Jeweler's saw recommendation


I’m looking at acquiring a jeweler’s saw to cut recycled circuit boards for use in resin for jewelry/art projects.
I don’t want to break the bank, but also don’t want to throw $$$ away.

Any recommendations for a moderately priced tool for this purpose?

Thanks in advance!



Are you looking for a “manual” jeweler’s saw?

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There is likely a saw frame in jewelry if you wanna test-drive.

For your own purchase, Rio Grande has several. The cheap ones (German and Swiss styles) are actually reasonably decent. People seem to love or hate the more expensive red Knew Concept one. Ymmv. I have not personally used it.

My preference from Rio is the Swiss one. (Prefer more than the German one). Relatively cheap, handle is comfortable, easy to switch blades, adjustable. It comes in regular and wide flavors. Recommend getting the smaller if it’ll fit to the center of your project. The wide one ok but more awkward (translates to more easily careening out of control = more broken blades). I only use my deep one if I’m working on something bigger.

Link to the inexpensive Swiss one I like most:

Also can get saw blades from Rio. There’s a chart for matching saw blade number to thickness of your material.

I like Herkules or Laser Gold brand blades. Don’t cheap out on saw blades. Life’s too short for the aggravation. Might consider the wax lubricant stuff. But can use beeswax or a candle in a pinch too. With what you’re cutting, who knows.

Of course, if you really wanna a beautiful saw that is well balanced and a dream to use…this one is awesome. (I have it too) :heart::heart::heart:

They also sell them through if you need blades too. One stop shopping

Personally, I’d test drive one in jewelry and see if a jewelers saw works for you.

If you’ve never used one, not hard, but a few tips and tricks to make things go smoothly and not bind/break blades. And yeah, you want extra blades :slight_smile:

Ask if you need help on the how to use part. Lots of us can help there

You’ll likely find a bench pin useful if doing more interesting shapes.

There’s jewelers benches (right height) with bench pins in jewelry. Might stick a piece of leather or layers of paper under your circuit board so the soldering underneath doesn’t scar up the bench. Please :slight_smile:

If you want an inexpensive portable bench pin for at home, this ones is great (or you could make it).

I also made sturdy frame from 2x4” drop offs (thx Home Depot bin) that I clamp to my desk at home for sawing and piercing. It puts the setup at an ergonomic level for sawing.

Main thing, wherever you saw, make sure it is rock-solid, no shimmy or movement or you’ll be cursed with more broken blades.



This is an affirmative post with sufficient characters.


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Wow. This has so much great info.
Like I told someone the other day: Access to tools is a definite value of DMS membership. But the community is priceless. (Just skim over those “other” Talk posts…)

Thank you so much!



Rock Barrel on Floyd Road near TI Blvd. has a few jeweler saws. Cant speak to quality, as I’ve never used one, but you could at least hold them in your hand to see how they feel. Manufacturers may match up to those on Rio Grande.

And if you’re into wood, Wood World is right next door for your perusing pleasure as well.



I have a cheapy jeweler’s saw from Rock Barrel and it’s always been adequate. The big question is if you are using the proper saw blade for what you are cutting. If you are cutting the fiberglass circuit board you might use a wood fret saw or the very coarse grade blade of a jewelry saw.



Or you might buy your own blades and use the Excalibur scroll saw in woodshop, assuming that it’s working.



alternative suggestion- use the smaller bandsaw or the scroll saw then sand the edges down with 400 grit. But that really depends on how much detail you plan to put into the cut board pieces.



Cutting fiberglass is not very excellent.

It generally should be an outside event if it is any quantity. The cut throws fiberglass into the air and into other nearby machines. Increase lung issues and machine friction.

I think the hand saws would not create much of an issue. The motor driven, not so good.


  • Use a Dremel with a cutting wheel
  • Wear a dust mask
  • Do it outside

Edit: for straight cuts,

  • Score it
  • Break it


Thx! I was wondering about best way to break down to manageable size. I know how I’d tackle a sheet of metal, but not a circuit board. Thx for the tips (score/break)



Fibrous material does not score/break easy and when you add in metal “veins” and components its even more problematic.

Is a Jeweler’s saw just an expensive name for coping saw?

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A coping saw usually has a one piece frame and there are pins in the blade that hold it in place - and (relatively) coarse teeth. A jeweler’s saw frame usually has an adjustment for length and clamps at each end to hold the blade. Jeweler’s saw-blades are smaller and have tiny teeth.



Jewelers vs coping saw

Minor differences (Chris explained well) butworks similar

One big difference is the saw blades are really comparable to a wire in size, and teeth small enough it’s easier to FEEL their direction than see it when setting up the saw



Just an additional point because I’m OCD, a coping saw has offset teeth and a jewelers saw doesn’t, or at least might not.

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Annnd because y’all made me chase down the internet rabbit hole of jewelers vs coping saw blades, in addition to offset teeth and just general size, the coping saw blades have some reverse teeth at the ends that help clear things and cut down on shredded wood on the underside. The blades for jewelers saws don’t do that (I’m guessing mainly because used on metal and you still have to clean up edges anyway)…

That being said, you can technically use a jewelers saw nicely on thin wood.

Your life is now complete.

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Oh, and thx a lot. I think. All this sawing talk made me start rolling around projects.

I might have put a few supplies and new saw blades on my Christmas wishlist.

Cuz I don’t have enough projects going. Ya know.