Makita 12” Miter Saw

Woodshop
#1

The New Makita 12” Miter Saw has Been installed and set up… thanks @IanLee

There is some vacuum work that still needs to be done and parts have been ordered… this work will not stop you from using the saw…

This is a new tool. please take a moment to familiarize yourself with this new saw before use… it function very different than the Festool… 12”saw blade, the blade guard works however the blade loose bigger than the Festool:. Take care, and your time…
it’s you’re a member of the woodworker Guild of America here an article:

George is great instructor - he reminds me of my high school wood shop teacher. Just way nicer and he doesn’t yell at you for doing stupid stuff, we have members at DMS for that…

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Toutube Vides will be friend.:

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11 Likes
#2

And 3……2….1 it’s broken. :rofl: I’m teasing of course.

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#3

:joy::joy: Jinx - your fixing it :joy::joy::joy:

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#4

A bit of an issue has been discovered by a member today. The saw rubs on the wall and will only cut miters to the left. It can muster around 5 degrees going the other way.

Another issue is that the saw’s fence is inline wt the in-feed and out-feed fences on the bench. While this might be okay if you were cutting cutting perfectly straight material(aluminum extrusions), it doesn’t really work with rough lumber. The only place we care about is the actual fence that is within a couple of inches of the blade. We are better off if the saw is proud of the bench’s fences so we can cut bowed lumber straight.

Moving the saw forward an inch or so could solve both of these issues at the same time.

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#5

The rub issue has been noted and a fix is underway.

Disagree on the fence- station fence is set 1/32 back from the saw fence to prevent binding but if the station fence is not there to align straightness with the saw, why have it at all. Setting it an inch back from the saw would completely negate its purpose.

#6

Outside of a stop block, it has no purpose. I guess maybe to keep stock on the table. The only area that has any value is where the saw blade crosses the saws fence.

#7

Hmm. I’ve never seen a miter station with the fence completely offset from the saw- the fence for the Bosch was set 1/32 back. I didn’t set the fence for kapex, but when I checked it, it was between 1/32 and ‘true’ to the saw fence.

#8

I see. 1234567890

#9

I thought the main reason for a long fence at a miter station was to place stop blocks so you could do repeated cuts. The 18" or so span of a miter saw should be enough to line up and support any length board for a square cut as long as the board is clamped down you should be ok. But… how many of us clamp our work down? The long fence 1/32" set back keeps long boards from moving when cut with out locking down.

1 idea: For bowed boards, think about flipping the offset in the discussion above - instead of offsetting the fence 1" back. Add a 1" (or 1/2" or what ever thickness works) x 12" or so long sacrificial block between the fence and a bowed board. The board will be supported against the fence by the transitive property of sacrificial blocks and the bow won’t hit the wood fence. Yes, capacity will be reduced by the thickness of the block. This achieves the same thing as moving the wood fence back. Don’t forget to clamp the piece down!!!

2nd idea: flip the bowed board so the board arches away from the wood fence. This won’t work for an “s” bow. Don’t forget to clamp the piece down!!!

Make sense?

3 Likes
#10

the purpose of the long fence is also to help easily align and move long pieces. Anything over about 4ft gets kinda tricky to get proper alignment if you are only using the fence on the miter saw.

#11

I think this :point_up: is the biggest thing to consider. While I see the benefits of each placement, I think a flush set is the best choice for all of us who choose to stick with just a hand for clamping our piece down. :man_facepalming::man_shrugging:

#12

This explains so much as to my inability to get square on this machine. I agree with @Taylor_Quimby this should be flush across the entire table fence clamped or unclamped. This eliminates any confusion or problems especially those where the board does not span across the saw.

#13

Clamping should only be done At the saw fence, which is why the manufacturers provide the clamping mechanism.

1 Like
#14

Here is another option. Dont know if it would be better or worse but it is interesting.

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#15

Sounds like there may be enough interest in this to discuss at a committee meeting?

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#16

I like it. Clever to put the t track in the table top.

I vote to at least discuss at next woodshop committee meeting.

The best part of this is that there will be even more room for people to leave junk on the miter station!!!

5 Likes