Drill bit stuck in stud, how to remove? (bit is not broken)

Hey everyone.

I’m trying to change the AC vent cover/register in my kitchen, and it’s been unreasonably difficult.

One side of the register has a stud that the screw has to go into and I’m having to drill the original hole out deeper for my screw to fit. But my drill bit got stuck, and I can’t pull it out with the drill, it’s not broken, it’s just in there too tight and the drill just comes loose around the bit.

What are my options here? I don’t want to break the bit and try to use that screw remover trick, and I don’t want to try buying a nicer drill in the hopes that it will hang on well enough to screw it out. Youtube has been zero help of course, keywords don’t mean anything.

Any advice would be appreciated!

Many times you will need to tighten the bit as best you can, then drill a tad bit deeper and then pull the bit back out with the drill still running forward.

I’ve tried that, I usually pull them back out with it running forward on most things. :frowning:

Your next option is a pair of vice grips. After you retrieve your trashed the bit, toss it. Running it on your drill after it has been chewed up can scar your chuck.

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Use this as an example.

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This is great thank you! I will try it tomorrow

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I am guessing the drill is not reversible. If it were, that would be the way to go, seems to me.
Is it a keyless chuck? and/or is it a clutched drill?
If it’s a keyed chuck, try torqueing the key in all 3 divots to “max”; sometimes this helps get it tightened more evenly (and/or more tightly), and this is why machinists use this technique as a matter of course.
Is it a clutched drill? I’m assuming not, but if it is, and it’s a keyless chuck (which would be really weird for a non-reversible) set the clutch to “max drive” before torqueing it onto the bit for max grip, & try again.
Locking pliers is definitely a last resort; it’s easy to break off the bit with off-center cranking effort, and/or mangle it other ways that aren’t useful e.g. with too-little clamping pressure (drill bits often are hardened, so getting a “bite” can be tough, too). If you get to that, be sure to set it so you’re squeezing for all you’re worth in the clamping step (using a slip-joint plier to apply the squeeze so’s to get a good enough grip isn’t outside the realm of possibility here, but probably overkill). In the video linked above, you can see several flawed techniques, such as too little clamping force (but screws are soft), wrong application of torque (one should attempt to ensure the pliers are at a 90° angle to the bit, so the torque applied to the handle is properly rotating the bit), and improper direction of rotation (ensure the lower pivoting joint is being twisted so as to close the jaws when torque is applied in the preferred direction of rotation, ccw in this case, I think).

This video (at this time) demonstrates the very situation in question, removing a drill bit stuck in wood with a locking plier, though he applies the pliers reversed, in my opinion; the turning torque should be applied to the stationary jaw, but as you can see, this flaw in technique is overcome by the awesomeness of the locking jaw tool

(lots of other info in the earlier part of the video about general use of these tools).
Good luck on getting this squared away. With all this couch-assistance, you can’t fail :laughing:
In all sincerity, I’m certain you will tick this off your list quickly. :+1:

If you are using a keyless chuck drill, give this a shot.

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Mine doesn’t do this! It’s a lower end Ryobi, probably cost like $40-50 a couple of years ago

this is what I have, I wouldn’t call this a keyed chuck just because the key is not separate like on a flex shaft. I don’t know if that’s right. I’m definitely going to get those locking pliers today and try though, my bit is small so it should be easier than what this guy in the video is dealing with :laughing:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-18V-Cordless-3-8-in-Drill-Driver-Kit-with-1-5-Ah-Battery-and-Charger-PDD209K/312462410

That is a keyless chuck, adjustable clutch, reversible drill/driver, per the literature



I’m wondering if Tim’s suggested feature is present…

Well I’ve tried the vise grip but I’m not strong enough to make it work i guess. I’m going to have to repaint my cabinets again now from all the blows it’s taken from these tools.

I didn’t realize it was just stuck in a stud. Take a hammer an hit it pretty hard and then do the drill stuff again. Or you could also purchase a cheap corded drill from harbor freight. The little battery drills are no match for the corded versions unless you spend some serious coin.

A little hammer drill could come in handy around the house. (brick, concrete, etc.)

https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/drills-drivers/corded-drills-drivers.html

I should have an old corded drill around here, let me try that!

Otherwise my next idea is try and cut the drill bit short with a separating disc and put a new hole in the plate to to a new spot, maybe a shorter screw. not sure my separating discs will stand a chance against this bit though