and I’d wager go look at custom synth boxes, and you will see these sub panels look really nice, with 4 small attachment points (which in your case could be spot welds, or rivets if you dont want a fastener head visible)
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Matt, after re-reading the thread, I can see why you might read it as the gang objecting to doing it in the HaaS. I actually think the collective is saying that really the setup to hold it in the HaaS in a way that would be rigid enough to actually cut correctly (clean cuts etc.) would be difficult at best and may not even be possible due to the height of the box side that needs cutting. I totally get the desire to make it aesthetically pleasing as that’s what I like as well.
Another suggestion although a bit time consuming would be to cut the non-round shapes with a dremel and cutoff wheel. A steady hand could do pretty easily. Most of the rounds could be drilled easily and then enlarged to the right size with a step drill. Also, these cable glands could be a nice touch and would mask any rough edges of the round holes.
But at the end of the day, I think I would agree with the others that cutting a larger opening and then inserting it into the space would be the best to get you the exact openings you want. It’s a similar concept to how aftermarket PC Cases and motherboard vendors deal with all the io ports.
But now i’m probably beating a dead horse. :-). Good luck.
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Real life experience. I had to cut similar holes (Fan, Digital Thermostat, Conduit In and Out) on a metal control box that looked just like the one pictured and elected to do it on a manual mill. I clamped it down and shored it up to prevent chatter. In spite of my best efforts, it was terrifying. I immediately stopped and finished it off with a Dremel and hand drill. The finished product was actually very clean looking.
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The following is submitted for consideration / entertainment to those who’s knowledge base is far deeper than mine. Not responsible if someone tries this. 
If I was hell bent on using the Haas and assuming there is plenty of Z axis clearance, I’d proceed accordingly:
- Cad/Cam what needs to be cut/milled for a plate. Plate dimensions match panel side of box.
- Obtain 2x steel plates. .5"+ thick and slightly exceeds perimeter dimensions of box. Sandwich box between plates and mount up in vise. Depending on width of box - may need to add 2nd vise. Use c-clamps on vertical sides. Ugly but more structurally rigid. Make sure top panel to be is reasonably orthogonal to cutting tool.
- Use largest end mill possible. 4+ flutes. Run spindle at “speed” and reduce feed rate.The higher the freq of mech vibration the better. Avoid mech resonance at all costs.
- Set tool origin at corner of panel.
- Cross fingers and hit “Cycle”.
Probably far from practical. I can picture this ugly setup in the Haas…and hearing someone say “No privileges for you.”. Constructive / instructive critiques welcomed.
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Note that this sort of machining is specifically forbidden on the HAAS. Or rather, it’s totally allowed, but you’ll be responsible financially for any damage you do to the equipment.
Yeah, Art, we’re going to have to talk more about that sign off for you to be able to use the HAAS.
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Haha thanks guys. I’m just going to do this by hand. It’s a PITA but probably less so than the HAAS. I didn’t realize something like this would get so complicated.
For those who may wonder. The clearance between the table top & bottom of the tool changer is about 18.5”. Now if there are any tools in the holder, that drops the clearance even lower.
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That’s what the bench grinders are for 
Good idea but backwards. Put the plates inside the box, with adhesive. Jack them apart firmly clamp the base plate. To the bed. Use a 1/32 end mill to trace the outlines.
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great suggestion for a much shorter box in the future!
Interesting. Putting the box - ie, the side panels under tension from the inside would be more rigid / stable than compression from the outside. Why?
Think car tire. The internal force prevents the walls from buckling. Thin sections under compression tend to buckle.
Yup soda can or limp noodle. Most stuff much stronger in tension than compression. And that’s about the extent of my mechanical engineering knowledge.
Here is an article on drilling, punching or Circle cutting the round holes. Maybe buy a knock out punch for the rectangular holes. https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to-plans/how-to/a5940/how-to-work-with-sheet-metal/