Misconception that Oil Pressure = Timing Chain Tension (Now with added correctness!)

Continuing the discussion from Engine Timing off by 10 degrees:

I’ll move here and repost this in what I hope is an informative way. This is better-researched and documented than my last response, which I deleted as I thought it largely vestigial to the thread.

Loss of oil pressure does not equate to loss of timing chain tension, even with a “hydraulic” tensioner as seen in the Ford “modular” engines, of which the Lincoln Navigator 5.4 is one. It is true that they are fed engine oil from a pressurized source (i.e. an “oil galley”). It is true that this provides a portion of the mechanism by which timing chain slack is removed, i.e. tensioned*. However, the inverse is not true, which is to say that loss of oil pressure does NOT put the slack back in the timing chain. If this were true the chains would be at full slack each time the engine is started up, which would almost certainly be catastrophic in very short order.
Here is a lovely video a colleague found showing the ratcheting mechanism which prevents the tensioner from “detensioning” being manipulated to allow retraction during a chain change.

This ratchet prevents the loss of oil pressure from detensioning the chain, at least until wear limits are reached and/or something is broken.

* The remainder of the mechanism is made up of a spring and the mechanics of timing chain function.

I hope this helps clarify how these timing chain tensioners function, as the misconception appears to be quite widespread (and some nicely written, “official sounding” articles, such as that posted by hasbridge, make it seem so feasible).

EDIT: See below for Hasbridge’s corrections to the real world as-is instead of as-I-know-about-it. Turns out they DO use “purely hydraulic” tensioners, which are asserted to work similarly to hydraulic valve lash adjusters (and I have a whole new tangent here, too, which I shall spare you) with no ratcheting mechanism. They may or may not be in the 2003 Lincoln Navigator which I think has a DOHC 5.4 litre “modular” V8 from FoMoCo, though I could be wrong there, too. Either way, Mr. Falgout’s is broken, and the fact that Ford actually made a design which COULD be affected directly by oil pressure makes my assertions above less valid, and the notion that low oil pressure/volume due to overfilling and aeration more valid.
None of this fixes Mr. Falgout’s problem, but does increase my curiosity as to what actually happened. My BS meter is still off the zero mark, but less close to the FULL mark.

Also, just realized this should be a DOHC motor, so the timing components should look more like this

which I borrowed from this guy’s thread if you want to read about assembling a Cobra engine.
As far as I can tell, being SOHC or DOHC has no bearing on the plastic/cast iron tensioner situation.

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Interesting. So these are really more automatically adjusted than hydraulically operated.

I guess, the only way to figure out what happened to his car, is to crack it open and look…

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Nope. In 2000, Ford switched from the ratcheting metal tensioners to plastic ones with no ratchet mechanism.

https://books.google.com/books?id=IaeMBgAAQBAJ&pg=PA45&lpg=PA45&dq=ford+plastic+vs+iron+tensioner&source=bl&ots=YYfzSRJihL&sig=Br0grqlwyrg0bJCM-II54l6ia7Y&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CEIQ6AEwBGoVChMIkteZ49yVyQIVAsVjCh3t5Ats#v=onepage&q=ford%20plastic%20vs%20iron%20tensioner&f=false

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I stand corrected.
I have yet to see such a beast, even in photos, which seems amazing since I would expect the complaint line to be veeeeery long.

As someone with plenty of experience with hydraulic valve lash adjusters as well as automotive timing components, I will state unequivocally that it’s a real shame when bean counters get hold of the engineering side of things and place a few cents worth of parts at higher value than doing the job well. Sadly this example is neither the first nor will be the last.

EDIT: I’ll be darned. I HAVE seen them. Because they’re made of black plastic, I did not really look at them and assumed they would be cast like those I was familiar with.

From that video also:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E2UMX40/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00E2UMX40&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=W2NNMVDPJUAM4EK2

I have to say I’d be pissed if I got plastic tensioners for my own car. If I still worked in a shop I guess I wouldn’t think about it since I’d get paid again if it came back…

There are some threads in various forums about people switching to the metal ratcheting ones. Oddly, it also seems some people building high-RPM motors actually prefer either the plastic non-ratcheting ones, or metal ones with the ratchet mechanism removed. Apparently at high RPM the mechanism can over-ratchet, and overtension the timing chain.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=92299

I can see that.
If it’s a race motor, you will be planning to be “in there” more often than ye olde “get to work” ride. But if it’s the tow vehicle, I’m putting the cast iron ratchety guys in…

As stated in the book you linked, “some think steel is better, some think plastic is better…”
I fall into the former, apparently.
:smiley: