Dallas Makerspace Show & Tell - November 2018

I try to teach an end grain cutting board class about once a month. Will likely post one for December soon once I confirm schedules. Everyone makes an edge-grain board in class, which is what @texantrinity made in her post, then as a class we convert an edge grain to end grain so you can convert the board you made in class to an end-grain on your own time.

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Thanks! Iā€™ll try to look it up this week.

wondering where did you get your film developed and scanned?

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Iā€™ve used Garland Camera. Other options include Donā€™s Used Photo Equipment and Texas Darkroom, with the latter also developing slide film at their location, as well as for Donā€™s.

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It wasnā€™t done at DMS, but one of our own VECTOR members was highlighted on Intel Developer Zone Blog!

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Made this little hedghog coaster set out of plywood and the laser. Downloaded the files from thingiverse and then modified the template from 4mm to 5.2mm for the slightly thicker plywood I purchased.

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That is adorable! Curious how it holds up to being used. I use a LOT of ice. Like an embarrassing amount of ice in my drinks, so lots of condensate builds up. Coasters hate me! :wink:

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With some minor changes that would look like an armadillo. Just pointing that out for fellow Texans.

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Remember, to be authentic the legs would need to be pointing up into the air.

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You mean like this ?

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I havenā€™t tested it for condensation because my tumbler is double lined. Iā€™ll put ice water in a pint glass and test it out later. It wouldnā€™t be too difficult to make the spine coasters out of cork and keep the frame plywood tough.

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If you put a coat of lacquer on it it will be water proof.

She did, I loaned her a can of spray lacquer.

Can you get marine plywood that thin?

A waterproof coaster is not necessarily a good thing. If the water builds up on the coaster and then spills off onto the tabletop, then the coaster hasnā€™t protected the surface, which is its sole purpose.

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I suppose one could cut the coaster parts out of thick felt and the body parts out of wood. . .

Iā€™m late to the party but Iā€™ve been wondering if you could do this. Looks like they turned out great!

What parts of this process gave you troubles? Iā€™m assuming you used a release agent on the mold, yes? Iā€™m not an experienced mold maker but I wanna try nowā€¦

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The first mold worked beautifully but there were a few minor things. This was the biggestā€¦

Separating the halves. The first two molds had ā€œgrab handlesā€ that were simply too small and there was no way to apply a lever (like a blade screwdriver). Since then Iā€™ve added comfortable handles and a landing for a blade screwdriver. The landing needs some further refinement. If the mold is going to be used many times it really needs a way to use a few bolts to apply even pressure so the mold is less likely to be damaged.

No. Silicone rubber does not adhere to ABS. The ā€œstickā€ is purely mechanical which can be lessened / eliminated with a smoother surface (better quality 3D print and/or acetone vapour bath). I went with fast-and-rough so the molds have lots of ridges and tiny holes. The silicone rubber gets down in those tiny spaces forming linking threads between the mold and the part. A little elbow grease (or a small lever) is all thatā€™s needed to get the part out.

If you can round up two more interested people I will try to make a class.

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3 posts were merged into an existing topic: Dallas Makerspace Show & Tell - December 2018