Knife roll question

[MadScists]

So to start this off, I’m not exactly sure what I would put this under (creative arts maybe?) So I’m going to throw it under DMS General and if it needs to move, by all means.

As some of you know, I go out of town quite frequently and when I do I am almost always requested to cook at least once while I’m there.

That being said, I have found that most people don’t tend to have good, proper equipment but the most common are knives and boards.

So I started carrying my most used knives and honing steel in a makeshift knife roll.

Now, I’m not cleared on the sewing machines but I can hand Stitch and I damn sure can rivet, lol!

So now that brings me to my questions.
I am debating whether or not to go with leather or canvas. I see the benefits of both, but I’m looking at long-term durability and if there’s an advantage of one over the other.
Where would the best place to get said materials be?
I know tandy leather is a great outlet for leathers, rivets, tools, Etc. But I have no idea where to find a couple of yards of canvas to buy.
If canvas turns out to be the best way to go, can it be dyed like leather? Would I have to worry about the dye running on my knives, especially in this heat?
And last question, are there patterns for knife rolls or would it be easier / better to customize a pattern based on my personal needs?

Thanks!

[j801496]

Leather will make you look cooler. And these are very easy to make. I’ve done some. I’m more then happy to help you make one. Let me know.

[MadScists]

Thank you for the offer, I might take you up on that!

Honestly, I don’t really care how cool I look at this point. I just am sick of carrying my knives at a makeshift knife roll using a bath towel and a bungee cord, lol!

I should be back in town Sunday so Monday I’ll swing in to Tandy Leather on Northwest Highway (if it’s still open, I noticed that Irving wasn’t anymore), checkout prices and maybe get recommendations on what leather to use.
I know I’m going to want something soft enough to roll, but strong and thick enough to resist knife edges and points.

I was thinking that a black knife roll with red rivets and red tie strings would look pretty cool, lol!

[Lordrook]

Paging @Webdevel as I know he has made a few, and he likes both leather and canvas for different things.

[j801496]

Just an FYI, Tandy on Northwest is closed. For the leather, I would use chrome tanned, it’s softer and you can roll it. For weight, 4-5 oz. A utility side is really good for this. Tandy’s red rivets are glass domed or something like that. I would highly recommend waxed breaded cord for hand stitching, It’s very strong.

[Webdevel]

I’ve only used Tandy’s Oil Tanned Leather for my knife rolls. Queue folks saying that chrome tanned leather is terrible for knives because of chromium salts in the leather. I’ve been storing my pocket knives in an oil tanned roll for years with no issues.

The only recommendation I have for you about rivets is to consider brass rivets. They’re softer and wont’ mar your knives if they come in contact. Here are a couple examples. Not what you’re looking for since these are for pocket knives, and not chef knives, but the construction isn’t too different.

[Album] Dark Brown Knife Roll 7/26/2016

[Album] Leather Knife Roll - Large - Brown Chrome Blue

[MadScists]

I like those!

Thanks for the the suggestion about the brass rivets, I hadn’t thought about that aspect of it.

Also thank you for the heads up on the salts in the Chrome tan process. I have a few very nice high-carbon knives that long-term exposure to something like that would probably be detrimental.
I have other nicer knives that are not as high a carbon hence doesn’t require as much maintenance, so those I wouldn’t be as worried about, but still.

I do like the idea of the oil tanned, just because I always have a very light coating of either vegetable or olive oil on my high carbon knives when stored and using oil tanned leather would imply that my olive oil / vegetable oil wouldn’t damage the knife roll I’m probably most likely benefit it.

[MadScists]

Are there any more tandy’s in Dallas still open?

[j801496]

I like the one in Mesquite. (I didn’t know chrome affects metal. ) But you only really need a couple square feet of leather. You don’t need a whole side. I have aprox 25 sides and I do have oil tanned but it’s brown. You are welcome to a couple feet of you want.

[HankCowdog]

There is a Tandy store in Allen, TX on the west side of 75 and south of McDermott. Faces the Target parking lot, so not visible from 75.

[MadScists]

Awesome!
Thank you!

I was actually going to look it up when I finally took a break for lunch, LOL!

[HankCowdog]

@Webdevel

I’ve only used Tandy’s Oil Tanned Leather for my knife rolls. Queue folks saying that chrome tanned leather is terrible for knives because of chromium salts in the leather. I’ve been storing my pocket knives in an oil tanned roll for years with no issues.

I second this suggestion. An oil-tanned, smooth “pull-up” leather would give a nice, distressed look with a lot of character to the roll.

Stoned Oil Sides

FWIW, oil tanned leather is not actually tanned with oil: it is chrome-tanned and then has oils added.

That being said, modern quality chrome-tanned leather should have virtually no chrome left in it. I made a chrome tanned tool roll for my Leatherworking punches and have had no corrosion issues after several years of use.

I sometimes make simple sheaths for forged knives I make. I like oiled leather for sheaths as it helps keep steel knives (non stainless) from rusting/tarnishing. Oil-tanned or oiled vegtan both work well. This is a vegtan sheath to which I added neatsfoot oil, lanolin, and beeswax.

Harness leather is another option: it is vegtan leather with oil, tallows, and wax added for durability and water resistance. Usually only available in heavier weights, so better for sheaths than rolls.

[dryad2b]

Since @HankCowdog has said that chrome-tanned hasn’t given him any issues, you may be able to purchase some lovely black from Creative Arts. And, you could probably rub that with some of the oil you normally use on the knives.

I’ll try to take a pic of what we’ve got when I get to the Space tonight. Although, you’ll probably still need Tandy for the rivets. Depending on where you live, the main Ft Worth store is also open. That may be it for the Metroplex, though. Capt’s had been going to the Allen store as they closed most of the rest of them, but from the Space, it’s not much further to the Ft Worth store, and they have Everything (everything that Tandy has, that is).

[MadScists]

Good information to have, thank you!

[MadScists]

@dryad2b

And, you could probably rub that with some of the oil you normally use on the knives.

That is true.
Maybe @Webdevel or @HankCowdog could chime in here and confirm if this is a good idea or not.
I personally don’t see why you would be bad or harmful to the leather, but as has been demonstrated in this post, my leather knowledge is pretty much limited to how to care for Saddles, boots, jackets and automotive interior, lol!

@dryad2b

I’ll try to take a pic of what we’ve got when I get to the Space tonight.

Thank you, I would like to see what is available.

[HankCowdog]

@dryad2b

And, you could probably rub that with some of the oil you normally use on the knives

With care, yes. Some oils could be problematic.

I’d avoid Neatsfoot compound - low quality mystery stuff.

100% Neatsfoot oil is ok for leather but can eat cotton stitching. Fine with synthetic thread.

I use 100% Neatsfoot oil and “Sno-seal” (winter boot waterproofing with beeswax and lanolin) on knife sheaths. For a food-safe option I’d use olive oil and beeswax.

FWIW, my wife uses olive oil on her horse tack as well - learned it in Pony Club many years ago.

Note that many oils can darken leather - buying oil tanned would give you a more predictable final color bs adding oil. Obviously this would not be a problem with black.

[MadScists]

Awesome!
So olive oil should be okay, which is good because that’s what I usually use on my higher carbon knives after I clean them.

[LizW]

I would love to learn how to do a knife roll or sheath. It would be great if one of you would be interested in teaching a class.

[HankCowdog]

Here’s the thread from a couple years ago showing the roll I made for my Leatherworking punches. Basically, you fold in the sides of the roll to make two layers, then sew pockets out of those layers. Pockets for knives would obviously be larger.

For a knife roll you might only put pockets on one side and leave a loose flap to cover the handles on the other, or alternate the pockets on both sides so the knife handles interleaved.

[dryad2b]