Not really. You have the option to air cut, to run at a reduced percentage of normal speed, etc. The feed and rpm controls are on the remote. The Multicam controls are different and aimed at routine/regular users, but you can do essentially the same things if you take the time to learn how. Probably one of the more significant differences is the coolant system. You are not likely to hurt the bit in a HAAS by going too slow because the coolant flow prevents heat build up. You go too slow in wood and you can ruin a carbide bit in a heartbeat. So, confirm height setting, air cut, etc. to do the pre-checks conceptually like the HAAS procedure described … but when you touch wood with a spinning bit, be ready to run at the correct feed & speed to protect the bit.
Long ago I talked to someone at DMS about doing some IT type work to alarm spoilboard danger. Didn’t ever get it done and then I moved on. All the data is reasonably available to know where the spoilboard is and to know what the maximum cut depth is within the toolpath. I maintain that any number of the techie folks at DMS could grab the system data, add a small number of manual entries (1 or 2) that could be programed as required steps in a startup sequence. Then a simple logic test could be calculated in the background and set off a flashing string of LEDs if the spoilboard was in danger. I don’t think it would be hard to do given what some of the techies have done in other areas. Just need a motivated techie volunteer. Find someone and I’d be willing to advise how to approach it.
I’m putting an ATC spindle on my home router and plan is to register tool depth when tools are installed in the tool holders.
Another approach would be a permanently mounted touch plate in back corner and every job starts with a touch off on that plate. Not sure how that would be done with the Multicam. Reasonably easy with Mach3/4.
You have to hold people responsible. When they have consequences to their actions, they tend to make few mistakes. When it cost someone money, they tend to learn.
We had someone spin up the Haimer on the HAAS. He bought a new one to replace it. That was a $400 mistake, I’m pretty sure he wont be making that same mistake again. He is very aware of how it happened.
Nick is also right, we have everyone do a dry run above the part to see if it looks right. Usually a 2” offset so you can stop the spindle & check it with a 1-2-3 block or measure it easily. Nick is also referring to the Rapid speeds, you shouldn’t be cutting at those rapid speeds.
IF a touch-off is done to determine max depth for that bit installation. The fact that bits can be inserted to any depth in the collet precludes anything automatic except touching off a plate after the bit is installed. If we could automate that then we’d be good, but I rather doubt we have that sort of access in the Multicam environment.
Doubt is OK, just don’t bet money on it.
The Multicam is now off-line until the new reference surface has been installed. All usage moving forward will require the use of a personally supplied spoil board/sled that your work is attached to. If you choose not to procure your own board, a community spoil board will be supplied by the multicam committee. The new rules and penalties are being determined. The Big one is that a zero tolerance policy will be in effect regarding cutting directly on the machine bed. We are expecting to have @Brian to beta test the new setup Monday night. More news to follow.
One thing I’ve noticed is that the reference surface is not “flat” in relation to the spindle. I’m religious about setting the Z limit before I start a job, but this often results in part of the workpiece being perfectly cut and part of it not quite being cut all the way through (or the opposite–going into the spoil board–depending on where I place the sensor when setting the Z limit).
Regarding a personal spoil board, I have tried that too, but I find that the vacuum (even with only one zone enabled) isn’t strong enough to hold down most work pieces (I typically use acrylic sheet) through both the reference surface and the personal spoil board. Any thoughts or suggestions on that?
Status update:
The phenolic substrate was found to be less than flat. It was up to an 1/8” out of flat in multiple locations. @mdredmond has been surfacing the table for most of the day. We have used up all the surfacing inserts and have requested more from @IanLee . The next step is drill and epoxy the threaded brass inserts. At this point are on hold until the cutting inserts arrive.
Please do not touch or turn off the machine. It will be costly if we lose the Z axis zero.
Picture from earlier today.
I think maybe you left out a “DO NOT” in there.
There has been a lot of prep work and testing take place before flattening of the substrate could begin. Basically all of planning and grunt work before the actual machining could begin. Shout out to @yashsedai for clearing out some of the hurdles we were having to jump.
I hope this short explanation will give everyone an idea of the high spots we were all trying to deal with. Leveling the subtable takes a very long time. Think about sitting for hours watching the cutter go around and around, being ready to hit the E-stop at any moment. That is what @mdredmond did all day long. This picture is after a couple of passes of the cutter. Maybe .004 - .007 inches. You can’t cut too deep or you risk damaging the phenolic or the cutter inserts.
This is very similar to the process required to flatten a live edge slab. Yes, when you learn the Multicam, you can make your own table with the equipment at hand. I expect we will have classes teaching members how to get it done.
After several more hours we are getting closer to being able to drill, epoxy, and align the brass threaded inserts that will engage the nylon hex head cap screws that will be holding the new LDF table surface in place.
The white areas (factory surface) signifies where the cutter hasn’t touched. Similar to when you take a pencil and scribbled across you wood prior to sanding. The all of the pencil make is gone, all of the wood has been sanded.
Side bar: The round holes are what is attached tyhe vacuum lines in each zone. There is a valve below each area that activated when the zone handles are pulled. The grid is contained within each zone.
Note: See the charcoal areas in the picture below? Yes, that was a fire. Actually there have been two fires. These were caused when creating (drilling) holes incorrectly. Both of these could have been absolute disasters. In these cases the phenolic melted away.
We are at a stand still until the new inserts arrive and we can begin day five of the project.
More to come.
This is a lot of work, thanks for getting it done!
I still think we should consider trying composite nails for work holding for when the vacuum doesn’t work on some projects. https://raptornails.com/
Proper work holding will probably be a valuable part of the training we do in the future (I’m guilty of lazy work holding as well).
After we get the machine calibrated, work holding becomes the top technical issue. We would like to see some great tooling developed.
The base table will now include a hard x,y start position in the form of bench dogs. The work sled just slides into position and all is great. No more guessing if your work is straight. Want to route on both side of a job? Now you can.
We expect to have capabilities like the following. We are diligently working towards supporting members creating their own custom work holding sleds. Hey, we can’t think of everything.
Woodpecker’s slab flattening mill $1099.00 - not sure what they sell that only costs $17:)
How about a cutting board drip tray sled that doesn’t require much CAD?
What about sleds and programs to create holiday yard signs?
Another idea, since the sky is the limit.
Have you ever wanted to to create a formed plastic item? make the mold on the Multicam and then head over to the PIG SIG to create your molded item.
Want T-tracks in a sled, go for it. Want to nail or screw your work to the sled, the sled is yours, why not?
Of course just holding down some baltic birch plywood never goes out of style.
Our question is this. Why can’t we make this machine so simple to learn that anyone motivated can use it? Do we really have to settle for 80% of the people who take the course not ever taking the test? Of those who do take the test, most never using the machine again? Why not figure out things we can make for other non profits so authorized members can have something to make for a good cause and learn new skills?
We really hope the Multicam SIG will become as valuable to DMS as possible.
Training is currently being revamped, although it still lagging a little bit behind the machine updates.
P.S. If you are machining plastics, then plastics (PIG SIG) is the place to go. It is next door to the machine shop. They have dedicated tools just for plastics. Table saw, band saw, CNC machine, bending gear, almost everything you might need.
P.S.S. When you see @IanLee (wood shop chairman) please let him know that you are looking forward to another great resource from woodshop.
Four.
(and a few more characters)
This. In the very near future there will be a requirement that no cutting be done directly on the machine vacuum boards. They will only be used to hold down your own sled/jig/board to which your work is attached.
Not sure how that would stop this. If your setting up the cutter incorrectly, won’t it just then go thru your jig and into the table anyway?
Trying to ask an honest question here… Please don’t flame me… I want to know more and I’ve wanted to take a class on it for quite some time.
Yup. But that is less likely. (Based on history.)
Most the the through cutting I’ve seen would not have gone through a 1/2” auxiliary spoilboard. It cuts as deep as you tell it to and even warns you that you’re going to cut into the spoilboard! You get a better bottom finish on your work and less “post-processing” if you go all the way through it (and slightly into the spoilboard). For these reasons I suspect some of it is deliberate.
Some of it clearly isn’t deliberate and could have been caused by uneven, loosely attached vacuum boards.
Another issue is that after damaging the boards, some well-meaning members repaired the damage with water putty and that’s great, but after that the entire table needs to be surfaced. That rarely happened.
In the end, addressing the individual problems isn’t going to happen. There is no practical way to do that other than kicking everyone off the machine and forcing retraining for all, which isn’t fair and probably wouldn’t help anyway.
For the new to be machine operators keeping up with this saga, I tend to think of three distinct steps when using the Multicam.
This is just a basic version of a workflow.
-
CAD - Drawing and dimensioning your item to be milled/cut out in Vcarve.
-
CAM - Selecting lines/elements in your drawing and assigning bits and depths you want it cut to. Saved to a file for each different router bit. (Vcarve operation)
-
CUT - Load your wood, open a CAM file from the dongle, set your max depth of cut, surface height of your wood, and other required steps you will learn.
This is not rocket science. It doesn’t even require a 100 IQ. It does require that you are sober, well rested, read and follow the check list, and not turning your back on the running machine while being able to smash the emergency off button.
This is a very simplified workflow.
But the vacuum will work for all projects. Because you’re going to put your project on a spoilboard of sufficient size that the vacuum will work on it. How you attach your work to your spoilboard is up to you 
and composite brads are a fine choice.
I have found that vacuum still pulls through a 1/2” MDF auxiliary spoilboard but it’s obviously not as strong as it would be without the extra board. It’s suitable for larger (> ~18x18”) sheets of material. Smaller than that and you will want to pin your work down or pin down side blocks to lock your piece in the X and Y.
I use a 23 gauge pin nailer and it works splendidly. Obviously must be aware of where the pins are.
Yes, people will hit the steel pins with the carbide bits ever so often. The good news is that we are moving to the BYOB (bring your own bits) model over the next few weeks. If a member is day dreaming, it will be their bit that bites the dust:) Most serious makers already bring their own consumables since you never know what will be broken when they visit. We are working on a solution to get folks started with a couple of bits without breaking the bank. CNC bits are not necessarily the same as the router bits you purchase from the big box. A bit of planning is required to use industrial equipment. Amazon prime is a great resource. All of this will be covered in the revamped training program. For existing “current” users (not just checked out), we will have a series of abridged workshops to review the new setup and new rules.
There will be a lot more user control available moving forward, but also more user responsibility required.