I’ll toss a different point of view here. When I was shooting USPSA and IDPA and trying to win, my weekly practice budget was 3000 rounds of 40S&W. I shot an SVI full race gun, a limited gun, and a Glock36 in the production classes. I reloaded them all on a Dillon 650. I scrounged brass every where I could get it, and some of it looked mighty poor. It can’t all be Starline brass.
I used plain old walnut, and a capful of mequires wipe on polish, and everything came out looking the same - nice and clean, with a slight burnish to it. I prefer that to high polish, because I don’t want anything on my gun to shine. It was cheap, worked a treat.
If you like shiny. you can get a pretty decent shine just by using corn cob and meguires. (If the brass is nasty, run it through the walnut hulls first). I used pecan hulls actually - I’d go down to the pecan cracker in november or so, and they’d let me have 50# of it for the effort of bagging it. You don’t have to grind the hulls for pistol ammo, the case mouths are decent size.
I’ll say, that if stainless pins were around (or perhaps I had just heard of them), I’d have sure tried them.
I don’t recommend depriming before tumbling, Pistol primer pockets won’t normally hang up the primer seating on a little residue, and you can decap and prime on the press at speed. Picking walnut hulls or other media out of flash holes isn’t my idea of fun. If you don’t get it picked completly out of there, the reduced burn in the powder chamber can cause a lot of auto-loaders to short-cycle.
I’d be careful to use a waxed rouge too - you don’t want anything on the round that holds moisture.