The three issues to consider are heat, glass type (crystal or glass), and glass shape.
1. Heat
Three things about this:
- Limit your engraving size/density (see below).
- Epilog suggests NOT using black as the engraving color because it ablates too much glass. They suggest ā80% greyā, which is #333333. I have used this with a large, high density engraving with very good success. My glass was much thicker but I got crisp clean engraving without ātearoutā.
- A laser artist recommends painting the glass with cheap black acrylic paint and washing it off after engraving as another way to reduce ablation. I have not tried this but itās easy enough to experiment.
EDIT:
Iād be surprised if a second rotation of the glass is in precisely the same location as the first rotation because the rotary attachment depends on rubber wheels that may or may not give you exact repeatability. Buy some cheapo dollar store glasses and definitely experiment with this before committing a good glass.
2. Glass Type
Higher lead contents increase the risk that heat will build up from the laser engraving process and crack the crystal as it cools down (i.e., if youāre considering leaded crystal for all these glasses it increases the chance that it will crack). I have read that you should only engrave small text and logos on crystal - large surface engravings are more likely to crack it (so that engagement photo youāre thinking about might not be the best choice of engraving )
3. Glass Shape
The shape of your glass is a significant factor to consider. The two issues are holding the glass so the engraving surface is level (i.e., always equidistant to the laser head) and correcting your artwork so it isnāt warped when it is engraved on the glass.
A linear taper is easy to deal with. You can level it in the laserās rotary tool and you can correct your artwork easily. Watch this YouTube video, paying particular attention to the instructions at ~8:50 to pre-warp (unwarp?) your artwork. (This is the artist who recommends using the black paint). If itās a gentle taper and a short piece of artwork (like a line of text) you probably donāt have to warp your artwork but itās very easy to do using Photoshop or Adobe Illustrator.
If your glass has a curved profile (not just round), that could be a challenge. Different parts of it will be different distances from the laser. That means that parts of the image will be blurry. Blurry translates to more ablation and a higher risk of breaking the glass. If itās a very gentle curve and youāre engraving short artwork in a spot that can be held linearly you may be OK. If you figure out how to pre-warp your artwork to correct for a curved surface, please share that. Iād love to know how.