Surface mount disaster

I hope I did these photos right. I’m on mobile.

Ok any one with some SMD experience here?

What did I do wrong?

Here’s my story, briefly. I decide I want to build a new computer. I start out thinking I just need something newer than my current 14 yr old laptop to do computer science homework on. Over time, researching, I do what I do and decide it’s got to be the best. Spend shitloads of money. But I’m not a millionaire. Or even a thousandaire at the moment. (Back in school). So I hunt for parts on eBay. Find some good deals. Ok.

I get a video card. Great deal. Should have been suspicious. It mostly works. After literally hours of troubleshooting I figure out that the computer repeatedly crashes because the GPU. It’s after about a new power supply and replace motor parts. Card mostly worked, so It was tough to diagnose. I make arrangements to sell it back, I mean send it back to the seller but then out of curiosity and desperation to if I take the top off and this random part is clearly out of place- 0.33uH power choke.
https://goo.gl/images/PsKEzy
https://goo.gl/images/bH26ps
That one. Marked r33. Now I have soldering gear, a fairly Full set up but it should be noted I’m terrible at shouldering. 90% a time I get cold solder joints. I can’t seem to figure out what I’m doing wrong. Anyway, I take my soldering gun, and solder the piece back down. Mine didn’t explode like the pictures it was just half hanging off. Apparently it’s a common problem and the MOSFET next to it actually is typically fine for whatever reason.

I sold her back down and beat it up and run the car through a benchmark/stress test and it worked perfectly for the first time ever. I do a little jig. Went to double check and read it a second time this time it crashed like before. The next four times it crashes again. So this point I know I had fixed it but then it unfixed. I take the piece of 20 double check and read it a second time this time it crashed like before. The next four times it crashes again. So this point I know I had fixed it but then it unfixed. I take the card apart again and that damn little piece just straight up falls out when I take the top off. OK. Like I said my soldering sucks.

So! Then I think o need to reflow it. I order some paste. I’ve never done it before. But I’ve seen it done. And I have a heat gun. The real kind for this purpose. No oven but it’s a focal problem.

I get two kinds. Low temp silver bearing lead free (~165c) and regular tin lead. I can get the exact types of needed.

So I practice on some other boards. It goes swimmingly. I am thinking to myself solder paste where have you been all my life. I make several practice joints, solder some SMT stuff down on protoboards things like that.

Then I turn to the real piece. At this point I know that the component works despite my abuse with the soldering gun the day prior. Importantly I had a very hard time getting solder to melt. Even on my max temp of 480. There is a lot of copper/ heat management underneath this piece I think. So with the gun I tried for a few hours before deciding smt reflow was the way to go.

I had done it perfectly on the protoboards no problem. I decided the low temp stuff melted too fast- and because I was worried that it was heat that destroyed this component in the first place - I decided on the high temp.
—process starts here—
Put it down put the component down, get the small heat gun tip, and go to it. This. Solder. Will. Not. Melt.
I have the heat on it- for probably way too long. I’ve tried to shield the surrounding bits - but the whole card- several inches away is getting hot.

I cut my losses. Scrape up the now dry powder crud. Dry and not melted. I try again with less. Same thing. Ok so I can’t get it hot enough. Try again this time with lots of flux and the solder paste -which I think has its own.

Now I try the low temp stuff. This stuff transitioned almost too fast before. At like 160C. I know operating temp of this card can be like 100C so I didn’t want to use it. But I did.

It. Will. Not. Melt. Again. Heat gun at recommended temp. Then up to 365C. +100. I finally, FINALLY get it to transition and join buy holding the heat gun over in AND touching the solder iron at 480c (set, actually cooler unless you hit it right at peak cycle). But yea it’s a LOT of heat. And it melts and joins.

That’s all well and good, but resistance is now 0 across the part. Should be low- couple ohms , but 0 is bad.

I think maybe solder bridge between pads. Take part off. Nothing. Looks good. Try the part. It’s in continuity. Pretty sure I’ve killed it. I’m not surprised.

I measure some of the nearby inductors, R22 in the pics. They’re now in continuity too. Oops. I think I damaged several with heat.

I can still clean up my mess and send it back to the guy. I have 0 guilt- because I should mention it was sold to me as perfectly working, always well cared for etc. and I should mention when I took it apart it looked like this part that was hanging and been previously attempted to be repaired. So he lied to me in the first place. If I was able to fix it I would still have negotiated some money back.

Anyway- a few questions for the tech gurus out there. What did I do wrong?? It should have had more than enough heat, even the low temp stuff wouldn’t melt. It melts fine on the protoboards as soon as you get a foot away. I was right on top of it.

I know it likely has to do with the thermal management of the board, the heat was being spread quickly elsewhere I guess. Should I have used paste and a tip instead of air?

Can this card be fixed?

I’m not sure what’s been destroyed. Certainly some of those inductors. I have some of the r33 on the way, but not the r22. I can get some but it means waiting another weak for mouser. I don’t think tanner has these SMT parts. Maybe the space has some or one of you guys.

Do you think more than r22 and r33 are bad now- some of the surrounding parts? I ordered some more of the mosfets they were cheap. But I will likely
Have sent it back before it gets here.

How can I test some of these other components (with only a basic multimeter, a resistor, or capacitor, a paper clip and bubble gum?)

I put the card in and it’s more dead than before, confirming suspicions. No image at all now. I might have killed it by running it- as I know that inductor chokes the power to the DRAM and could have cooked it.

This was supposed to be an easy repair! Just a little heat gun rejoin the parts and rock and roll. And somehow, which seems like it always happens when I get a soldering gun- things have ended up so much worse.

I didn’t want to try and oven it, because a, it was a focal problem. And b, I don’t have one. Sorry this is too long.

I’ve got some SMD experience. You going to be at the space tomorrow or Thursday? I’m taking the Sherline Mill and Lathe classes, and I could meet up to help you out before or after.

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This line pops out at me. You say it is a common failure of the card. I ask why? what causes this part to separate from the board? is it getting so hot that the solder is wetting and allowing the piece to de-solder? Or, is there a mechanical process that is tearing this component off? Based on the leads still being on the board, I question the mechanical issue. Solder with proper flux and a soldering iron with adequate heating mass should make this a quick job.

I would suggest coming up to dms and using one of the irons there with as large of a chisel tip as you can find. Also, use FLUX, more than you think you might need. It will make your life much easier. If your part is still coming off, possibly look into an adhesive option to help the solder hold the component.

I think it may be time for you to clean up what you can, take step back, go do something else for awhile (whiskey nit at a bar is helpful) and then come back to this in a day or two. I was exhausted half way through just reading this so you must be hella frazzled and that can be even more detrimental to your project. Good luck, I hope you get it working. Don’t be like me and get so fed up soldering you throw your on and extremely hot iron across your room… possibly burning a hole in some papers lol.

Why? I don’t know. Run a search for it. You’ll see people who know much more electronics than me
Say it actually makes no sense. There is a good amount of debate. There was even an hour long YouTube video just showing examples. What seems to baffle most people who know electronics is that the MOSFET connecting through it survives fine. But the presumably high current inductor- rated at least 10A blows.

As to why mine was lifted? I suspect it blew. Someone tried to repair it. Then it separates again. My repair also separated. Why? No idea. I assumed a cold joint, which I mentioned I get a lot. Although I had it socked down pretty good. It’s rated at 125C which could be a culprit. But if you google it, these things literally blow up.
https://goo.gl/images/LeMaJr
https://goo.gl/images/zpm1ZL
https://goo.gl/images/PsKEzy
https://goo.gl/images/wEC6FM
https://goo.gl/images/pPJ4cj
https://goo.gl/images/Sn87Qc
https://goo.gl/images/BHeFDC
https://goo.gl/images/kX1EXz
https://goo.gl/images/MXdm9G
https://goo.gl/images/D2rsvd
https://goo.gl/images/PwUumM
https://goo.gl/images/sbjipp

Here’s a description of a similar circuit labeled
https://goo.gl/images/Pdnxqz

A discussion on this problem? I only skimmed it-

The video.

But why. I don’t know. My knowledge of electronics is limited to lighting an led. Sometimes.

I don’t think you’re too far down the hole to make repairs, and like I said, I’ll be at the space if you need help tomorrow or Thursday afternoon either before or after the Sherline classes.

I would just tell you what to do, but it’s hard without putting an iron or hot air on it myself to see what’s what.

If you wanted to order some of those inductors from somewhere, we would have a higher chance of repair. Off the top of my head, Tanner won’t have something that small and high current on hand.

No I can still send it back and I intend too. For a full refund. That probably got lost in the long post. I just happen to like to fix things. I’m not worried about the card. I’m not out any money (other than $15 at mouser for inductors and $20 at Amazon for paste).

Schematics would be nice. But if a big ol’ inductor is hanging off one pad it doesn’t take a rocket scientist (or electronics expert) to surmise what the problem might be. I usually operate under the assumption, which granted I can’t back up, that things were attached to the circuit board for a reason.

Reattaching the inductor to the pads corrected the issue. Again not rocket science.

The pictures above are where I’ve gone ahead and removed both the pieces, including a working one and cleaned it up with some copper solder sucking mesh.

So it’s cleaned up now.

The question is mostly thermals. I know how to fix the card. Or I did. Reattach the powerchoke to its pad. Should have been easy.

The problem was the thermals. Even under high heat that solder would not melt. Even with the aluminum heat spreader in place over the adjacent parts. But the bizarre part that was with lots of heat it wouldn’t melt. It just “dried”. I tried flux and it started to run everywhere. I mostly didn’t use it because I was focusing on 2 giant pads and just needed paste on the 2 pads. I didn’t need it to run into a bunch of little IC pads.

So 1) why would it get plenty hot but not melt. I suspect the heat was spreading quickly. But it should have been enough.

  1. With the thermal damage I’ve done, I’m wondering what I should try and replace next. Nothing is a valid option. Send it back, but a new one.

Whatever. That’s the wimpy way out. The problem is this should have been a super easy fix. I don’t know the whole schematic, but I didn’t really need to. It was just insert A in A’.

I don’t know why these parts are commonly blowing. It’s odd, especially when the mosfet survives, and did in my case, but don’t need to know that either. Like I said, I suspect it’s thermals.

And I can get the pieces off just fine. I’ve taken them off again in the pics. They’re bad now though. I think I likely melted the jacketing that surrounds the winding. The weird part is, I think I’ve done it to all of them. Even the ones 2” away (using a 1/8” aperture heat gun at 260C.).

1- That tells me there’s a good bit of copper under this column of inductors. And 2. That these inductors are not heat friendly.

I just needed to reattach one part with a large joint- which you can see in the cleaned pics. It’s like hitting the broadside of a barn. And like I said, that compound transitioned in under a second on a breadboard. But did nothing in several minutes on this board. It was bizarre. I don’t know Maybe there was too much scorched flux on the board covering the pad. I cleaned with acetone but that might have been after. That’s the main point. Why wouldn’t this solder paste transition. Hot enough to likely damage the nearby components, but not melt low temp solder. Yea right.

So, looking at the neighboring ics and capacitors - which are solid state- they should be pretty hardy right? It’s just ego at this point. It makes little
Financial sense to try and repair it in the first place and to repair it now. It pisses me off that it worked 100% when it was reattached the 1st time. I suspect it worked when the eBay seller reattached it, tested it, and resold it. Then separated again for me, and then was repaired by me, then separated again. Then when trying to reflow it, i cooked additional parts. If I replace all the inductors do you think it’ll post, or am I looking at all the Mosfets and capacitors too now? I know the identity of the mosfet:

I imagine the parts have to be at least a little heat hardened to survive the initial build. But I’m not sure how hot I got it. I should have hooked up a thermocouple. Or used my laser, if I had a 3rd hand.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/on-semiconductor/ntmfs4c10nt1g/?qs=8%2bXDBfnGdByu12Q8qtYzag%3D%3D&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD

And these are the inductors. Similar anyway.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/wurth-electronics/744373580022/?qs=HXx4m3XcTe3eQgE9psjzOg%3D%3D&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/laird/mgv0625r33m-10/?qs=HVbQlW5zcXUfiLTLdv8Dbw%3D%3D&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD

The capacitors are capacitors. Haven’t looked them up. But if I’m looking at replacing the entire VRM section, I’ll pass.

Also. I’m presuming their dead based on a 0-0.2 ohm reading. Which could be wrong. Both my meters will drift up to 0.4 with just tips touching though. I can’t remember what it read before. It was low. But not that low.

Except the data sheet does say max resistance is 3.2 mOhms.

So then 0 would be correct right?

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I think I should have preheated the whole board. To like 150-180, then used the heat gun. I. Think that was the problem. As it was the heat I was applying was just runnnjng out to the cool parts of the board.

Once preheated, the gradient would have been smaller. I could have swapped it

Or I was thinking, maybe the mosfet is bad and that’s why it pops off? I would expect it to fail though. Not pop off- it’s a big pad.

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I didn’t know that existed. And I was having a lot of trouble just using a standard iron. Getting it off was easy. Maybe it’s my technique. I said I was poor at best.

I guess I though surface mount == reflow.

Oh well I’m gonna send it back anyway. I called him out on having sold me a repaired card in the first place and misrepresented it as like new. And he capitulated immediately.

Would rather have fixed it though.

I found some guy familiar with the issue who had some writing online.

He seemed to indicate that a) yes it’s the most common point of failure. (And makes an argument it’s planned obsolescence pointing out the size of the pad and the size of the component- as if they knew they needed a beefier choke. And b) even once fixed- the dram is usually damaged. I didn’t notice that- but then I don’t really play video games. So I don’t really use the dram either to be able to tell. But then I don’t want to pay for a busted one.

A metcal iron alone may not do it, but one way or another we do have the equipment here to get that soldered properly. An actual board preheater would be ideal, used exactly as you said, but we have a heat gun that should get the job done almost as easily.

You’re right about thermal gradients being the source of your trouble, but it’s hard to overstate how much heating power you need to use to overcome this problem when you’re working on a heatsink of a board like that one. You end up needing a lot more power than you think at first.

You should bring it in and at least get the inductor back on and see if it works. I’m here most of the time and I’m happy to help do it. I too am really interested in getting to the bottom of this but I don’t have one to play around with. If we can get it working we can monitor the temperature and current while it’s in operation and see what it will take to fix the design problem. It’s easy to say just throw a bigger inductor at it, but that isn’t very fun or scientific.

I have new parts coming in later this week. I could think about coming up there early next week.

I went back to school for computer science in January. which is why I was building a new computer- for the homework. My 14 yr old laptop wouldn’t run the programming environment very well. But between that and work, I haven’t had any time to get up there, so I actually put my membership on hold for now.

So I guess I’m not really supposed to. I guess I could reactivate it for a month. Or sneak in. But that was a big reason why I did it at home. That and I thought I had all the right tools.

Ground plane- yea, I think that’s what I need to learn about. And learn about soldering too. I was trying to test the parts yesterday with a multimeter and I was starting to think they might actually not be fried. It’s hard when all I can measure is resistance and voltage drop. I guess I could look at a pcie pic out and put power on the card with a PSU. But I’d be a bit nervous doing that.

It’s definitely disturbing that I get no image now. My computer sometimes doesn’t like to post with it in. But sometimes it does. I’m still left with no image.

To test, and I don’t know if I can really do this, I’m using the diode testing function where it passes a current through and measures a delta V.

There is an instantaneous V gradient across it that settles at 0. Now I don’t know if the machine is “settling” or there really is a dv/dt gradient. I might stick them back on there. I’m also waiting for the new parts now though. And the guy already gave me back my money. I don’t want to screw It up too bad. Then again he lied to me about condition. So I’m not that sorry. I was getting weird crashes at the very beginning. I asked him about it first. He assured me he always owned it, never used it, never had problems. So I went out and bought a new power supply ($140) and new RAM ($120) so his lying already cost me a good bit. I can make him refund me more than I paid. Anyway. I dot 6 of the R33 and only 3 of the R22. (On the card Are 2 and 8 respectively) but I only had problems with the r33 when i ordered. Maybe I should order more r22 real quick. And replace all of them. The problem is though is figuring out how much of the circuit to replace. When I might have just cooked it already, or shorted it when I tried to run it with the one I reseated.

Independent testing I’ve read people say that in an open air test it hits 114C. (Room temp 22C). Inside a computer case with poor air circulation the ambient temp can be like 35C. That alone would put you over the thermal spec of 125C. I’ve definitely heated over that now… but it has to be able to withstand some excursions up there or else you’d never be able to reflow it in the first place. There’s a cut out in the heat spreader (which I think you can see in my pics) for these inductors- which ends up creating a space with the board on the bottom, the heat spreader around and the heat sink on top, which if anything is radiating more heat back down, which eventually causes thermal runaway.

EVGA- the manufacturer most plagued, and my mfg, is giving out free VRM hestsinks after the problem was pointed out.

Yet, this is a problem on the 780/780 ti board (2013), 980/980ti(mine) (2014) and finally written about in terms of the 1080/1080ti, (2015- present). I just can’t imagine they didn’t know about this - warranty returns and all that. The problem is that they are making the top spec of each year equal to the second highest the following model edition. Ie a 780Ti is as fast as a 1060 now. A 980ti is as fast as a 1070 and a 1080ti is a 1080ti, but probably the same speed as the upcoming. GTx 1170 later this year. So. I wonder if it IS in fact a planned obsolescence thing. It would have cost them pennies to up the headroom on this.

I think it’s spec’ed at 30 amps and runs at 28 amps at peak (stock) load. But you can overclock, etc. I think current is oscillating through the inductor at this 1000 MHz (or maybe that’s later) over clocked up to 1700 maybe? Don’t quote me on those numbers. But if it is oscillating through this inductor at 1 GHz I’d imagine it puts a big load on the inductor. Actually I think it’d be huge. Maybe current isn’t oscillating through it. Anyway. My point is they must have known for years these things were blowing and did nothing through 2 redesigns.

Most people that have a card die just say damn it died and throw it away. They don’t open it up to see why it died. Otherwise it doesnt make sense. They are operating right at spec using 5% components. And 28 A out of 30 A max is 93% already. Thermal runaway happens at 125C they say. And they didn’t bother to cool it. Even I was thinking, when I saw the spec sheet and hadn’t read anything else, that if I got this running I’d throw a little finned Aluminum heat sink I have lying around on it.

Update: new inductors came yesterday. Went ahead and replaced both 0.33uH inductors. This time I used low temp silver bearing paste, skipped the heat gun except to heat the board a little and just used an iron to melt the paste and draw it to the components pads.

Started right up and works great.

I’ll still probably send it back. I proved my point that it’s fixable. And there’s some evidence that the DRAM does in fact have some damage. It does have some artifacting. Icons sometimes show up as static and when running a DX 11 bench it goes all crazy.

Also, I had to clear CMOS for the card to output correctly. And I wonder if maybe it worked last time, I just couldn’t get it to figure out how to output- switching between embedded and discrete video out.

It’s been up and running 12 hours. And before it ran maybe 60 min tops before crashing and never completed a benchmark.

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That seems like kind of a crummy thing to do. Even if the seller didn’t disclose a repair attempt, he agreed to take it back in good faith. Once you use something as a soldering experiment, it seems like you should own it.

Seems like if money is tight and you are not good at soldering, and you want to save your investment, that’s a good time to ask for help. That’s the nice thing about the makerspace–you can find help when you need it.

One thing to be aware of: 97% of electronics relaited material on Youtube is made by people with no more electronics knowledge than you. Also, 97% of the overclocker/modder crowd knows nothing of electronics, so when most youtubers are baffled by some phenomenon, it may not mean much.

Help was offered even.

Man, you guys are making me feel like an asshole. What did I do to you?

Help was offered. I got some good advice. Went back at it. Was successful.

Because I ask for help doesn’t always mean I want someone to do it for me. Actually, to clarify, if I ask for help on how to do something, I NEVER want someone to do it for me. I am trying to learn.

If I just wanted to repair it, i wouldn’t even take it to the makerspace. I’d take it to a repair shop. But learning how is worth more to me than failing or reading preach messages.

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That wasn’t my intent at all, just that the issue you were having could have been 10 different things, and it’s hard to diagnose it from photos and text. I would have to have seen it to better help you.

I believe some people are offended by the thought of return fraud. I don’t know enough about the details to make judgements about your relationship with the seller, but that may have been what set some people off.

…like this one.

Actually he was quite thankful. But thanks for your opinion.

Now he gets back something he can sell as working instead of for parts. He is very happy. If he chooses to disclose a repair, it’s up to him.
I got better at soldering and repair in exchange. I’ve don’t some more SMT work in the meantime. And gotten progressively better results. Along with delving a bunch more into the topic on - doh- YouTube. I’ve discovered several sources for the error. Most relevant being the temperature readout on my rework station is not even remotely accurate. Or is it my laser themometer that’s bad? Who knows.

I just don’t want it anymore. I already got a better one. It’s a convoluted issue that I’m handling on the eBay end. I got that part. I just asked for some help with the soldering. Let stay focused on that.

Help was offered. Help was received. I got help. I appreciate all the help I got. I’m not sure what you’re going on about. Jeez. If I felt like it was something I needed additional eyes on, I’d have gotten them -trust me. But to make one big ass joint on a board. Nah. 5 min to solder here at my workshop where I have most the gear that’s up at the DMS already. 3 hrs to drive up there and do it. Didn’t count on the additional hour two hours re-explaining of course that it is in fact a ‘chip shot’ and repaired fine and everything is on the up and up with my eBay seller. We had to communicate to get on the same page. I didn’t trust him. It was just a single tombstoned inductor.

It works fine now. Underwent 72 hours of stress testing with out a single fault. That’s unusual for even a brand new card. It’s like you’re telling me that only a surgeon can put on a band aid. Even if I learned to put on a bandaid on YouTube.

It was an easy repair, even for someone who knows “as little about electronics as me “ :slight_smile: at Issue, was just unexpected behavior of the paste. I still need to figure out if the temp readout on the station is bad. Or if it really was the ground plane. I need a third temp device I trust. That paste still behaves weird sometimes, so maybe my technique is still off. But I can handle that too, thanks. I don’t do this for a living, no. But my desire is to learn how to do it. Not just do it. Money is an issue in that I’m frugal. Not in the sense that if I blow $300 on a video card I won’t make rent. I bought an $800 one while I was sorting this out (to bring my score up- see below).

97% sounds high. There’s a lot of electronics on there. Are you sure it’s all been modified by overclokers on YouTube? If by overclocker on YouTube you mean underpaid wage slave labor in China, then yea I basically agree. We just have different names for the same thing.

Whenever I face an issue, I make an assessment. Can I correct this? Do I need help? How much help do I need? I prefer to do things myself rather than have someone do it for me. Next time that can I fix it line is just a little bit further ahead. It’s the best way to learn. If it’s way out of my league, I usually leave it. Next time though I’ll just let you do it for me though and spare myself the long response.

Am I an overclocker/modder. Hmm maybe this month and last month. I learned all about it. Overclocked my machine to 5ghz. Scores in the 98%ile. Just need a few more part to break into the top. This project is about done. Then I’ll move on to something else and I won’t be a modder/overclocker anymore. January I was working on cars. In Q1 I was learning programming. Q4 2017 I was doing databases. Q3 I was doing electronics, q2 last year I was doing 3d printing and building a 3d printer. Before that I was learning about smart homes and making a
Smart house. I bounce around. But my goal is always the same. Find something interesting and learn about it. I have some ideas for what’s next. Maybe metals.

Or I don’t know. I actually I think I’m gonna take the computer I got out of this project and the programming I’ve learned and get into virtual reality. I’m looking at sets now. And there is some interest at work in congenital heart disease modeling. Need to know a lot more computer stuff though. And 3d graphics. I always operate under the assumption that there isn’t really anything I can’t do if I try. Doesn’t mean I won’t fail. I’ve failed countless times. But I learn from each one. I learned a ton of great things reading the helpful posts at the beginning. And reading back through them, I probably overstated my inexperience for dramatic effect. Then again, at the same time I have so much left to learn.

But my point is, I don’t understand why These last few posts are so critical over what I did. What should I have done?

I mean it reads like I destroyed the card and sent it back to an unknowning recipient because I’d never picked up a soldering iron before.

Yes. There’s a lot of prose in here, and perhaps there are some nuances that got lost, but among other things, the topic does read like that. However, we should give one another benefit of the doubt, and I should have done so.

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Yea I think you’re right. It’s just weird being admonished- without being quite sure what for. In general I don’t mind and I often deserve it. The part that bothers me is it’s randomness. The admonishment only makes sense if I’d fucked something up (I told you so- we offered to help)
I do appreciate the help I did get. Most the time I am just looking for someone to bounce ideas off. My friends don’t work because they don’t have the same interest or anything close to the collective experience available here. Which is why I love DMS. There is always someone I can go to for help. (Even if I don’t come come down there to have someone solder in a resistor for me. :stuck_out_tongue: ). And for me, it’s almost always on talk. By the time i start doing, I’m neurotically research enough that I’m pretty confident in what I’m doing.

*it was an inductor. But that sounds more dramatic.