Replaced the rear brakes on my wife’s Camry this evening.
A few interesting issues arose: the disc was rusted tight on the passenger side, requiring the use of back-out screws to push it off of the hub. @LeeCJones helpfully suggested I use the handy thread-gauge-on-a-rope (no idea what else to call it) tool to figure out the bolt I needed, and @Fred_Miller is my hero for donating all that hardware to DMS! I found a couple of 5/32nds 18tpi bolts in the stuff he’d donated over in Machine Shop.
Next time you install the rotors use a little anti seize on the hub of the car where the rotor seats and this will not happen next time you need to remove the rotors (not on the pad surface of course)
I’ll be the pedantic ass and say…
I am reasonably sure the correct bolt for this job would be metric (most likely 8mmx1.25, since that’s what Toyota has been using since the advent of the separable hub/drum/disk).
Options are good, though, so if a Standard bolt size works, that’s great!
Another option: usually these situations can be resolved with a sharp blow from the ball end of a goodly sized ball-peen hammer (a 16oz. will serve you well), especially on lifetime-Texas vehicles. If the vehicle is from the rust belt, using both techniques and a torch is not outside the norm.
You might think they would be metric, but they’re not! At least on a 2009 Camry LE 4cyl. The old rotors are on the donation shelf, if you’d like to check it out. (BTW, these make great weights for a vise-on-a-pole or grinder-on-a-pole).
Yeah, I really whacked it good, but it resisted all efforts. I was a little worried until I found those bolts!
At least on a 2009 Camry LE 4cyl. The old rotors are on the donation shelf, if you’d like to check it out. (BTW, these make great weights for a vise-on-a-pole or grinder-on-a-pole).