I instructed him to attach 230V to it and test each end with his tongue. The one where he feels nothing (invariably the second one) is ground.
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Thanks for doing all this work!
Pretty please remember to return the #7 drill bit. That was the only #7 that Machine Shop had and it’s a commonly used bit.
Too late. Just sold on eBay.
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It is hidden away so no one can find it except those with the super decoder ring. I just ordered a couple for the Multicam. They will be in on Wednesday, ain’t Amazon neat?. Have no idea if they suck, but they will probably be able to cut DMF okay. I’ll place the bit back in the morning, inside the lower index.
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Great work guys! Is the machine up and running ready for use or is there anything else that needs to be done?
Not quite. We need to attach the two rear vacuum boards, then surface the whole thing. We were exhausted yesterday so took a break. We will be back at it tonight.
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No worries! Not judging at all. Thank you guys so much for getting this done, it will make a huge difference!
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Update:
Second panel is installed.
Beginning to drill and counter bore back panel. Afterwards we will seal and screw down to the phenolic sub-surface.
Interesting side note:
When the cnc touch pad was set on the surface with the vacuum turned on, it stuck.
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Update:
The new vacuum surface is now sealed and screwed to the phenolic. It will still need to be edge sealed around the perimeter of each vacuum zone.
The silicone requires several hours to cure before we can surface the machine. We are still several steps away from completion, but very close to an awesome machine.
@themitch22 will be checking the tram before we go much further.
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Latest news:
The super CNC minion is on the case. We are running a few surfacing tests.
After testing, we and @themitch22 have concurred that the machine requires tramming.
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Moving tutorial to the next process required to restore the MultiCAM to all its glory
If we have to replace these again, I recommend adding a colorant to the putty used to fill that wording. Then is will stand out more. Thank you to everyone involved in making this happen.
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Completely agree. We didn’t realize how bad the contrast would end up being with that bondo. In the future we will use water putty and put red food coloring in the water.
It’s a lot more visible in person. The phone does something to the contrast.
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Knowing the tolerances you guys achieved I don’t know if the water in the ink would cause the board to swell from a sharpie, but I saw it in person it’s pretty noticeable but maybe a black sharpie border around it to make it truly unmissable, but I was in the shop when a portion of the final work was done and not only was it time consuming a lot of physical and mental work was put into it, so even though I don’t use it, mad props to the guys who got it taken care of!
@yashsedai @jast Shouldn’t we lock this thread and move forward with the next one (Tram it Sam)? Although entertaining at times, this has been a crude attempt at documenting the process without being totally boring. We are now discussing operator interface and work holding issues. It has been suggested that we break it down even more granularly. Thanks
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Maybe… Usually the call of OP.
Technically, the documenting of the work interrupted a reprimand of mess-leaving doers of damage…
Threads often meander on Talk. It is not necessarily a negative…
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I’m good either way.