So, there’s kinda 3 major types of good 'irons.
#1 The Hakko FX888 type, with a ceramic heating element, and and “old style” soldering iron tip that’s just literally a metal sleeve for the element. These are the cheapest on the upfront cost and the consumables front, with the only problem of temperature overshoot and undershoot. If it’s your first iron you won’t notice. If you’re used to the Metcal’s in elab you’ll probably whine about it a bit but it won’t really affect what you’re doing unless you’re working with really large things or really small things.
#2 The Hakko FX-951 type. It’s a cartridge style, still technically a similar heating element, but the assembly is designed so the temperature measurement and heating has a much smaller K value in the PID loop which means it has less overshoot and undershoot with the trade off of the carts are more expensive than just simple “tips” and they are more prone to failure (IMO). Also a great choice, kinda a middle of the road option. These exist in the elab, you can check them out.
#3 The Metcal or RF type irons. These are pricey, but worth it if you’re using them day in and day out. If you make money off your soldering this is what you should buy IMO. They work off the magic of magentics and are “perfect” with no overshoot or undershoot, maximum power output right up until it hits the temp and then just what it needs to stay the perfect temp for soldering. The only two downsides are cost (new like $1k, used on ebay a couple hundred) and the fact that the soldering tip is fixed temperature. You have a tip for 351C, if you want 420C then you’d need a different tip. On the other types of irons you can turn a knob or fiddle with some buttons to set it how you like.
I personally own a FX-888 (non-D model because I like my analog turn knob instead of up arrow up arrow up arrow etc). I’m planning on purchasing a Metcal MX500 at some point, but for the last 15? years the FX-888 has served me well and I’ve put 1000s of hours on it with work, contracting, and play.