite it. Standards for the safe use and handling of acetylene do exist, but at DMS for the time being it has been deemed too hazardous to keep in the shop. Incidents in the past with regulators not being attached properly and fires breaking out made it too much of a risk. Injuries resulting from other cutting processes can be very serious to the operator, but an acetylene explosion has the potential to harm a great number of people at once.

The last thing we’ll discuss before moving onto environmental hazards are grinders. The humble angle grinder is going to be one of your best friends in the shop. With a multitude of attachments and discs the grinder is the king of material removal, polishing, and many mechanical cutting tasks. Because of how much you’ll end up using them it’s important to familiarize yourself with the special dangers presented by this tool. As mentioned above, always keep the disc guard on the grinder and use grinder discs rated for the size and RPM of your tool. If a disc won’t fit on your grinder with the guard in place, removing the guard is never the right answer.

Grinding stones, cutoff discs, and wire wheels deserve special attention because it is not really a matter of if these attachments will fail but when. If you notice a crack or any damage to a cutoff disc or grinding stone dispose of it. It isn’t worth the risk to use a damaged disk that may fail and explode at high speeds throwing shrapnel across the shop. Wire wheels are rapidly spinning brushes usually made from thin wires of stainless steel. As they wear from use it is common for small pieces of these wires to break off and become projectiles. No matter what kind of task you’re doing with a grinder not only should you wear your safety glasses but an extra layer of protection in the form of a grinding shield must be worn. A quick google image search can pull up all sorts of grisly accidents resulting from improper grinder use without the correct PPE. Don’t become a cautionary tale! Always wear your safety gear!

Now some words on Shop Safety…

Whenever you enter the welding shop before you jump onto a project always do a quick inspection for potential hazards. Are there any flammable materials on the floor or tables? Oily shop rags in the corner? Perhaps a container of acetone someone was using to de-grease a project? Good housekeeping can prevent injuries and in some cases even save lives. Even something as seemingly innocent as grinder dust left on the floor can create a thin slippery layer on smooth concrete, resulting in a slip and nasty fall against the hard edge of the welding table.

The DMS welding shop makes use of gases stored under high pressure in cylinders. Are those cylinders secured by their chains? Do the cylinders currently not in use have their protective caps screwed in place? Youtube has plenty of videos of high pressure cylinders becoming missiles when their taps are damaged or broken. For your own safety and for the safety of others out in the warehouse always keep an eye on our cylinders and ensure they’re stored properly.

Make sure that our ventilation system is in good working order before you begin. Fumes from welding, particularly stick (SMAW) and flux-core (FCAW) can cause short term discomfort and long term illness without proper ventilation. We want you to be welding happily for the long haul so don’t cut your career short by inhaling flux fumes.

I understand that this may seem like a lot of responsibility to take on especially if welding is only going to be a small part of a larger project. DMS is often called a “do-acracy” If you want something done, do it! I should point out that the converse is true: if nobody does it, it doesn’t get done. The responsibility of creating and maintaining a safe place to do our work rests on all our shoulders. When you’re working in the shop keep an eye out for others. When you work with a partner inspect yourselves to make sure you’re being safe with tools and using the proper PPE. When your task is completed and you’re ready to go, do a quick sweep and ensure the shop is ready for the next welder.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! And if you follow the safety principles outlined in this short guide you’ll go a long way towards preventing serious injuries to you and the rest of the membership at DMS! Thanks for reading.

Links of interest!

The most up to date version of the Standards this guide is based on: http://www.aws.org/standards/page/ansi-z491

The brand of gloves I prefer. Tilman makes lots of welding products, I suggest you browse.
https://www.amazon.com/John-Tillman-Co-Premium-Straight/dp/B000J2JT7O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503253517&sr=8-3&keywords=tillman+mig+gloves

The leather welding cape I use, many cheaper options exist but I can vouch for this one personally:
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Stallion-Cowhide-Welding-Sleeve/dp/B003PCWJRW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503363709&sr=8-2&keywords=leather+welding+cape

Much cheaper fire retardant cloth welding jacket:
https://www.amazon.com/IRONCAT-7050-XL-Irontex-Cotton/dp/B007QTC7X6/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1503254043&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=fire+resistant+welding+jacket

Welding sleeves I’ve used:
https://www.amazon.com/IRONCAT-7071-18-Irontex-Sleeves/dp/B0081JGZ2E/ref=sr_1_8?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1503253681&sr=1-8&keywords=welding+sleeves

Inexpensive welding cap:
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Stallion-BC5B-BLU-Cotton-Beanie/dp/B003S6YLDA/ref=sr_1_7?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1503254155&sr=1-7&keywords=welding+cap

Jackson makes good products, here are their torch shades:
https://www.amazon.com/Jackson-3004761-Nemesis-Cutting-Glasses/dp/B001VXTC2W/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1503254300&sr=1-1&keywords=torch+shades

Side shields for prescription glasses:
https://www.amazon.com/Bouton-Sideshields-glasses-Flexible-99705/dp/B000RMJ368/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1503253726&sr=1-1&keywords=safety+side+shields+for+glasses

Boots very similar to the ones I wear:
https://www.amazon.com/Wolverine-Floorhand-Waterproof-Steel-Brown/dp/B01ITL8EI6/ref=sr_1_cc_3?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1503253791&sr=1-3-catcorr&keywords=wolverine+boot+steel+toe

Much cheaper than a new pair of boots, but offers good protection!
https://www.amazon.com/AP-9100-split-cowhide-welding-protectors/dp/B071D78ZXT/ref=sr_1_2?s=apparel&ie=UTF8&qid=1503253875&sr=8-2&keywords=welding+spat

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I think this looks great! As mentioned in the other thread, I’d like to see a bird’s eye view on the processes…
If I can find it, I’ve got something that should work, floating in the ether somewhere, but I reckon you’ll have yours done before I can find it…
:slight_smile:

I’d like to add on. The regulator adjustment knob needs to be backed out, not completely but until you can not feel tension. Additionally stand off to the side (opposite regulator) when you open cylinders, open the valves fully with the exception being on acetylene or other fuel gas.

If for some reason you use acetylene, never exceed 15 psig on the low pressure side. Additionally never consume more that 1/7th of the volume in per hour. They should never be stored on their sides as the acetone in the acetylene will eat away at the valve.

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I was surprised to find I had an outline. I feel like its current format is still usable!

Oxy-Fuel Welding

	-The oldest industrial welding technique.
	-No longer common in the welding world.

Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW)

	-AKA "Stick" is over a hundred years old.
	-Is still around and one of the most versatile types of welding.
	-Uses consumable electrodes coated in flux.
	-Ideal for outdoor welding environments.

Gas Metal Arc Welding (GMAW or MIG)

	-Has really caught on over the last 30 years.
	-FAST: What it may sacrifice in terms of strength it makes up for in raw production.
	-Commonly not as hot nor as strong as SMAW.
	-Unlike SMAW, GMAW machines are complex and the consumables require a shielding gas 
              such as  argon or an argon CO2 blend. 
	-Creates a very uniform and attractive bead.
	-Can be used to weld many different metals: Mild  Steel, Stainless Steel, Aluminum...etc.    

Flux-Core Arc Welding (FCAW)

	-One of the most used forms of welding in the industry.
	-Usually only used for Mild Steels.
	-Self shielding FCAW wire exists, but gas is usually either necessary or preferable.
	- Has a strength equivalent to SMAW.

Gas Tungsten Arc Welding (GTAW or TIG)

	-Strong, precise, and capable of welding the widest variety of materials.
	-Machine set up is not as complex as MIG or Flux core, but not as easy as Stick.
	-Subtler than most forms of welding, it requires dexterity. Some machines use a foot pedal to 		      
               control heat. Common electrode polarity is negative, meaning the workpiece heats up 			      
               considerably. It is something that requires much practice with to become skilled.
	-Very gentle welding process. No sparks or BB's.
	-While all welding machines use consumables, TIG  has tungsten electrodes which must be 
               sharpened and wear out over time along with filler metals. 

Spot Welding

	-Different from other processes. Not "Arc"  welding but resistance welding.
	-Spot welding is commonly used in automated  production of sheet metal parts. Automobile 			 
               assembly is a good example. 
	-No filler metal is needed and metal is fused in a fraction of a second.
	-Disadvantages: Only for thin pieces of  material. Does not usually make "beads."
	-Advantages: still a legitimate form of welding and does not need extra parts such as "pop 			 
             rivets." Exceedingly simple to operate.

Yeah, I don’t know if they fixed it with modern regulators, but in the old days if someone left a knob turned and you opened the cylinder the rapid pressure change could turn that knob into a projectile. Better to be safe than sorry!

Another thing I feel I should have made some mention of somewhere…we don’t weld galvanized materials in the DMS shop. Zinc isn’t too bad when it’s in its solid state, but when it vaporizes and bonds with atmosphere to make zinc oxide it becomes a nasty hazard. Mild neurological damage commonly known as “brass shakes.”

There are ways to mitigate this problem, but as a rule for the shop? Let’s weather treat our projects after we’ve welded them.

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I have a friend that I work with who had a hole blew in his leg from a regulator.

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Let’s hope that this guide helps to keep that from happening at the Makerspace.

I don’t want to test the water tightness of our liability waiver!

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Looks great!
I’ll make this suggestion: let’s include the “alternate name” and what its acronym stands for more clearly:

Oxy-Fuel Welding (e.g. oxy-acetylene)

-The oldest industrial welding technique.
-No longer common in the welding world.

Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW) (aka “stick”)

-Over a hundred years old.
-Is still around and one of the most versatile types of welding.
-Uses consumable electrodes coated in flux.
-Ideal for outdoor welding environments.

Gas Metal Arc Welding (GMAW) aka Metal Inert Gas (MIG)

-Has really caught on over the last 30 years.
-FAST: What it may sacrifice in terms of strength it makes up for in raw production.
-Commonly not as hot nor as strong as SMAW.
-Unlike SMAW, GMAW machines are complex and the consumables require a shielding gas 
          such as  argon or an argon CO2 blend. 
-Creates a very uniform and attractive bead.
-Can be used to weld many different metals: Mild  Steel, Stainless Steel, Aluminum...etc.    

Flux-Core Arc Welding (FCAW)

-One of the most used forms of welding in the industry.
-Usually only used for Mild Steels.
-Self shielding FCAW wire exists, but gas is usually either necessary or preferable.
- Has a strength equivalent to SMAW.

Gas Tungsten Arc Welding (GTAW) aka Tungsten Inert Gas (TIG)

-Strong, precise, and capable of welding the widest variety of materials.
-Machine set up is not as complex as GMAW or FCAW, but not as easy as SMAW.
-Subtler than most forms of welding, it requires dexterity. Some machines use a foot pedal to 		      
           control heat. Common electrode polarity is negative, meaning the workpiece heats up 			      
           considerably. It is something that requires much practice with to become skilled.
-Very gentle welding process. No sparks or BB's.
-While all welding machines use consumables, GTAW  has tungsten electrodes which must be 
         sharpened and wear out over time along with filler metals. 
-thoriated electrodes raise concerns over irradiation, mostly overblown

Spot Welding

-Different from other processes. Not "Arc"  welding but resistance welding.
-Spot welding is commonly used in automated  production of sheet metal parts. Automobile 			 
           assembly is a good example. 
-No filler metal is needed and metal is fused in a fraction of a second.
-Disadvantages: Only for thin pieces of  material. Does not usually make "beads."
-Advantages: still a legitimate form of welding and does not need extra parts such as "pop 			 
         rivets." Exceedingly simple to operate.

Obviously, you can pitch that in the bin if it’s not helpful.
Great work!
EDIT: I agree. We should be VERY CLEAR about the galvanized and/or electroplated and/or galvanic plating, zinc plating, etc. for exactly the reasons you outline. We DO harp a bit on it in the PlasmaCAM classes, and it’s posted on the walls, and I think, like safety glasses and hearing protection, should be endemic.

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Need to add in no welding on galvanized metal, extremely hazardous fumes… How it can be removed from area to be welded, etc.

Great work!!!

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Thanks. I bet it could be inserted in there somewhere in the shop/environmental hazards section or where ventilation is discussed.

I need to put together a SMAW and GMAW theory/care and feeding guide since those are the two processes I use the most. Even with this general safety guide some specifics can be addressed like how to swap out cylinders, inspect hoses, and how to use regulators properly as it was mentioned above.

Demand is definitely there for classes and I’d be glad to do them, my time is just really tight with my profession. The more we can take care of online the better. I want to really get down and dirty in the shop with minimal lecture.

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No, I dig it.

I think this was good to post here as helpful comments and tweaks can be suggested by the community at large.

We’re going to get this thing worked out.

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BTW some of this info is good for other committees, jewlery and casting needs
the shoe protectors

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Sure enough, took me forever to find where I’d stashed this, and it turns out it’s just a link.


if you go through that…stub that I put out there, it’ll show you a link to this
http://www.weldingtypes.net/
which I think does a pretty nice job of explaining each type.
So, I was RIGHT that I’d kept a description somewhere, and that it’d take forEVER for me to find it, but totally WRONG about it being mine!

Here is the audio for Andrew Floyd’s Welding Safety Course given back in February 2015.

His presentation is lively and easy to listen to.

You can download it and listen to it at your convenience on your mp3 player.

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Thanks! I had forgotten about this.

Your lecture had gone away from Soundcloud for a while as I had uploaded another class and exceeded the very small limit that Soundcloud provides for an unpaid subscription. I eliminated one of the other classes to make yours available.

I would make more classes available if I could do it without having to pay a fee.

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Possible solution: Can they be saved or produced using the Adobe Creative Cloud Suite the Space does subscribe to? They can be put on YouTube or our server.

Great - how do I get them onto the DMS server?

Easiest way to connect to the committee drive and put it in the committee folder. Look for a folder that either reads “Training” or a folder for that tool. Place it there, then go to the committee wiki page and under that tool put in a link.

Then you become a Makerspace Super Hero!

Thanks for all your work!

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As a new member and someone who intends to learn how to weld, I am impressed by the interest and work I am seeing by the more knowledgeable members in improving the training at DMS.

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