Hehe it’s been a fun ride. Please enjoy it, we will fix it if it breaks!
THanks Freddy, your hard work on this has been great.
@ all. This saw keeps throwing the blade forward, but not completely off the wheels. It’s cutting into the blade guard on the front and appears to not be running true as I’ve seen several people resaw their wood correctly and the blade is varying up to +/-.25in.
I’m going to go ahead and mark it down for now as I think something is wrong with the blade truing / wheel alignment.
@yashsedai I know you just put a lot of effort into this so if you don’t want to pick it up again we can get someone else to look at it.
Anyone want to pick up where Freddy left off or Freddy do you want to continue to own this?
I’m going to order a couple 3TPI 3/4” wide blades for the jets so that there’s a better resaw option available while the laguna is giving us fits.
I am not a Laguna bandsaw expert, nor have I played one on TV. I walked this morning to this:
And noted that the lock down on the tilt adjustment was not locked down.
It was very loose – like 3-4 revolutions from being tight. Either it came loose to the tune of 3-4 revolutions (unlikely) or it was never tightened down. Not sure what effect a loose tilt lock has but it would seem that it would allow the tilt to get out of whack.
I adjusted the tilt so the saw tracks on the wheel. I did not touch the guides! I know what a pain they are to adjust.
I then tightened the lock mechanism.
I did this around 11 am today. Hopefully it holds.
Someone with more expertise on the laguna may want to look over the tracking and make sure it is properly aligned.
So I’m wondering if we need to crown the tires to help with that.
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After a quick review this of the camera’s the saw was adjusted this morning at 2am…I’m not sure why it was adjusted. The tracking lock mechanism was left unlocked.
It’s been adjusted several times over the last week just to my knowledge. Lots of people trying to fix the blade alignment issue.
Someone pointed out to me tonight that the blade looked bent and also was probably dull from running into the guard so much so maybe that’s causing part of the blade wander during re-sawing. there’s a fairly sharp blade on top the cabinet in the back but I’ll get a new one ordered regardless.
There’s been a lot of attempts at repairing, alot of parts were changed as well, and multiply attempts at adjusting this bandsaw…a lot of different hands touching it…
it’d been my experience that when that happens with any machinery that isn’t working properly after each attempt… it’s time to go back to basics… start over check, test, and measure as you work forward… the bearing on the upper wheel should be checked for Play and the wheel should be check for run out… if that checks out then the tire need to checked… once blade stay in place then move onto the guides…
This should be handled by one person or a group of people at the same time…
or is it time to have the Maytag repair man come out?
Feel free to have someone pick this up. I’ve got a list of other things to do as well.
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The issue isn’t the adjustment when then blade moves forward look at the difference in how far it’s overhanging on the top and then the lower wheel there’s a 1/4” difference, that’s not someone messing with it that’s the wheels are at different angels, there’s 4 bolts on the back of the machine for each wheel hub that you use to adjust that, this isn’t a fiddlers fudge up this is the wheel angels being off
Everything else the bearings the guides the tires the etc is fine it’s the wheel angel of the lower on that needs to be checked, which mean the table needs to come off and any metal housing in the way, take a long super straight edge and place it flush with the wheels, the use those 4 bolts to make them parallel and re assemble, it’s by no means easy but it is very simple, I’d be happy to do it given permission
These wheels appear to be assemblies… why is the wheel alignment off? Did we remove the flywheel to replace the tires?
Both wheels were removed, this was accomplished with a gear puller and the removal of the center bolt. we replaced the tires with urethane ones that had to be glued on because they would not stay on the wheel.
The wheels have nothing to do with it, it’s the shaft that holds it, there a 4 bolt adjustment on the back that allows you to tweak up down left right of the shaft itself, changing the angel of the wheel, so even if the wheel wasn’t seated perfectly level(which it is seated correctly) you’d then just use that 4bolt to make the adjustments to level
Sure. Keep me in the loop about what you’re doing to fix it.
Sorry for so many questions - when you guys removed the wheels… did you mark them? Top and bottom? As week direction?
The top wheel is an idler. Bottom has a vbelt pulley on the back, the bottom can only go one way. The top I did not mark. It is possible you could flip it around. If I recall though, the runout on it was similar and there was no crown. Seems reasonable to want to turn it around.
What I have done in the past is to take a straight edge and place it across both Wheels at the same time. This gets you a long way towards the wheels being coplanar.
I only ask because I don’t remember seeing the weight on the top wheel… I remember only see the back side of the rivets on the top wheel… I took pictures back when the bandsaw was first reported having an issues with the v belt and the tires. however none of my pictures show the whole wheel… so my memory could be / or more than likely is flawed.
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