beautiful! I love the geometric shape of the legs.
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Quick leatherworking project: added some tiedown dee rings (one on each side) to a friend’s English saddle.
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Well as some as you may have seen, I remade & modified both the lift shaft & angle shaft blade adjustment for Woodshops Powermatic model 66 table saw. Not only did I go with better shaft materials but also I keyed the handles so they will not slip as easily. The handles got 2 set screws 90 degrees apart, one on the key/keyway & the other 90 degrees on the shaft.
For those who may wonder, why didn’t we just buy new shafts. Well they are discontinued & you can’t buy them.
During this process which took probably 5 hours not including planning, I used the following tools.
Lathe, with most the standard tooling. The drill bit to bore the shaft was a pretty long 5/16”. Also used the lathe to power tap the shaft for the 3/8-16 thread.
After boring & taping the shafts, I moved to the Bridgeport. I used the 5C collet block to hold the materials in the vise. I cut the slots using a 1”x 3/16 woodruff key cutter. Keep in mind I used the proper feeds & speeds.
After finishing at the Bridgeport I moved to the Arbor press to use our broach set to broach the key ways into the handle. The plate is there to ensure that the convex in the press shaft does not cant the broach creating an unwanted tapered keyway.
Fully assembled with new set screws.
And Delivered
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(done at home).
Did you know you can make coloured Titanium Oxide layers using a variable power supply and a medium like diet coke (or a baking soda solution). Or borax. Or a lot of things (just avoid chlorinated stuff).
Did this suppressor at home using my new (to me) power supply that arrived yesterday. After a few attempts decided that the baking soda worked better for the purples and blues, but diet coke worked best for the lower voltage yellowish gold.
It’s a fun process and super easy. If titanium were cheaper I’d be doing classes on this at DMS all the time it’s that easy.
Trick when doing tubes open on both ends: plug it. Unless you need to coat the inside, it will cause a lot of electrical leakage where you haven’t been able to do surface prep and this reducedes the effect oxide layer thickness.
How durable is it? Not particularly. It takes up to some rough handling, but it’s a far cry from nitride and cerakote finishes. No idea how it will take to suppressor heat, that’s gonna be part of the fun to find out.
However it’s got that cool factor and any colour, and it’s easy to sand off and make another colour. It’s like hair dye for machined parts.
EDIT: also did this to a keyring made out of titanium on the Dynatorch. It’s the standard class design, but cut out of 12ga grade 5 Ti.
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chris does it again!
You might try experimenting with a Nuln Oil wash on these, followed with a dry brush of the original color. Washes can add depth and contrast with minimal effort. Gamers used to refer to Devlan Mud (sadly discontinued) as “talent in a bottle”.
This 40K Hellbrute model I painted several years ago was painted primarily with brown, green, and red washes over a bone white base coat (with the metal picked out in metallics).
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