Is it allowed to cut copper and brass on the Aluminum chop saw? Or is it Aluminum only?
Brass, NO. Use Cold Cut (Kalamazoo) saw. Copper, I’m not sure or if there are thickness limitations. My concern would be more with gumming up the blade. Some T6-T8 alloys are probably as hard as various pure copper at various hardnesses. @Team_Machine_Shop
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If you’re correct (and I’m not doubting that you are), then we need to update the wiki. The wiki says:
Soft Metals Saw
- Alum, brass, bronze, copper
- 1" or greater in diameter
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I’ll differ to the wiki. I just know brass can be cut on CCS and copper gums the blade.
John, what are you cutting in copper? We have the bandsaw that would make very quick work of it. Probably faster than either of those two saws by the time setup.
We could certainly try it to see how it looks.
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We have general purpose blades that are ok for almost anything. The green blade that is usually installed is specially built for aluminum, and costs $100.
Mostly standard pipe and gauged sheet for jewelry. But i also wondered about brass and bronze for options.
“Non-ferrous” in the saw broshure didn’t really address the differences in these metals.
I do know the band saw is an option. I like it for smaller cuts. But for repetition and precisiĂłn, the evolution is very tempting.
Is there not a guillotine sheer in Jewelry? Pipe would be best on the bandsaw or with tubing cutters. The pipe, if not careful, could become a projectile.
Good point about the guillotine for sheet.
Pipe cut offs becoming a projectile? I really cannot picture that. Most times that happens is from pinching, but the shell walls and diameters are so small, i don’t see that as a significant factor.
Historically speaking, the evolution saw has a track record of throwing parts. I’ve personally seen it happen on more than a couple occasions.
I believe that happens when the part contains thin sections, like a pipe wall, that can fall into the gullet of a tooth while cutting. Instead of removing a chip the blade grabs the part and pulls it against the fence, ruining part and blade, and possibly launching a piece of the part if it breaks off.
I’ve also seen it happen with thin aluminium angle sections.
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I personally caused it to happen (on a 1/2" diameter rod). I’m the reason we modified the wiki listing to say not less than 1" diameter. It’s difficult to adequately clamp small parts, especially round ones, and the smaller items get caught between the large teeth and then thrown.
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