Without the original remote and typical lack of documentation, what are my options for getting this remote paired (433.92mhz)? I’m up for hacking the thing open and hardwiring something in, but it’d be great to keep it wireless.
Ok, finally had some time to tear this open. The RF receiver looks like a typical 433.92 MHz version, though the IC on it isn’t labeled or in any other way marked.
The receiver output feeds into another IC (UTC358), and I found this data sheet for it.
This is where my guessing game gets weak. If I’m wanting to provide a bypass for the RF receiver, I think I need to provide voltage to the opamp’s inputs.
Here’s the receiver on board:
And here’s power and what I’m thinking is the motor controller:
This replacement remote suggests the following pairing method:
“ * Pairing Method: Unplug the safety lock on the treadmill. Point the remote control at the display window of the treadmill within 10 seconds, and simultaneously hold down the start / pause button for about 3 seconds. When the system will beep, it means the pairing is successful.”
Also from the questions:
A: 1) Disconnect the safety clip from the treadmill (the one with the magnet)
2) Within 10 seconds, press and hold the power button on the remote and hold it close to the digital display on the treadmill. You should hear an interruption in beeping and then it goes back to constant beeping (the usual alarm indicating the safety is not connected).
3). Place the safety clip magnet back on to the treadmill. You should now be able to start the treadmill as usual.see less
Yeah, apparently that remote has been unavailable for quite a while. I’m keeping an eye out, but not hopeful that path will work out. The one I purchased can apparently pair with it if you can clone an existing remote.
@David_A_Tucker, it’s a pretty small treadmill (under desk/bed/couch), and there’s no other controller. There are literally no other (factory) ways to operate it.
I can try to get this 3rd party remote to sync.
The remote can transmit on multiple frequencies. During its programing, you set the frequency then capture a code from a working source. It’s non-rolling, so I might be able to just sync it with a remote that transmits on the right frequency (Chamberlain garage remotes being one), and see if the receiver will pair with that code.
I can try to hack together some sort of control interface (arduino, push button, whatever).
The output from the opamp goes into some sort of microcontroller (image below). There appears to be what looks suspiciously like usb headers below it. I’m way out of my depth trying to connect to an unknown microcontroller, but I’m not above trying I need 3 commands from the original controls: power, faster, slower.
Alternatively, I could bypass the brains, and just figure out how to turn the motor (control board pictured above with that large cap). This seems way simpler… seems being the optimal word.
That’s a USB socket pad, +5 V is USB (RS232 is +/- 3-15V). It looks like there is some silkscreen on that chip, can we get a better pic?
Raymond is right about the FTDI. That’s the chip Arduinos use to present a USB compliant interface for the uComp. If it is Chinese, they like to use the knockoff CH340 or CH341 chip, which emulates the FTDI, and you would need a different USB driver to mount it to a PC or MAC. So, if you put a USB connector on that pad, plug it into your laptop, load the USB driver, and mount the USB device; what are you going to use to command the treadmill?
I think pursuing your existing remote, or getting a Universal Remote to do it’s job, is the most likely path to success.
NO… It’s not USB. It’s TTL Serial from the controller. That’s why you have a TX/RX link pair. You need to hook it to the FTDI USB to TTL Serial adapter I linked to hook your PC’s USB to it.
@Raymond you are right, that’s a TX/RX serial from the CPU. Maybe used to program that CPU or for diags?
The most interesting chip is the TM1668, that is a display/keybutton interface. I found this schematic that they use in inductive cookers (and who knows what else?) I can see from the pic provided that there are through hole pins soldered in (going to a connector?)
I think you are missing the Display/Keypad for this treadmill…
There’s actually no keypad for this treadmill… yet. The display is on the flip side of the circuit board. It’s supposed to be entirely remote controlled. Here’s the chip:
@Raymond I soldered on some headers and attached an FTDI I had similar to the one you posted. No luck getting in so far, but I didn’t have long to test it.
Dumb question, but I shouldn’t need to connect VCC, correct? Just Rx, Tx, and ground? Also, my FTDI is labeled Rxd and Txd. Does that mean flip the cables (Rx to Txd, Tx to Rxd)?
They’ve rebranded, and are now Costway. I’ve reached out as they have the replacement remote on their site, but other users have said that they haven’t been in stock for months if not years.
They’re sold online only, but if I don’t make more headway, I may reach out on Nextdoor to see if anyone has one and would let me pair my remote.
I also found a few universal garage door remotes that might be able to transmit on the right frequency to pair…
Just a suggestion, but at the end it will look like this…
If you want to “hack” a control system, you will prly need to put that FTDI on the input from the radio receiver, not that easy port at the serial pad. Then you will prly have to brutal hack the command codes, which means you might have to watch the display (which hasn’t appeared in this thread yet) and wait for responses. At some point, a code sent like 0x324 might cause a response like “Increase Speed To XX”
In a nutshell, it looks like the code for this uComp is looking for inputs from the radio, which is a different interface than the one you are attempting to use.
It would really help if you posted front and back pics of this entire board, instead of close ups of the chips.
Good suggestion. I’ll try to snap some pictures and post those tomorrow.
I was also reading that the signal most of these controllers send to the driver board is just PWM. This particular one also has a relay that appears to be tied directly to the motor’s power that’s triggered by the safety switch. I’ll try to get a comprehensive set of pictures together.
Thanks everyone. I was trying to find a source for this remote and it is on backorder however I found a compatible 4 button remote on eBay that actually works better than the original. To answer someones question earlier “Why would you need a remote control for a treadmill?” The answer is that this treadmill is an underdesk model and needs a remote while you are using it unless you have a death wish and feel like adjusting the speeds by bending under your desk while the treadmill is in motion.