Replace Alternator Clutch

Dealer says my daughter’s 2013 Nisan Altima 2.5 alternator clutch is bad causing a vibration at idle. They wanted $600 to change the alternator. I was about to change it myself this morning for ~$200 in parts but when I read the repair diagnosis from the dealer and saw the clutch indication, I did a bit of research. Looks like it is possible to change just the pulley/clutch. Can anyone recommend where to buy one? Do we have the tools need to remove one? Gates 91024 Alternator Decoupler Pulley Tool Kit with Case

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https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2013,altima,2.5l+l4,1504417,electrical,alternator+/+generator,2412

I’d also replace the whole alternator.

But here’s the pulley

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2013,altima,2.5l+l4,1504417,electrical,alternator+/+generator+pulley,2448

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These pulleys on alternators have been around for over 10 years.
Buying a replacement alternator may or may not come with a new pulley…some do some do not.

I’d replace the pulley itself - there is no reason an alternator should fail on a 2013 model.

I’d suggest a new drive belt though…

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i’ll order this set:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015J5IB5G/ref=psdc_15707581_t3_B0053OSBUY

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The local alternative would be to order the Valeo (name brand)alternator through the automotive dept here for $283.07 including sales tax and have it delivered to the Space today or one day next week (or you can pick it up at their will call counter).

The Valeo alternator is new, not rebuilt, no core charge, and has the decoupling pulley already installed.

Either delivery or will call requirea payment via cash in U.S. currency, no checks no cards.

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That’s what I said :blankspace:

Zach,

One might ask why only the 4banger models have the decoupling pulley on the alternator and not the V6 models…

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The now expired crown vic PI have an overrunning clutch on their 200A alternators. The armature and windings weigh so much that when run wide open to upshift, and the engine and belt system RPm suddenly dropped, the inertia of the rotating mass kept spinning faster than the belt was now moving, and polished a couple inches of belt as it slowed down to match. Thus an overrunning clutch was added to prevent belt damage. So at least in that case, it had nothing to do with alternator load.

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Except that it’s not only a Renault Nissan, but it’s also a Renault Nissan built in Tennessee. I’m shocked that anything still works 5 years on.

Funny enough, the industry’s moving away from decoupling alternators these days, opting for mild hybrid systems that use the alternator either as a starter in auto-stop-start engines or even as far as an electric boost motor to aid low-end acceleration.

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Looks like some kind of one way clutch. Allows rotor to “freewheel” when its rpm is higher than the drive pulley.
Also allows rotor to spool down when engine is turned off.
Think of it as a torsional dampener that allows the inertia of the spinning mass to keep generating voltage/current despite sudden changes in pulley/engine rpm. Apparently also “protects” other things driven by belt.

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But mostly reduces NVH slightly, allegedly increases MPG marginally, and clearly increases costs substantially…
I think, as suchsojasco alludes, industry is trending toward “smart” chargers which largely tend to these needs, among others like only charging during decel events (thus allowing adverts to claim “regeneration” capabilities, and, thus “hybrid technology”) as well as hybrid purpose devices more friendly to the “holy grail” stop/start. These use (yet another) electronic control unit, so it can “smartly” use input from the plethora of onboard sensors to make smart decisions about when, and how much to charge the batteries to make best use of available resources (i.e. claim better MPG ratings).
Really neat technology. Largely pointless, in my opinion, but really cool.

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Thanks. I’ll order the pulley and change it when she comes back to town over Easter break.

@TLAR how does this work? Do the orders go through you or do I need to contact them directly? I’ve got three vehicles that need some type of service, plugs and intake gasket (GM), coil packs and plugs (Ford), alternator pulley (Nissan), and catalytic converter (GM). I’ve always believed that labor costs outweigh trying to use cheap parts. I’d rather get decent parts if it means spending a little more.

Mazda Skyactive X. Gas eng that’s a SI/CI hybrid. Think diesel running on gas but possibly more efficient.
According to preliminary reports a Mazda 3 equipped w/ Skyactive X will perform (out perform?) the current Skyactive G in the Miata. Numbers indicate the ability to cruise in the low to mid 80s mph and get hi 30s - low 40s mpg. Numbers also indicate up to 700(+?) miles to a tank. Available in 2019. Looking forward to real world data.

With this in works, who needs that over priced, over weight, short range EV bs? :laughing:

Michael, I agree, better parts are worth the extra money. A “lifetime” warranty is worthless if you actually have to use it again and again, solely to save a few dollars on a cheap part.
Currently this goes through me. This is strictly a wholesaler - they don’t have a retail counter or a store and no local sales people.

(I will set up other key members of automotive with the access to order the parts starting Monday night at the committee meeting)

Send me a PM with details of what you are looking for for the other vehicles and I’ll see what I can do for you.

This current supplier is mostly import Euro & Asian - but I am working on getting an account with the firm I used to work for - they are the largest wholesale distributor of auto parts in the USA.

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