I just wanted to let everyone know that I will be putting up more Lustre/Overglaze/Decal classes in the beginning of November so that everyone has a chance to prepare and make pieces for it before then. Because I know there are many people who wanted to try it, but didn’t have anything already glazed and ready for it. I am also planning to have some textured and smooth tiles in different sizes for people who just want to try it and learn about the process. If you have any other requests or questions, please let me know!
P.S. This process would be really nice on decorative items or holiday items such as ornaments and stuff, just to kind of give some ideas!
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Just to confirm for decal classes- we need to already have glazed pieces, right? Does it matter if it’s glossy or matte?
Yes, it should be glossy
OK! I put up 3 classes again in November, on the 11th, 13th, and 14th! So everyone get your things ready for Lustre and decals before then 
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Where do you typically purchase your decals at? I’d like to look for a couple specific things to have for this firing.
Thank you 
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https://www.nationalartcraft.com/group19.htm
https://www.foragestudios.com/decal-love/
You can also find a bunch on ebay, just type in ceramic decals or waterside decals… the company I got the textured decals from was in the uk and the owners retired 
Don’t forget you can also have any of the gazillion i have!
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I found some trout fishing decals on ebay
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I found what I needed on eBay…thank you!
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I found that Ceramic Shop also does custom decals…
https://www.theceramicshop.com/content/1314/Custom-Decal-Information/
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Also there are all these gold, colorful and other different kinds of decals at Sanbao, where you can also get underglaze transfers
So I just went to that site to read about their custom decals and saw they also sell the raw decal paper (Sanbao Studio link). Where can you find the correct underglaze/overgraze ink? We can make our own using a silk screening process like they do. The silkscreening class at DMS is fun too!
Those would only be for the underglaze transfers… And yes, you can use the regular screens to make some… I haven’t done that yet… But I know @JBluJkt has tried it. Perhaps he will put up a class for it someday But… you can also do those light exposure ones that you can get from https://ezscreenprint.com/products/diy-basic-screen-printing-starter-kit… That are supposedly really easy to make, you can just expose them in the sun. You just have to make your underglaze thicker by adding a medium, or you can leave it open to dry out a bit or you can microwave it… But those screens can also be applied to the pots directly, instead of putting them on the paper first.
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That would actually be a cool class! I actually already have a screen from taking the class at DMS. 
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Sooooo – while I don’t know for sure, I’m thinking that you’d be using underglaze to make underglaze decals. Like Christy said, it might take something a bit special to make it work evenly, but it really should be underglaze.
If you already have the screen… You can just thicken your underglaze and use it directly on the greenware or bisque pots… There’s this potter on instagram, called pinkkisspottery you should check out. All of her graphics are from the ezscreenprint tools… I like her handbuilt/thrown stuff 
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My experience is with decals for building models, not making pottery though I think they may be similar if not identical.
Alps used to make printers which can print in white as well as metallic silver and gold, but they have become quite rare outside of Japan. Though the output is quite nice, these printers are very cantankerous.
There are newer printers which can print using white toner but not metallics.
I do not suppose there is enough demand among the model builders, potters and VECTOR to even think about acquiring and operating one of these.
My question now is what is the best resolution which can be reliably achieved with screen printing from art work created using a computer? Think in terms of something like the lettering on the dashboard of a model car.