I actually struggled with this nomenclature as well, being used to FWD meaning Four Wheel Drive, but it appears to be around to stick (until some punks some along and change it AGAIN!)
With the “new” TLAs, I’ve grown… comfortable…
Oh. Forgot.
Dinosaurs still roam Earth. They’re just “smokier” than they once were…
Back on track…
Off trck:
Audi had no ESP /traction control in the original 1980:
The Audi Quattro was the first rally car to take advantage of the then-recently changed rules which allowed the use of four-wheel drive in competition racing. It won competition after competition for the next two years.[1] To commemorate the success of the original vehicle, all subsequent Audis with their trademark quattro four-wheel-drive system were badged “quattro” with a lower case “q” and in a distinct typeface which has remained nearly unchanged since its inception.
Adverse as in the Pikes Peak climb or Rally racing?
Today’s un-attentive drivers that “need” on board systems to enable them to drive on public roads safely is a tragedy.
On Track - Zack did you ever buy parts from TISCO? They had a distribution center in Coppell until a few days ago. I did a will call there for an 8N I occasionally work on for a family friend. The place was huge.
Now, now they are very attentive to their cell phones…
Speaking of 8ns, had to watch this, from the Canadian Redneck.
And/or general lack of attention span. People reading the paper, putting makeup on, looking at the fancy digital billboards, eating full meal. I myself will hardly even have the radio on.
Jast,
Your video is killing me - I am trying to leave work…
I want to know if the spotless white cloth was just for the video / sleeve install?
I know, right?
You DO know how to double time yootoob, right?
Cuts it down to 15 minutes…
He appears pretty methodical, and has a plethora of other rags at hand in some of his other videos. I can’t agree with everything he does, but for a barnyard mechanic, seems like he’s got his business square.
I think you’ll find that with just about every mechanic or tech in any field - just like the "what oil, spark plug, brake pad, etc etc is the best…you know the drill.
Fortunately old tractors are more forgiving than the delicate crap the automobile industry is churning out today.
Just take that oil pan bolt right ooought with a nut welded to it. 
Sometimes you get lucky.
They seem to do that a lot on TV (yootoob, whatever…)
Notice that it’s actually a white shirt chopped up into rags. That’s a real farmer!
I have a Massey Ferguson I35 (1971) in my barn. It runs, but the carburetor leaks gas. It is a Bendix/Zenith. I believe there is a problem with the ‘float.’ There is no serial number on it so I can’t order parts. It is in good shape, or so it seems, so I believe it just needs minor tweaking - the carburetor, that is. Also the radiator is in really bad shape. When I run it, the gas usage seems to keep up with the gas leak, but I’m sort of afraid it will catch on fire somehow so I’m not driving it, which causes problems to the carburetor. I have never worked on any engine - car or tractor. Nor have I ever owned a tractor before - very inexperienced. I’d love to have help fixing it up.
Yeah, gas leaks are never good. If the float is stuck, the needle valve won’t close and fuel will flow all over the place. You’ll want to get reprints of the MF manual for that tractor. I can probably track down where my Dad bought his reprint copy from.
First, let me say, I am of almost zero use when it comes to carburetors. I understand them. I can disassemble them. I can re-assemble them. I can follow directions. They still NEVER seem to work well for me. I would LOVE to change that (and get into some of the more complex ones). But I am certainly not the man to boldly lead an expedition into classic carb overhaul. I would love to be there for support, though, if you work on this guy while I’m around.
These carbs are a good starting point for carburetor learning. Single barrel. Effectively steady-state operation (i.e. you don’t “hit it” at a stop sign and want it to accelerate). Very simple and straight forward. Here is a diagram of one that is probably very similar to yours.
As you can see, many small parts, but not so many as more complex units (quardrajet as reference)
At any rate, here’s a carb kit which just might be for that one.
http://www.steinertractor.com/ABC1346-economy-zenith-carburetor-repair-kit
Might not, too. IADNATCD (I am definitely not a tractor carburettor doctor)
I have two manuals. One is the operator manual for the 135 (both gas and diesel) which is no help in this situation. The other I ordered off the net. It’s called,"Service Manual Massey Ferguson MF135 & MF 150. I thought that one would tell me everything, but if it does I can’t understand it. The problem is that MF has so many of these tractors. Some were made in the UK, some here. When I look in the parts site (yesterdaystractors.com) they have several carburetors and kits. I’ve read that the number is stamped on the housing, but I looked inside and out on mine, and no number. Probably anyone who can rebuild a carb would think this is a piece of cake. Anyway, I sure appreciate your quick response. The engine is a Perkins Gas (AG3 152) with an ‘updraft’ carburetor system. The carb gaskets looked like the ones on this link, I think, but I forgot to take a photo of the inside when I had it apart. http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Massey-Ferguson-135_Carburetor-Kit-Basic_Z104.html . It has a fixed main jet and an electrically operated fuel shut-off solenoid, which works. The solenoid acts to prevent fuel flow whenever the ignition switch is turned off, but we tested it extensively, and it works.The fuel overflows in the carburetor whether it is off or on. There are diagrams in the manual, but they don’t tell how to install the floats, etc. They are quite good, and would probably be a help to someone who knew about engines.
You have to make sure the float moves freely and isn’t binding. The pins that it rotates on must be clean and free of varnish and other deposits. Old gas leaves nasty gunk behind that will gum up any moving part, including the needle valve and seat. These issues will cause the valve to not close and the bowl to overfill with fuel.
Solution: Clean the crap out of every crevice and passage and off of every surface inside and out. If the float and pin are working after that and if the needle valve and its seat mate properly to shut off flow of fuel then they don’t need replacing. Look carefully at the needle valve and seat. If the tip is corroded or the seat is corroded then it won’t seal to shut off the fuel and will need replacing. They should be smooth and mate properly.
When I was a teen we’d rebuild carbs and if the gasket sets weren’t available, a cereal box was used to cut out replacement gaskets and we used a very thin film of that nasty greenish brown gasket sealer. They worked beautifully.
we used a very thin film of that nasty greenish brown gasket sealer.
Indian Head gasket sealer. Every good shop needs a bottle!
Thank you. We were thinking the float. They are really hard to seat. I believe it did not leak until we put the carb together the second time - after more through cleaning. This week I will take it apart again, clean it more, and make sure the float is properly seated. I can make a gasket like that. I just needed someone to tell me I could. Thank for the encouragement and advice.
We always used this stuff, but I think it’s about the same thing.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80019-Aviation-Gasket-Sealant/dp/B000HBM3QQ/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4J7JCNH3R6KV7DW1V38A
I was much older than I should have been before I knew “permatex” was a brand name of sealers, and this was just one OF them.
You can buy gasket materials from Oreilly’s. No need to put any sealant. They sell it by the sheet, last I saw was about the size of an 8 1/2 x 11 paper.
