Leatherworking updates and Project classes

Creative Arts Leatherworking
#1

Leather-working Cabinet
I cleaned up the leather-working cabinet this week. Tools, and supplies are organized by use and type. I found a few tools that need to be replaced and I’ll have those in the cabinet by next week.

Supplies Needed Sheet
Inside the door of the cabinet is a sheet where you can list items needed. We’re not going to stock every color dye, so when those run out the run out, but like with the Vinyl, we’ll keep larger (more affordable) containers of standard dye colors in particular. Just list anything that has run out, or a tool suggestion if you have one. I’ll be by at least once a week to look and will accommodate as needed.

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Training Required for Cabinet Use
The cabinet is currently listed as Training Required before use. I’m working on pushing this to Moodle, so you can get yourself signed off without having to attend an Intro Class. The moodle course will contain the minimum amount of information you need to use the cabinet. I still encourage newly interested persons to attend an Intro class because it covers many other related topics.

Moving forward, Project Classes will also fulfill this requirement.

Training Required for Pfaff Sewing Machine
This will continue to require training before use.

Instructors Wanted
If you are interested in teaching, and have leather-working experience, shoot me a message so I can get you connected. We have a pretty good system for classes, but could use more of them, with greater variety.

Templates
I’m putting together some acrylic templates that will live in the cabinet. Any member can use these to make their own items with their own leather. Belts, Coin Pouches, Pencil Cases, Field Notes Book Covers, Cord Tacos will be the first.

Project Classes
I will be back to having project classes this month. Classes are limited to 5 slots due to tools, space, and my ability to only split my attention 5 ways. You don’t want to see what happens when I split 6 ways. There is typically a fee to cover the material cost. Classes are typically scheduled 2.5-3 hours so the items we make are things that can be completed in that time-frame. When all goes well, you get to walk away with an item you made, paying only material cost, and (hopefully) gaining the skills you need to make other on your own.

Feedback
I would love some feedback. Ideas and suggestions are welcome!

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#2

“Training required for cabinet use” includes the contents of the cabinet! :smiley:

As in, don’t pull out the Barge cement out if you don’t know you’re not supposed to ensure the top doesn’t get glued onto the bottle when you’re done.

rant off

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#3

Ha, yes and things like using the punches with the polyboard and not directly on the wooden table! Or worse, the granite slabs!

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#4

Hey, that Nigel dude online punches directly onto his wooden work surface.

(right, moron, but he uses a freakin’ tree stump in his workshop, not a table)

#5

He does indeed! with the end grain, which is why that works.

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#6

@Webdevel any idea when those project classes are going on the calendar?

#7

The first project class will be on 4/18 @6pm. I’ll be posting that class tonight. I’m picking up the supplies for it after work today, then I need to measure how many units I can get out of the side of leather, then I’ll know what the material cost will be.

If all goes well, I’ll submit the class tonight, then it will be live for registration Monday evening.

Edit: This project class is going to be a Medieval Belt Pouch, since we are entering the Scarborough Ren Faire season.

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#8

First class is posted and will be open for registration on Tuesday at 8:30am.

https://calendar.dallasmakerspace.org/events/view/5730

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#9

Other than cleaning off the top, is there some good way to do this? (I’m not being snide … I’m trying to learn because it’s an issue with contact cement at home).

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#10

You can smear a light (LIGHT) coating of vaseline on the threads. It’s best to do it when you first open a new bottle, then screw the top back on to coat the threads on the top too. I do this with my rubber cement bottles at home too.

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#11

I really wish I would have know about coating the threads on the can and lid. I used a waterproofing product on certain electrical connections I used to make for direct burial in the ground. The product came in pint cans with a brush in the cap. I would use maybe 4 or 5 milliliters to seal the connection. Put the cap back on the can - it would never come off again! I tried many times to get the caps off the cans. Usually I just gave up and bought another can. If I was particularly determined on a given day, I would end up applying so much force I would twist the top off the can.

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