Lets Talk ROTARY TUMBLER

Hatcher's Armory
#1

##Rotary Tumbler for Hatcher’s Workshop

It has been over a month since we stopped using the old rotary tumbler in Hatcher’s Workshop due to over heating issues. In that time, I dived head deep into Vibratory tumbling and @wandrson donated a great hornady vibratory tumbler. The hornady does a great job, but vibratory tumbling doesn’t seem to do well as cleaning out the primer pockets or removing heavy tarnish / discoloration on the brass.

So now I’m wondering if we have any rotary tumbling smart guys around DMS?

I remember talking to a member that was going to build us a rotary tumbler, but I haven’t run into him at the space since. I’m wondering what everyone feels are the key features in a rotary tumbler?

Please feel free to Add your features to the list.

##Key Features:

  1. Tumbling canister
    -Need a source to get a nice medium to large tumbling canister
  2. Drive Motor
    -Need a source for a drive motor that can run for hours on end with out getting hot, probably won’t have external cooling.
  3. The Tumbler frame
    -I’ll check Hatcher’s for the old frame today at lunch, if it is still there I’d suggest we use that.
#2

Nick,

I’d like to build a lager rotary tumbler as well - not for brass though.
I saw one in person at an estate sale (i’ll try to find the photos) it was hexagonal (wood), belt drive and very very basic.

I’d suggest a gear reduction drive attached to the given motor you choose

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#3

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#4

interesting design,
I wonder if it could handle water, and how hard it would be to clean?

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#5

https://cdn-us-ec.yottaa.net/52d77d978b5f02370e0332cc/www.lehmans.com/v~12.9c7/images/product/small/2457.jpg?yocs=_&yoloc=us

With the proper construction techniques, water should be no problem. Cleaning can be facilitated by using a hard spar varnish finish on the inside. You could also have different containers dedicated to particular media, so cleaning becomes less of an issue.

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#6

I picked up a 90 degree gear reduction drive ($10 at an estate sale) for future tumbler build. I like the idea of wood as a natural noise reducer vs metal, plus the relative ease of construction.

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#7

Kind of interesting how deep it has polished/eroded into the face of the door.

#8

That exposed grain is a “feature” - features usually cost extra.

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#9

As long as it’s used for a tumbler that I can clean brass in, I have a 3/4hp motor to donate. It’s a bit bigger than the motors shown in the other posts though.

#10

I’m planning on loaning my rotary tumbler to Hatcher’s. I’ll bring it the next time I’m at DMS.

Russell

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#11

I’ve been reloading a very long time, and never saw a case a rotary coud clean that a vibratory couldn’t. It’s more a matter of media than the tumbler type, and I think vibes do a better job cleaning primer pockets than rotaries. Tumblers can usually do more cases at a time though.

For really dirty cases, run them 15-30 minutes with walnut hulls to clean, then switch to corn cob with a capfull of Nu Finish car wax until bright. When cases won’t get bright, the media is worn out.

I use a lyman pocket uniformer to clean the primer pockets either way. Both tumbler and Vibes will lodge kernels of media in the flash hole. The uniformer will tell you when your pockets are getting too long (gets too easy to turn).

#12

Have you tried a rotary tumbler with stainless steel pins? The cases come out looking brand new, inside and primer pockets too. The vibrator does a “good enough” job but if you want to gild the lily you use the rotary. I will admit that the rotary has the drawback of using water in the media and that may be a showstopper for many people.

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#13

Would definitely be interested in seeing them yes.

Here’s a link: http://www.stainlesstumblingmedia.com/reloading-products/media.html

$40 a bag, but lasts forever? Hmmm.

#14

I want to build a fairly large rotary tumbler at the DMS by summer - approx size of drum would be 18-30" long x 16-28" in dia,(flexible on size) hexagonal or octagonal not exactly for brass but I’d like to see how it would function on items like delicate (relative term there) brass and for misc hardware found in my garage projects from nuts and bolts etc to aluminium / magnesium casings / housings etc.
I have a few small to medium single phase 110V AC motors, and picked up a 90 degree reduction gear drive in hopes of keeping the budget “maker” friendly and for those with budget restraints
attached is a pic of the right angle gear reduction I picked up for $5 or $10 with plans for a tumbler. I’ve never built one but have seen several “home built” units perform quite well but with dry and wet media.

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#15

@tom it would be great if the tumbler could accept multiple container sizes. That way we could build containers to best suit the media or material being tumbled.

I like the vibratory tumblers. But, I haven’t been able to get the results of tumbling with stainless steel pin in a rotary tumbler. @Tapper, the stainless steel pins not only clean the primer pockets, they polish them as well as the insides of the case. The tumbling with water is a large draw back, but being able to bring back heavily tarnished brass to new in about an hour is a large benefit.

As for the Lyman pocket uniformer, this is an area we are lacking. We don’t currently have anything in case prepping other than the reloading dies and any suggestions on options would be appreciated.

#16

The uniformer is one of those tools that typically are only used when loading rifle ammunition for extreme accuracy. However, if you have it, its useful for other things too. I have quite a few tools used for that purpose, like flash hole uniformers, flash deburring tool, outside neck turners, neck reamers, bushing dies, etc. Not needed for >1MOA guns, but for long range, varmint, benchrest, etc - very necessary tools.

There’s sort of a progression you go through in reloading. You start out wanting cheap ammo, and gradually over time, begin perfecting your product. This leads into new types of shooting as well. There’s nothing like 1,000 yard shooting, to force you to seek perfection of load and rifle, and all the knowledge and tools that go with it.

#17

Yep, I get what you mean. I’m currently entering that progression under the guidance of @Gimli. But, I’m wanting to do it the hard way. Iron sights and sling prone. I look to bench rest and F class if I fail the patience test of sling prone.

#18

This is how a hobby goes from tinkering to “I need more room” evolution of sorts

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#19

Nick,

That’s not the hard way. That’s the right way.

The skills you learn shooting “service rifle” style shooting, off a sling, and good iron sights, transfer directly to every other shooting sport. If you can get good in that unforgiving style, you will find it easy to excel at the other styles of shooting.

I started with NRA smallbore, in the basement of a National Guard armory at the age of 12, and kept at it until I started winning relays, then winning matches, etc. I’ve since found it very easy to transition into other areas and competitions.

There’s no real secret to becoming a good shot. 1.) Learn correct form. 2.) Practice that form perfectly, and often. 3.) Compete.

Competition is what drives you out of mediocrity. It forces you to tame bad habits, be in control mentally, and develop solid reflexes, and to practice enough to improve. Its also fun as hell, and a great way to meet people that have similar interests, and have something to teach you. The sooner you start shooting matches, the faster you’ll get better!

#20

Practice makes perfect (how I used to dread that phrase as a kid with piano lessons) is just that, with most everything we do in life. Toss in a little muscle memory and it becomes even more comfy and less like “work”

practice or train - whatever the term - it produces a similar result. the more you do it the easier it becomes.