Leveling a project

Woodshop MultiCam SIG
#1

I tried searching for this but did not find an answer. I just finished a resin pour table and need to level the surface before sanding. I have seen others use the multicam to level largo pieces of live edge but never asked for a procedure.

I’m assuming that i would use a spoilboard leveling bit but also want to know if there is a leveling program inside of vcarve. It would matter how much overlap was given with each pass, speed, depth, and maybe even direction.

If anyone has experience in this can you point me in a direction? I’m assuming I will need to purchase the bit too. Would this be the 1/2 inch spoil board bit with a 2 in radius? Project is 3’x5’ black walnut and epoxy.

Thanks for any advice. I have a good bit of money in the project and don’t want to hurt it or the machine.

#2

There’s a pre-built function that’s typically used to resurface spoilboard.

1 Like
#3

You could do this as a large pocket operation. You’ll have control over overlap but less control over direction. I’d have to jump into VCarve and check what options you have there.

You could always hand-code the gcode if you need really specific behavior. It’s not rocket science.

1 Like
#4

I’ve flattened countless projects on the Multicam, I just use a pocket and then I can co trol overlap and the rest. I do use a 2" flattening bit with 1/2" shank.

2 Likes
#5

Thank you. Any tips on how much to take off in each pass and the travel speed? I don’t want to break it.

I’ve been in there when others have leveled a project and thought wow they must be doing it wrong based on the extreme amount of noise.

I was thinking 1/8 to 1/4 at a time. Im not sure on the travel speed though our if conventional or raster is preferred.

#6

1/4 is way way too much. 1/32 to 1/16 is more reasonable. That said, I tend to be conservative.

1 Like
#7

I used to try to do too much, and I never got close to a 1/4" in a pass. Ive found the sweet spot to be between .06" and .08" depending on the hardness of the wood. I go 18000 rpm and 200 inches per minute, I do slow down though if it sounds like its struggling.

#8

Look at it this way…if you had a planer that could do the job in a single pass, you’d probably be taking 3mm or less per pass. That planer would be removing material from the entire width of the piece. This loading is what limits how much you can take off in a single pass.

If it is soft wood like pine or mdf, 1/16" is reasonable. If it is ironwood, 1/16" is insane.

Take it slow, you’re not trying to make a business out of it. You don’t have years of experience with the tools to know where you can make shortcuts.

I’m not trying to be mean, just take it slow and if you’re making a mistake, you’ll have a better chance of catching it before it gets out of hand.

#9

Put your piece on a larger piece of MDF for the vacuum to grab and use brads to nail down blocks of wood around the perimeter to keep your piece from moving sideways in any direction. DO NOT screw or nail anything into the spoilboards. Use a piece of MDF or plywood.

2 Likes