Inset Cabinets - what tools (or tricks) do we have

Woodshop
#1

Hi, I’m looking to make a couple of inset cabinets for a wetbar and it’ll be my first attempt at inset high precision cabinets. I’ve watched plenty of youtube videos, so I know everything, right :wink:

Anyhow - first question is around breaking down the plywood. I’m sure I’ll have more latter.

Precise measurements and true 90s seem vital for the success. I was planning to use the Festool track saw to achieve a reference edge and take care of the rip cuts. Do we have the Festool Parallel guides to make repeatable cuts or do folks just rely on making a reference MDF spacer jig?

In terms of the cross cuts, I’ve seen the Festool MFT table used, although I’ve never seen one in the shop. What do people use to make a true 90 cross cut from a reference edge in lieu of the MFT table. Do folks just setup a triangle on a fence to setup the festool track?

Thanks for any tips or suggestions. I’d like to use the power of the tools we have at our disposal, but I’m not opposed to making jigs to get the job done.

Cheers - joe

#2

I’d break down the plywood sheet by making slightly oversized cuts with the Festool, then cut to final saw on the table saw.

Breaking things down to 1/2 or 1/4 sheet size makes wrangling on the table saw easier, and using the table saw will allow for precise and repeatable cuts for identical/similarly dimensioned parts.

If the parts are narrow enough, use the crosscut sled for perpendicular cuts. DON’T crosscut long parts using the fence - this can easily lead to a dangerous kickback.

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#3

For the SawStop, we also have this bad boy for cross cuts on larger/longer lengths of stock:

But to HCD’s point, the table saw is where the precision happens. Or CNC router, depending on…?

#4

Marshal, a sliding table would be to way to go! I have access to one near my shop now - closer than the Makerspace and a little niftier. You tube has a short animation of my friend’s saw below.

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#5

The Festool track saw is under the miter saw…
the tracks are hanging on the wall between the miter saw and shiny metal locked cabinets I like this method best. Easy peasy…

We also have. Panel saw over in work area by the kilns, that another method you can use to rip your plywood sheet(s) down…

Tip number 1… never use the factory edge on the plywood…cut them off…

Are you cutting drywall to inset? Or placing cabinets into an existing nook that’s covered in drywall? There are so many questions to advise tips and tricks…

Have you ever made a cabinet or a box? There is a process and the advise you will get will vary greatly depending on the style and technique the person uses to build and fit cabinets…

Are you building cabinets with or without face frames?

The best cabinet making video I’ve ever seen was from the wood workers guild of America… it’s teaches the basics and the process , which if the foundation of all cabinet making. Cabinet Making Essentials 5-Class Set + FREE Bit Set | WoodWorkers Guild of America

Bourbon Moth has a 4 part Video series on how to build cabinets with us also very good… Build Cabinets The Easy Way | How to Build Cabinets - YouTube

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#6

You’re heading into the expert’s expert territory with insets. Next step up is adding in beaded face frames like this. Take a second and zoom in on this one. This beaded frame is being produced by a (50 year) master cabinet maker / not me.

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I would humbly suggest you create a little basic face frame cabinet first. Get a feel for assembly. Get a feel for cutting everything. You’re correct in the comment things need to be square. “Precision”? All cabinets require precision. You will need to hit +/- 1/32 on all you cuts or you will have some subtle issues to deal with that require experience to resolve.

I do this type of work professionally and recently finished an inset job install. Fitting the doors was a fun time. I will admit shop fitted vs site fitted is a bit easier. Please consider that final adjustments on the drawers haven’t been made since the painting crew will be removing them.

You go from this:(time to roll up your sleeves and get started)

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To this: (Crap, nothing fits - Where is the nice gap? This rubs)

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And finally:

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Taking 3/32 off one side on a slope. This is not for the faint of heart. Don’t slip. Having to make a single door isn’t much fun.

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Oh, I also use the full Festool stack. Table saw is just for breaking down S3S face frame material (beech & maple).

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#7

Joe, good for you in recognizing that YouTube can be helpful, but is not a substitute for experience. You don’t mention any prior experience in cabinetry, but hopefully you are not a novice starting at the tough end of the scale.

For starters don’t assume anything at Makerspace cuts square. It very well may, and it may even have before the last user, but always start with the assumption that something has gone wrong in a community environment. Once you break full sheets down into manageable sizes, I agree with @mblatz that the table saw should be your friend … just check how it cuts and learn how to square both the blade and the fence if out of whack. Same goes for sleds and miter gauges, never trust … always verify. DMS didn’t get the nickname Dallas Breaker Space without a reason!

As for the inset cabinet … use MDF and build a prototype with at least one door and drawer if your design calls for them. Pay attention to how best to get identical parts if required. Once you have a well constructed proto, figure out what techniques got you there, and then build a second prototype exactly like you have now defined the process. Success? … move to a final build. Not quite right? … repeat until your refined process succeeds.

Stumped by something? Find a grey bearded woodworker and ask how they would tackle a step … or a younger expert like @andy (who seems to build any complicated thing imaginable). Most don’t mind mentoring, but be respectful of their maker time as well.

If you accept that this is a trial and learn process, you’ll come out the back end with a cabinet you like and be a better woodworker to boot.

Good luck!

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#8

The inset cabinet… Bane of the Perfectionist doing it the first time. Also the time you find out you are are living in

The House with No Square Corners

Built mine with maybe 1/4 inch clearance because I knew I would need a little play and hey, that is what molding is for. Got that cabinet jammed in good and tight and still needed 6 inches before getting to the wall it was to hang from. After fighting to get it out, made the cabinet a little smaller, more like an 1 of clearance, because that is what the face frame AND molding are there for.

So if you want to avoid having to repair dry wall and starting over, measure EVERYTHING. And hopefully you find you are not living in

The House with No Square Corners

But I wouldn’t hold my breath on that one.

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#9

Thanks for everyone’s inputs. Lots of great information shared here and countless years of expertise.

It looks like the shop doesn’t have the tools to really get this right, without a lot of trial and error. Im sure it can be done but it would be a laborious project.

My plan had been to rip off the factory cut edge with the Festool track saw, then index off of that edge for all rip cuts. Festool sells a parallel guide that allows for a repeatable (same size) parallel cut off that edge. It doesn’t look like the shop owns it. Similar on the cross cuts, their is a system.

I might need to rethink here. Thanks again for everyone’s inputs.

#10

I am only writing this so a future reader doesn’t go away with an incomplete impression.

DMS has all the tools necessary to build professional grade cabinets. Very few cabinets are produced using Festool equipment with the exceptions being “well heeled” hobbyists and a few low volume professionals doing very custom projects. They would be a very poor choice for a production cabinet shop due to cost and durability. 99% of the world’s cabinets are made with a table saw, miter saw, random orbit sander, palm router, Kreg jig, drill, and driver. they are built from cabinet plywood(not HD crap), and S3S face frame material, or just Melamine sheet for Euro style.

Just don’t always believe the YouTube portrayal of how pros work, or the tools they use. For instance, using the following tools *** is not *** a substitute for the basic woodworking skills of measuring & cutting to length accurately, or cutting sheet goods straight and square. These tools are used to speed the process and allow highly accurate work to be done in the field.

The the following tools are great and I use them, but they won’t make anyone with marginal skills good enough to make cabinets.

For cross-cutting
Festool 90 Degree Rail Square - YouTube

For ripping sheet goods.

Festool parallel guides - making repetitive cuts with a track saw - YouTube

In reality, most pros really dislike the Festool version. These two are much more popular.

But to use them effectively, you really need the following rail/track that costs $450.
:
Festool 491501 FS 3000 118" Guide Rail | The Tool Nut

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#11

swa got it right!