Need Some Advice From Auto Folks

Automotive
#1

The clutch on my 2004 Honda Accord finally gave out this weekend. Annoying, since it’s been sitting for months because the alternator died and I just replaced it and got it running again a couple of weeks ago, but it happens. I knew it was going to go out eventually.

I’m relatively new to the space, and haven’t been able to get through the automotive shop to get signed on the equipment like the lift yet. Would it be possible to arrange to meet up with someone from the committee (or otherwise qualified) to get signed off on any tools I need sometime soon? I can definitely compensate for the time.

Also, any advice on the repair is welcome. I have quite a bit of experience through my life as a mechanic (helicopters, forklifts, tractor trailers, machinery, etc), but haven’t done a ton of work on cars. I’m comfortable with it with the right tools and instructions/references, and I have a friend who also has some experience who’ll be helping me out. I wanted to check that doing the clutch replacement would be something I would conceivably be able to do in the space. I’d like to if it’s possible, to save myself some money, and get an opportunity to get hands-on with my car, which I always appreciate.

#2

So, Motorsports normally meets on Thursday nights. This week they’re heading to a race, though. @Bizwacky says that they’ll be back next Thursday, 4/27. The group meets at 7 pm, but they like to do the lift training around 6:30 or so.

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#3

I have never done one, but it appears that this one should be external to the bell housing, and possibly not that bad aside from the usual need to bleed the system.

Some others have used a coaxial or conventional cylinder inside the bell housing, and they are a project on a whole different level.

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#4

Thanks! That should be good, i gotta wait for my tax return to hit before i can get the parts anyway lol

#5

Yeah it looks pretty straightforward. Having the right tools makes all the difference lol

#6

The clutch?
Haven’t seen one external to the bell housing…

Are we talking about hydraulics, and not the actual clutch?
Did I miss that part?
If so, yeah, primary/secondary cylinders are pretty straightforward on those vehicles. Even bleeding is EZ PZ. Just open the secondary and let gravity do it job…
A 8mm, 10mm, and 12mm socket and/or wrench and 10mm flare wrench is all that’s needed for tools, I do believe…

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#7

Went back and read it again, and no idea why I was thinking clutch slave cylinder.

Front wheel drive clutches can be fun trying to figure out how to get enough separation to get the engine and trans apart far enough while in the body. And jogging up to keep things properly held in place. Much different level of effort between two jobs. Though the effort to get to a concentric hydraulic slave cylinder is basically the same to change as a clutch.

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#8

Yes. I mean, if you’re in there, you’re doing the whole shebang.
I cut my teeth on FWD clutches, so I don’t think of them as any big deal. A reliable transmission jack and/or a reliable friend or two are the most important, followed by a reliable cross-compartment hoist/holder. Something like this.
And boyohboy is a lift nice! I know we have one of those. I’m not sure if we have the hanger or not…

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#9

actually I was wondering about this too. do we have have a transmission jack?

I think it was the clutch that went out, and not the cylinders, but I’m going to check them while I’m working on it. From some prelim research, I found a few videos showing different ways to do it; looks like with a transmission jack, you can pull that back from the engine a bit and keep it on the jack to get clearance, and with it on the lift, it looks pretty straightforward to replace. The hardest part just seems like breaking down all the things you need to to get to the transmission and back it off. And then just servicing it after, since you have to drain it, then bleeding the system. The cylinders have felt fine up to now though.

#10

We have had one that worked. I don’t know if we currently have a reliable one. Something I’d want to put hands on before committing.
Cylinder failure generally = no fluid in reservoir, but lots of fluid somewhere it shouldn’t be, and pedal on the floor. They don’t usually fail so spectacularly. Usually it’s seeping out over time. Still puts fluid where none should be, like in the dust boots, and pedal on the floor.
Clutch failures usually result in lack of motion transmitted to the wheels. Typically precursed by engine revs not matching (i.e. “clutch slipping”) but not always.
Can keep on jack, but generally, “pull that back from the engine a bit” vs. “remove trans from vicinity” are indifferent. Once it’s on the jack, just move it out of the way. same amount of work, really.

Not sure on this. Hondas don’t usually require any draining or bleeding to replace a clutch disk & pressure plate assy. Not that I’d discourage flushing the hydraulic clutch fluid, nor discourage replacing the transmission oil, but those aren’t something a shop would do as part of a clutch job to get the car back into service. Some oil may exit the trans from manipulating it, so you’d top that off, but otherwise… :man_shrugging:
The clutch hydraulics would be removed from the trans without cracking the line. Just unbolt the secondary and tie it up out of the way, like one does a brake caliper when replacing pads.

Honestly, hardest part is getting it on the jack & keeping it there whilest maneuvering in such close quarters as to drop it out of the way. I honestly miss “the good ol’ days” when me & a compadre would just shoulder the darned things out of the way. So much better than relying a stupid jack. but only works when young and on small stuff! :smiley: 2nd tends to be stubborn flywheel bolts (assuming you’re removing it for cleaning and rear main seal replacement, which I consider non-optional for car one intends to drive; quick-n-dirty to resell might be different, although my moral compass doesn’t really allow that). 3rd hardest bit is impetuous bell housing bolts. 4th is all the misc. junk that gets bolted to the transmission for safe keeping. 5th is axle removal. BIG. PRY. BAR. (don’t know what we have in that dept. either). Anywho. I’m sure you get the gist.

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#11

This helps a lot, thanks! I’ll be up there next week on Thursday, I’m going to try to get a good sense of what is on hand before I commit to doing it. It helps to know what things to be looking for.

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#12

Last I checked we do have the engine support bar for across the fenders to hold the motor up after you remove the mounts to drop the xmsn to R&R the clutch. Look on the grey shelves. You also have to remove the half shafts at the xmsn - might lose a bit of oil. We have very large pry bars hanging on the right side of the Milwaukee tool box. Probably overkill for your honda. Are you just doing the clutch or are you also replacing the rear crank seal and mainshaft seal (the input shaft seal on the xmsn)? Some Hondas had a casting type of “snout” in the bell housing that was somewhat delicate…be careful, case halves are a pain in the arse the replace.

This is a good time to replace Engine mounts and other items…

As Jast above said - do not disconnect any hydraulic lines, remove or unbolt the cylinder with the line attached. Bring your own Brake Clean and towels - treat it like aircraft work and clean it before putting it back together. (former helicopter mechanic and Euro car mechanic - and ugh the occasional Honda for friends).

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