Mounting in brick

Off Topic
#1

So, I have an issue with drilling into the brick on the side of my house. I really just hate the idea of making permanent holes. That said, I’m mounting a TV on the patio. But, if in 3 years we decide we don’t the TV on that wall anymore, I’d like to re purpose the holes.

Would any of you have a suggestion for reusable, secure mounting hole solutions in brick? I was thinking I could put up a painted 3/4" backboard, then screw other installations into the backer board at some point…but then I’d like to replace the backer board if it ends up with too many holes in it after a while…

The patio is shaded, but does get moist from sideways rain on occasion coming out of the north.I’m installing a TV mount with a 40" extension so we can watch it either from the patio seating, or turn it fully 90 degrees and watch from the pool. I am not an outdoor rated mount, nor TV…I accept the potential pitfalls for this. But I will have a cover, I’ll oil the mount, use drip loops, and my connections at the wall are being professionally installed.

#2

Find the studs, drill thru the mortar, attach tv mount to studs using lag screws?

#3

I’ve done the backer board a couple of times. I’ve decided that over time, it is more intrusive. You trap moisture against the brick, and you couple thermal and humidity stresses from your plywood to the brick. And you likely use bigger hardware to support it, than you likely would for the items directly.

The first thing I will say is never fasten to the mortar. It will fail rapidly.

My personal recommendation is use a good hammer drill and bit, and Tapcon screws to directly mount your hardware. For most things you can use a small enough screw that the empty hole is not that noticeable, and they sell red caulk that will make it even less noticeable, and address any unfounded concerns about water intrusion.

Don’t reuse tapcon screws for anything that can’t handle falling. If you remove and replace tap cons enough times the hole will slowly enlarge. The first way to address this is insert a cable tie in the hole and the install the screw. This gives a like new bite. If at some point this no longer feels secure, drill out for the next size up and go forward.

I do recommend the hex head version, an appropriate bit, and an impact driver to install. It seems to give the cleanest results.

I will caution that some brick dust releases conductive mineral content when it gets wet. Be careful not to get drilling dust into your electronics.

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#4

I’d advise against drilling into the studs. Then you are exposing the building envelope to more water/moisture.

I would attach to the brick & not worry about it. You can patch the holes with caulk & using some of the brick dust to match it.

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#5

Do you know what the potential pitfalls of an indoor rated display outdoors on an articulated mount in brick are?

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#6

Buy stainless, brass, or bronze (see marine supply) bolts would be my recommendation if possible. Reason: if regular steel and they rust, they expand and will cause cracking.

#7

I’ve done some concrete drilling and mounting of lifesaving stuff (above ground tornado shelters) and we would drill into the concrete, clean the hole, then epoxy a threaded rod into it (Hilti is what we used for epoxy, but there are plenty of other brands that will suffice for your application). You would then place whatever you wanted to mount onto the threaded rod and use nuts and washers to hold in place. If you need to get rid of the threaded rod, remove the mount, grind flat, and cover with additional epoxy and brick dust.

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#8

Thanks for y’alls feedback…

@Jeeves Hi Greg. Aside from the TV getting condensate and the mount rusting, I do not. Can you share your experience with me?

#9

Condensation is always a concern but cooling/brightness is a larger one. Most consumer grade displays are rated at around 300-400 Nits. An outdoor rated display is around 1500-3000 Nits for comparison. Even in the shade during daylight hours an indoor rated display will be hard to see and more than likely completely washed out if you are not sitting right next to it (ie: floating in a pool).

Cooling for most indoor rated displays is minimal and rely on open vent designs. Being in the shade will help as well as not running for long periods of time. The open vent designs will let dust, debris, and critters get in. Periodic cleaning and blowing out the inside will be needed. Moisture is a concern but as long as you don’t power it on when its wet or really cold it can be kept to a minimum.

The mount itself being fully articulated means moving parts. You can get outdoor rated mounts that are made more of SS or better weatherproofing than a thin powder coat. But they are expensive. With mounting it into brick you will want to epoxy the concrete anchors. Being articulated over time it will be harder to move which will put more strain on the anchors. Check if the mount has locking positions as well. What ever position you put it in you will want to lock it in place so that wind is not a concern. Even when not in use and pressed up against the wall you will want it covered and locked in.

Don’t expect any warranty on the display, as soon as you put it outside the warranty is void. You can always lie or use “no questions asked” return policies but in any case don’t be surprised when someone laughs at you. Consumer grade displays already have a questionable life span, mounted outside it could die in less than year or it could last 5, manufacturers cant even say :slight_smile:

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#10

Thank you for the feedback. You are the 2nd person to mention epoxy anchors.

It’s patio covered. I’ll end up starting with a tarp for overspray and eventually moving to enclosing it onto the articulating mount.

I’m starting off with used and freebie indoor TVs… And a good mount. We’ve set it on the table and watch TV in the past it worked well enough for us. I get the need to watch the mount arm joints.

If we actually use it over time, I’ll considrr upgrading to outdoor rated but will likely leave that for the next house :wink:

Thanks again.

Clayton Fitchett
(214) 586-2129