Fusion360 Manufacture - Climb, traditional, or both selection

Hey Guys,
I am working through some surface finish issues, chatter I think, on the x-y plane surface. I believe most of it is vibration so I am going to use the jacks on the far right and left sides. The part is about 16" wide. I made soft jaws 1x2" 6061 that are 16" wide. So I think vibration is covered.

Would you guys use climb milling milling only help?


@procterc @TBJK @malcolmputer @nicksilva

What I was seeing. This was before I made the longer soft jaws and used the jacks.

yes I think a climb cut is the way to go.
Another approach here rather than the soft jaws is to add a 2nd vise and split the distance over the 2 vises. Just use the right size parallels on both and make sure they are indicated in to each other. The ends are well supported in the vises.
Otherwise, yes the jacks are necessary.

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@nicksilva thank you.

I agree with Nick. If it were me, two vices would be the way to go. Since I’m not sure we have two vices that are similar enough handy to mount in there, the jacks are an okish stop gap.

The Kurt vise in the Bridgeport should work. Btw it originally was on the Haas but kept getting removed and put on the Bridgeport so we just left it there.

It’s a different model. Not saying it won’t work, just heads up, they’re not the same model anymore.

The one on the HAAS died due to the coolant issues we had, the one on the Bridgeport went into the HAAS, and a new slightly different model was purchased and put on the Bridgeport.

Climb milling is the way to go. But, only if it is on a peripheral cut.
From the picture, I believe your concern is on the flat surfaces which were cut by the bottom of the end mill in a zig-zag fashion. So, to achieve a smooth flat surface, climb mill the peripheral at a slightly higher depth first. Then, offset the peripheral geometry away from the part a little bit and cut the bottom flat surfaces in a spiral fashion.

Well… got most of the chatter marks out of the pieces. The top piece in the top pic was the before.

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It looks like these are milled after the holes? Could you operate on the ways with holddowns instead of using a vise for stability? Wouldn’t do profiles with it but would work for plate pockets.

I used to do a number of stainless plates on the Bridgeport that way

Hanging out there in no mans land turned your part into a diving board. Now that you got your part in long soft jaws you might have milled a step for the part to sit on. Also if you chattered that bad, I’m pretty sure your bit is not at its peak performance.