Precision problem with my laser design on Blitzen

I used Blitzen for the first time last night and I had an issue with precision in my design. What I did is I imported my design as a DXF into RDWorks and somehow the precision of my design is off - some 2.7mm holes ended up getting cut at around 3mm for example.

I have used Thunder many times using this exact same approach and never had an issue, and in fact I pulled up my design on the RDWorks on the jump server it imports correctly (2.7 holes appear as 2.7).

I’m assuming its a settings thing with the RDWorks on Blitzen - when I logged in last night it was set to imperial, and I changed it to metric, could that have caused something?

Any ideas what I might need to change or what is up?

Thanks…

How much kerf did you plan for? Because 0.010" of kerf would cause exactly what you’re seeing if you didn’t plan for it.

I didn’t really plan for kerf honestly (didn’t even know what it was before you mentioned it), but after reading up on it I think thats what is causing this. After doing some remeasures, it appears the scale is actually correct, but the amount of material removed is just more.

So why is the kerf higher on Blitzen? The sizes are off by .15mm on my holes when I remeasure old designs cut on Thunder vs what I saw last night on Blitzen. Should I expect & plan for this type of variability between the machines? Is there a way to reduce it?

I am cutting on 3/16 cast acrylic BTW…

I would plan for this machine to machine variability. In fact, even the same machine cutting a few days apart will also generate much variability. And since you are manually focusing it, that introduces much variability that can also affect the kerf.

The thicker your material is, the greater your kerf is likely to be (you have to put more laser power and hence more heat into your part to cut it). Also, remember that the laser beam is conical and will cut a tapered kerf. This is more visible on thicker materials. I think this is one reason why people sometimes focus in the middle (depth) of their material instead of the top face.

When I have parts whose dimensions are critical I cut a 1" square and measure the kerf from that. Then I diddle my design to account for that measured kerf and I cut it right away. This is a serious PITN … I think there might be some design programs that allow you to enter a kerf but I don’t happen to have one of those.

BTW, .006 - .010" kerf is fairly typical - at the high end on thicker pieces, at the low end on thinner pieces. If I can live with a couple thousands tolerance I just guess - I decide which is worse; oversized or undersized and then I just use 0.008.

Remember, however, that the lasers don’t necessarily cut the same in the upper LH corner of the bed that they do in the lower RH corner … they usually take more power in the lower RH corner. I don’t know how this relates to the kerf you will see. I could guess … Anyway, cut your 1" kerf test in the same spot where you will cut your “real” part.

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K, makes sense. Appreciate the help John.

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That’s Chris Marlow. She’s incognito.

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Excellent info @John_Marlow

I would add that the 2 Thunder 35’s seems to have a longer throw - focal length. If so, the kerf will be different.

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