Need advice for a Rusty Paint Chip

Automotive
#1

I recently noticed a paint chip on my car door. It looks like there’s a bit of rust in there already. I’ve been looking at shops to take it to, but since it’s just a small spot, I figure it might be possible to do it myself (with help) at DMS. If not, then at least I could get advice on a trustworthy shop to go to.

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As far as I understand it, the process would go something like this:

Grind off paint in affected area

Grind out rust to protect surrounding metal

Fill with Bondo, shape it flush with the door

Sand it smooth

Paint match

Apply Paint

Apply Clear Coat to protect it.

Can all of this be done at DMS? Any advice?

DIY Paint Repair - Clear Coat Questions
#2

You could do all of that except the painting. We don’t allow rattle-cans, and most paint match is going to be a rattle-can.

It’s a regulation thing that only affects DMS because we’re a business. You could do the spraying in your driveway…

#3

Wether or not you choose to DIY this depends entirely on your goals.

If your goal is to diminish the appearance and rust prevention, then DIY isn’t hard. Most auto parts stores carry color matched touch up pens which I’ve used in similar situations to good effect.

If you really care about the appearance of this car and the goal is to completely eliminate the defect, then taking it to a professional to be repainted is the right approach. Automotive finishing and color matching is a skilled trade for a reason and taking it to a good professional is the only way to ensure a quality outcome.

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#4

I agree with Chris. The repair probably doesn’t need filler(bondo). A professional shop would work out the dent. Hit it with a heavy 2k primer(expensive). Block sand. Then paint and blend the paint with a reducer so the damaged area and the clear disappear. The paint cost alone for an individual is like $500.

Rattle cans aren’t 2 part( they don’t have a hardener and therefore suck). This is why your average rust oleum paint job is never as good as a factory paint job on everything from chairs to grills to machines. Some paint job shops sell 2k(2part) rattle cans but they are single use and they aren’t cheap.

The one exception I would say is airbrush specialists. These guys typically work as car detailers and can fix small scratches and dents relatively cheaply. Sometimes they work at high end dealerships.

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#5

I think two part rattle cans are available for things like Clear Coat. You trigger the embedded hardener and then it’s go time; use it or that’s it.

#6

Videos like this have been making me feel a bit more confident about going DIY:

If I brush the paint on, let it dry, sand it smooth, and maybe apply a second coat, theoretically I could do almost everything at DMS, except perhaps the top coat. Maybe take it home and use one of the two part rattle cans, as mentioned by @jphelps

If, however, the fumes from the solvents in the primer and paint would be too much, then I’ll need to find somewhere else to take on this project. I was recently quoted an estimate of $2,500 for a proper paint match, so I’m definitely exploring my options…

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#7

We are fine with fumes – it’s just the aerosols that Carrollton says would have to be monitored that ban the rattle cans. If we allowed them, then we’d have to record the usage. And, that would essentially be on the individual members. Our log would never be accurate, and that would make us open to being fined. No bueno…

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#8

That’s hack work. Scotty is a mechanic not an autobody guy. He admits as much (admirable). If you want to do it that way go for it. But it really isn’t any different than the cheapest way possible. If you are going to do it cheap do it cheap. Why use an enamel base (rust oleum) and the a polyurethane (touch up) aka (automotive paint) over the top? The rule in any paint/refinishing job is that you are only as good as your lowest layer. So why use the cheapest primer? Just buy the rattle can “acrylic primer” then a touch up base and clear coat. Admittedly I am very cheap but in this case Scotty is mixing cheap primer with not cheap touch up paint.

Rusty metal primer and other rust oleum enamel products are great for enamel paint jobs. However, cars aren’t painted with enamel, they are painted with polyurethane. You wouldn’t put house latex paint on your car, so why would you use enamel?

This is the correct way to do it with rattle cans. Airbrush would be similar. This guy is a professional painter. I am not sure how valuable the vehicle is. If it’s cheap, just fill with a touch up pen. If you care about how it looks:

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#9

So since an airbrush wouldn’t involve aerosols (i.e. the propellant pre-loaded into rattle cans), I could maybe use an airbrush if I brought my own?

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#10

Yes. I don’t think we’d let you use auto paint in our airbrushes, but you are welcome to bring your own.

#11

Can I get some recommendations for which brand of paint to look for? Both non-rattle can and rattle can, primer, paint, and clear coat. I may be able to take care of this task in an alternate location, which would enable the use of rattle cans, which would probably be cheaper than getting an airbrush for traditional paints. As @jphelps said, 2-part rattle cans are out there. I would like to know more…

#12

The 2k spray paints have a puck with the catalyst, usually stored in the lid. Shake everything up like usual. Take the puck and put it on the stem in the bottom. This starts your working life for the can. Then shake it all again and get to work.

https://www.amazon.com/Spray-Refinishing-Permanent-Surfaces-3680061/dp/B0043B7UQY/ref=sr_1_15?crid=2214XJSFP1LRJ&keywords=2k+spray+can+automotive&qid=1693415524&sprefix=2k+spray+can+automotive%2Caps%2C765&sr=8-15

Usually, the 2K automotive spray cans are mostly clear coat, some primers, and specialty paint like caliper paint. I did note one brand with a few 2k base colors. No idea how good they are.

https://www.amazon.com/Samurai-2-Part-Polyurethane-Spray-Paint/dp/B09L3WJJRG/ref=sr_1_30?crid=2214XJSFP1LRJ&keywords=2k%2Bspray%2Bcan%2Bautomotive&qid=1693415339&sprefix=2k%2Bspray%2Bcan%2Bautomotive%2Caps%2C765&sr=8-30&th=1

#13

SEM makes a good product.

#14

Ellis color is close to DMS. They are very reasonably priced and should have what you need. They are what is known as a job shop/jobber. They sell PPG paint and various auto body products. Seam sealer, sandpaper, clips, tape, masking paper….ect

#15

I suggested to OP that he try a kit from Dr Color Chip

No affiliation, just seen them recommended frequently elsewhere.