I think this may answer your question, Chris 
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Can you explain how to check and empty the dust collector in a post or is this better learned “hands-on”? As a novice in the woodshop I try to clean up in thanks for the help and support I’m always given there. Thanks!
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It is better learned hands-on…but just ask of those around you - my guess is someone can show you!
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I share your frustration, but don’t go thinking it’s not DMS wide in any area that’s heavily used. CA the morning of Christmas is a prime example. Hopefully Santa saw that…
I share your wish for a tidier 2017 at DMS!
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Yeah, people are not even trying to clean up after themselves. I guess we’re gonna be forced to make a few examples, to get everyone’s attention. Time for a committee meeting I think.
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Sounds like you’re perfect to start teaching Wood Shop Basics classes again and stressing the proper way to treat the space so new members are influenced to change the unfortunate de facto state of things… totally not saying that because I also want some wood shop basics classes on the calendar for myself. 
I’ve taken Woodshop Basics with @mblatz and he does stress the proper way to treat the space… Some people just don’t seem to care. 
They are scheduled pretty often. Keep your eyes on the Calendar! 
https://calendar.dallasmakerspace.org
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I happy to teach again when:
- Eye doctor say I can back into a dust/particle environment (recently had my eyeballs lasered)
- Teaching WSB class stops being an unsafe, frustrating, and embarrassing experience
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I’ve been using the wood shop quite a bit lately and have (with the help of others sometimes) have to spend quite a bit of time clearing out the filters and dust collectors.
It was bad enough at one point that even after clearing the small collector and turning it on, there was enough dust/chips in the pipes to fill it back half way just from stuff being stuck.
I’ve noticed a lot of members aren’t familiar with how to clean/dispose of the dust collection so maybe quick classes or meet ups to show everyone would be something we can do in the future.
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Wow - was at the woodshop yesterday…every person coming through and doing work was doing a thorough clean-up around the tools he or she had been using…maybe it is a new year! Thanks, all…
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I originally brought in the yellow brushes and have a bunch more at the house.
I can bring some soon. I bought they as twice as long for a buck a piece and just cut them in half with my bandsaw and put a nylon string on them.
Jeff
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Well that is absolutely tragic. 
(and just to be clear - NOT sarcasm)
On woodshop gripe chain -
Nick2h meanbaby
Thanks @Kriskat30 and @Azalaket for the hard stance on this. It is something that I wish we had done from the beginning.
@meanbaby, the main concern is the Filters on the dust collection units. When they are clogged (reading a pressure of 5), the dust collection system is not working at optimum performance. These filters are held onto the dust collector with 8 or 10 hooks. I believe the current plan is to remove the filter (loosen the threaded hooks) and blow it out behind DMS. At this time you can empty the collection can as well if needed. I’ll tell you it is much easier to empty half full rather than completely full. Then just reassemble the unit and you are good to go.
Make sure to do a good job blowing out the filter, because if you half ass it, you will just hook it back up and notice the pressure is still maxed. Meaning you will have to do the process again. If you have done a thorough blow out and the pressure is still maxed, make a post on talk as the filter may be fully clogged.
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And to set proper expectations from experience, it can take 15-20 minutes to fully blow out a clogged filter. Multiple iterations of flipping, blowing from the inside, blowing from the outside, flipping again, repeat, repeat, repeat. If you are still blowing out dust it needs more.
WEAR A DUST MASK WHEN BLOWING OUT THE FILTER
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I’m not a woodshop guy, but this brings up an interesting question for me. I took woodshop 101 a LONG time ago (in fact, have done so twice now) but don’t remember that we actually went over how to clean filters or any of these tasks during either of my 101 classes.
When performing these tasks, I assume that it effectively shuts down the woodshop?
Some people may be more timid about making other people stop their work so that they can do these things (clean out the filters and systems). This is as much a social problem as a technical one.
I might suggest that if you know what you’re doing, in cleaning out the systems, that an announcement over the loudspeaker system, letting people know around the entire building that you’ll be “teaching an impromptu class on how to perform these steps” would actually get a couple people to 1) help and 2) understand what needs to be done, so that we get more people to help out with the process, 3) warn the current users that you’re planning on interrupting their work in XX minutes.
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Can’t help with 2), but have a hint for 1). There are safety goggles made to be dust-tite (?) and can even be found in sizes to cover safety glasses. I have used these in industrial locations with lots of dust. No dust at all in my eyes. You do need to dust them off before removing so dust doesn’t come off the goggles and get in your eyes.
Good luck with your recovery.
Oops. Just realized this is a year ago post I am replying to.
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I spent about half an hour trying to clean out the filter last night (vacuuming, air compressor inside and out, taking it outside and shaking it, etc.), and even after i got almost all of the dust out of it, the vacuum still went all the way up to about a 4.5. Is there something that i am doing wrong? do you have any tips for proper cleaning of the filter? or is this possibly indicative of a larger problem with the vacuum?
the filter on the north side of the woodshop is shot and needs to be replaced, Andrew has new ones on order.
Zachary, filters present a bit of a paradox: this, from Bill Pentz’s exhaustive web site, which tells us that we want a certain amount of caking in the filter - it helps remove fine dust - but the tradeoff is reduced air flow. Here is the link: http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/dc_basics.cfm#Filters
Filtering Resistance
The maximum dust cake is important in sizing our filters because this is when a filter has the most resistance. Filter resistance changes as the filters get dirty. That resistance is at a minimum when a filter is new and clean. This resistance climbs until it builds a dust cake that provides maximum filtering with good airflow, known as when a filter becomes fully “seasoned”. As the filter continues to clog, the airflow drops until the airflow all but stops and the filter is at maximum resistance. Air engineers use this fully caked resistance level to size our filters large enough to flow the volume of air we want to move. This maximum resistance is also very close to when we need to deep clean our felt filters in a washing machine and start all over building up a whole new cake of dust.
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I a new member… taking the wood shop 101 this Thursday, so I can get access.
I’m kinda compulsive and clean up as I work… I should fit in OK.
Wood Haiku.
Sawdust flurries rise.
Causing Maker Space drama.
Messy, but smells good.
jeff
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